9 February 2022

Quotas and (provisional) Invitees for the USA World Games

The IFSC has presented the invite quota qualification system for the World Games, which will take place in Birmingham, Alabama (USA) July 14th-16th. The Games are situated right in between the Chamonix and Briancon Lead World Cups. In total, 72 climbers will be invited, with 12 male and 12 female climbers competing in each discipline. National federations will be limited to sending just two athletes.

It's worth noting that Tomoa Narasaki seems to be out, even though he was #2 at the Boulder World Championships, as Japan will have already filled their quota. Other big contenders that are likely to miss out are Alberto Gines Lopez, Nathaniel Coleman, and Miho Nonaka. It would appear that only Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra as well as six female competitors from the Tokyo Olympics will be invited based on the criteria and our assessment, and that all will accept their invitations.

Provisional Lead Invitees
World Championship Invites: Jakob Schubert AUT and Seo Chaehyon KOR
World Cup 2021 Invites: Stefano Ghisolfi ITA, Sean Bailey USA and Masahiro Higuchi JPN, Janja Garnbret SLO, Natalia Grossman USA and Laura Rogora ITA
Youth World Championship Invites: Hamish McArthur GBR, Haruki Uemura JPN, Nonoha Kume JPN and Sara Copar SLO
Africa Invitees: Mel Janse Van Rensburg RSA, Lauren Mukheibar RSA
European 2020 Invitees: Sascha Lehmann SUI, Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
Pan Am Invitees: Benjamin Vargas CHI, Cloe Coscoy USA
Asia Invitees: Min Hyunbin KOR, Tanii Natsuki JPN(Japan has filled their male quota)
Oceania Invitees: Harrison Cambell AUS, Jessica Pilz AUT (No female from Oceania has participated)
Host USA Invitees: USA's country quota male is still to be selected, and the female invite will default to Dinara Fakritdinova RUS as the USA has filled their female quota.

Provisional Boulder Invitees
World Championship Invites: Kokoro Fujii JPN, Natalia Grossman USA
World Cup Invites: Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN, Adam Ondra CZE, Sean Bailey USA, Janja Garnbret SLO, Oriane Bertone FRA, Brooke Raboutou USA
Youth World Championship Invites: Hamish McArtur GBR, Hannes Van Duysen BEL, Nailé Meignan FRA, Sara Copar SLO
European 2020 Invitees: Jernej Kruder SLO, Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
Pan Am Invites: Joe Goodacre USA, Valentina Aguado ARG
Africa Invites: Mel Janse Van Rensberg RSA, Lauren Mukheibar RSA
Oceania Invitees: Cambell Harrison AUS, Grace Growley AUS
Asia Invites: Lee Minyoung KOR, Futaba Ito JPN (Japan has filled their male quota)
Host Invites: Manuel Cornu FRA Default to Camilla Moroni ITA (USA has filled their quota)

Noteworthy is that the program is very intense with the Bouldering qualifying and final 15/7 and then Lead qualifying and final 16/7. Furthermore, the Lead World Cup in Chamonix finishes 10/7 and then the next Lead WC starts in Briancon on 22/7. It just might be that some athletes focusing on the Lead World Cup will skip the World Games or just take part in Lead. In case of an unused quota place, the next best athlete in the same event will get an invitation. As an example, if Viktoriia Meshkova skips bouldering, Chloe Caulier will get her spot.
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