Sam Weir, with three 8C+’ to his name, has sent The Lion's Share (8C) in Brione. ”Nice diverse climbing touching a bit of all styles. Crimps lead to foot tension culminate to La BAF.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what is ”La BAF”?
I tried it for the first time early October with low expectations with my friends Clem and Nina. After a thorough warm up I flashed into the easier 8A at the end. Falling from a bit of excitement and confusion. Honestly, a bit sad because had I done things a bit more seriously I think I really would have had a good chance to flash it. Or not. It’s a game I have never really played as it always seems dangerous for my fingers. I came back last week after a tantalizing close attempt the day before on my project and managed to get it done. “La BAF” is just the big slap at the end 😅 as the French would say hehe.

Leo Cea, with four 9a’s under his belt, has done Victimas Perez (9a) Margalef. His uncle Javier Cea has helped out getting some comments from the 12-year-old.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the 9a ascent?
We took advantage of my fall school break to travel to Margalef with my dad and two of my brothers. I was super excited to try Víctimas Pérez again and to climb in the different sectors of Margalef. During the week, I spent a few days climbing at Racó de la Finestra to work on Víctimas Pérez, but I wasn’t sure if I was going to send it on this trip.

On our last day in Margalef, it started to rain, so we decided to go back to Racó de la Finestra to retrieve our gear and give Víctimas Pérez a couple more tries — just to remember the moves and record a video so I could study them later.

On that last try, I was really surprised because I started feeling great and everything was just flowing. Suddenly, I realized I had made it through the crux without falling, so I kept focusing, kept enjoying the route… and then, all of a sudden, I reached the top! I couldn’t believe it — I had sent it! That last attempt, the one we were recording just to have a video of the moves, is the one you can see on YouTube."

Lucija Tarkuš, who last week sent Kingslayer (8c), has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. In September the 22-year-old Slovenian was number eight in a World Cup and the last four weeks she has done five routes 8c and harder. (c) Mateusz Haladaj, who comments.

”As a witness of her attempts on Martin Krpan (that I also climbed in 2010) I must admit she climbs with incredible control and precision, worth mentioning without kneepads.”

Can you tell us more about you joining the 9a club?
After I did Konec mira (8c), I knew Martin Krpan was possible, because I had already done all the moves. But coming to Konec Mira feeling more tired, I wasn’t sure how it would go, since it already felt hard. Then I gave it a couple of tries over two days in bad conditions, and even though I always fell in the middle of the crux, I knew I had it in me.

So I came back last weekend, and the weather was great. I felt super happy to send it on my fourth go of the day. Climbing 9a has been my childhood dream, so I’m flattered and stoked to finally be part of the 9a club.

Han Seuran, who last autumn successfully climbed Puro Dreaming (8c+), has now, after only six sessions, completed Catharsis (8B+) at Shiobara. Back in 2011, Tomoko Ogawa sent it and made history as the first woman to reach 8B+. The Dai Koyamada line is a 10-meter roof featuring around 25 moves, and Seuran has shared an Instagram video of her ascent.

The Korean climber is a former competition athlete who reached the finals of the Lead World Cup three times in 2011.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was my husband [9b climber Hyunbin Min] who suggested this route, saying Japan would be a good project since it’s close to Korea. When I first saw the video, I realized the moves were exactly the kind I enjoy and do well with. So I decided that even if it took me several years, I would take on the challenge — and this time, I chose Shiobara.

At first, it was so difficult that I had to break down each move one by one. I wasn’t even sure if I could link them together. My initial goal was just to connect the moves, but day by day, the holds started to feel better. Gradually, the moves began to feel easier too.

Two days before returning to Korea, I achieved my best attempt yet. That made me feel a bit impatient — I really wanted to send it this time.

The day before I left, around 2 p.m., I fell just before the top. After a two-hour rest, the sun had set and the humidity rose, making me anxious and less confident. But I kept telling myself, “I can do this. I will do this.” And on my final attempt, I finally sent it.

Laura Rogora had an amazing day in Lourmarin last week, onsighting two 8c’s, one 8b and one 8a.

Can you tell us more about this special day?
It was a really unusual day. I wasn't planning to climb hard at all - I just wanted to spend a relaxed day with friends and have some fun on easy routes.

But when I got to the crag and saw the lines, I couldn't resist. I warmed up on Playboy (8a). When I tried Pâques Express (8c), I felt completely relaxed and had no expectations, which somehow made everything click. I just enjoyed climbing in the moment, and somehow I managed to onsight two 8c routes in one day. The first one went down quite easily while the second, Free fight intégral (8c), was harder and it was a big fight especially on the first pitch. At the end of the day I onsighted Vous êtes des animaux (8b).

It was such a special day - starting casually with friends, then unexpectedly reaching something I didn't even plan for. Honestly, it still feels a bit surreal!

What about fear of long falls and failure during onsight? What goes through your mind?
I'm not afraid of falling - even when onsighting, I sometimes skip quickdraws if can't clip them. But I do feel anxious about making a mistake, especially if I've already done a hard section and don't want to ruin everything.

For onsighting, I think it's about finding the right balance: being decisive, but also taking a moment to think about the best way to move, instead of just following instinct all the time.

