"Triple double" incl. 8A (+) flash by Allison Vest

Allison Vest has set a new standard by, in a day, flashing Diaphnous Sea 8A (+) and Loaded With Power (7C+) as well as doing . (c) Alex Johnson

"A super good day out in Hueco. My first triple-double day. Was cool to try hard on some flash attempts.
I watched a lot of videos of diaphanous and knew it was my style. I had also been told it would be a good one to try to flash. I warmed up for a bit and was nervous to pull on and try but, AJ told me to just do it and that was the push I needed!"

Interestingly, during the last four months the 26-year-old has done ten boulders 8A+ to 8B+, which can be compared with a total of five previously. The reasons for this great progress are that she has stopped focusing on comps, and that leg injuries in early 2021 made her train lots of lock-offs and hangboarding. On Insta she has just published her 8B+ send.

How did you prepare for the flashes?
I watched a lot of videos of Diaphanous and knew it was my style. I had also been told it would be a good one to try to flash. I warmed up for a bit and was nervous to pull on and try but, AJ told me to just do it and that was the push I needed! We’ve been here for two weeks but I only now feel like I’m really getting used to the climbing.

How long do you plan to stay in Hueco and what is next?
I think I’m done climbing this trip. Only a couple of days left and I’ve got some body tweaks that are making me nervous. Might play around a little on the last day but mostly support crew for AJ!