How was the mental game on Free fight intégral (8c)?
On the first 8b+ pitch, there was a move I had hard time figuring out, so I spent some time feeling the holds and finding out the best solution. Then I went back to rest and approached it with full commitment. After that, I knew I could give it my all, but I had already spent a lot of energy on that section and was a bit tired, so I knew I couldn't hesitate on the next part. That section was really close to my limit.

When I reached the chain of the 8b+, a bit of anxiety started creeping in. On the last part, the holds were very humid, which added both difficulty and a bit of fear of making a mistake.

What is your next, more outdoors?
No. I came back to Italy and on Monday I started training for the next season. Maybe I'll do a week at Christmas but I still don't know if and where.

Adam Ondra has flashed Dave Graham’s classical Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. ”Amazing moment, everything was perfect. Thanks Dylan and Marci for the beta. For the grade, definitely not the hardest 8C, but low-end 8C seems to be consensus probably. Hard to tell when you flash with perfect execution.” (c) Crimp Films

It is the same boulder Yannick Flohé flashed in July and later Jules Marchaland became the second climber to flash an 8C, with Power of Now direct.

Two days later, the 32-year-old quickly sent Big nose (8C). ”Absolute masterpiece! Very very good flash go, last second decision of changing the beta cost me the flash. For the grade, probably similar to Foundation Edge?”

Previously, Adam has flashed 22 boulders 8B or 8B+ and he is the All Time High number one also in the flash ranking game.

Janja Garnbret comments her one session ticklist in Brione on Instagram ”Bad skin means playing on some easier classics.”

Vecchio Leone (8B), Amber (8B), Versace (8B), Fake Pamplemousse (8A) and Frogger (8A).

Over the past three weeks, the 26-year-old has previously sent six boulders graded between 8B and 8C and flashed Puro Dreaming (8c+).

Chaehyun Seo, who was runner up in the Lead World Cup in 2025, has completed Papichulo (9a+), Joe Blau (8c+), two 8c’s and a flash of El Gran Blau (8b+) in Oliana. The 22-year-old won four WC’s in 2019 and became World Champion in 2021. The next year she sent La Rambla (9a+).

Can you tell us more about your trip and the process behind Papichulo?
I went to Santa Linya last year, but there was too much rain, so I couldn’t climb at all. I accidentally(?) ended up in Oliana and tried Papichulo, but it was also super foggy and humid, so I just worked out all the moves, and the trip was done.

So I came again this year to work on the route. I arrived here on 10/31, and on my fifth climbing day, I felt quite good, but I didn’t have full certainty.

On the sixth climbing day, my first try was not so bad, but not enough. On the second try, I suddenly almost got the last hold of the final crux, and I thought I still had enough energy.

I knew it would be hard to send it on the third try because I had already gone to the top twice in one day, but I really wanted to try again. So I tried at 5:20, almost after sunset. I felt less powerful than on the second try, but I focused on my breathing—and I made it!

How long will you stay and what is next?
I will leave here on 11/28, and I want to try Mamichula. I can’t predict how it will go 😅, and I also want to try many other 9a+ routes.

What are your competition and outdoor plans for 2026?
Mm, I think I’ll focus on lead, but I will also compete in boulders too, but not all! First comps, outdoors for vacation like this year.

Andrea Lostia di Santa Sofia, who the last 12 months has sent his four first 8c+’, has made the first ascent of Terzo Tempo (9a) in Sardinia. Two days later, Giorgio Tomatis made the first repeat.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Andrea: This means a lot to me, when I started climbing outside three years ago the highest grade ever climbed by a Sardinien climber was 8c. Last year I managed to push that half a grade further with my ascent of La Novena Puerta (8c+) and some dayd ago I finally managed to break into the ninth grade, and what's even better is my first 9a is in Sardinia!

The first day on it it was clear the first boulder was the real deal, initially we weren't sure it would be possible but try after try we combined our efforts to crack the complex beta, the final solution involved a very technical kneebar we used to shuffle our hands between the only three holds on the roof, a total of eleven moves on two meters of rock.

Giorgio is an amazing climber and his experience far exceeds mine. When one of us couldn't refine the beta anymore, the other found something more hidden in the complexity of the problem, without him I surely wouldn't have found the solution we came up with. He also made me realise my tactics were off, I started resting more and better and every detail adds up in the end.

Giorgio: I came to Sardinia with the idea of trying a hard project with Andrea. We spent a lot of time figuring out the beta. After that, Andrea told me the sequence of the second part, which he had already tried before I arrived in Sardinia. I think all this has sped up the process a lot, anyway the route is really beautiful and aesthetic, the first boulder is really hard, and then there is an endurance part ending with a powerful boulder to hit a two-finger pocket, It’s always a good experience to try a route together!

Sean Bailey reports, via an Instagram video without a caption, that he has made it to the top of Arrival of the Birds (9A) in Chironico. Aidan Roberts made the FA about 18 months ago, and Sean has now done the first repeat. The 29-year-old, who stands 164 cm tall, retired from the IFSC competition scene, which included three World Cup golds, after the 2023 season. He has previously done the FA of Shaolin (9A) and Alphane (9A), as well as Bibliography (9b+).