Seb Bouin, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. After having equipped and discovered it in 2019, tried it for 6 months in 2020, and for 6 months in 2021, I finally managed to clip the belay this spring during my second trip. I've spent over 150 days in it (close to 200 I think), and tried the route over 250 times. It's the most challenging project I've ever done. It's the hardest route I've ever tried and climbed in my climbing career. This route marks a milestone in my climbing life." (c) Lena Drapella/Black Diamond

"It is clear that it is a risk to say 9c. There is always the risk that someone will downgrade the route later. Especially with the idea that there is only one more roiute in the world with the same degree. It is difficult to be categorical then. I have never climbed a route that is as difficult as DNA and therefore my degree proposal is 9c, but other climbers must give consensus. That is exactly what makes our sport so wonderful, we do not need judges, we are judges ourselves. It is wonderful but also sensitive in situations like this, at the absolute highest level. That is why I would like other top climbers to come here and test DNA", says Seb.

Alex Megos reports on Insta that he, beside doing his "nemesis" 9a, Victimas Perez, also has done three 9a+ routes. "One of the 9a+'s was the FA of "Carlota's Journey". It's a combination of Carlota (8c) into the top of a new line bolted by @tom_bolger. Crux is a deadpoint into a mono. Margalef at its finest👌🏼." In total, the German has now done some 100 routes 9a and harder which is second most in the world after Adam Ondra. (c) Esteban Lahoz

What were the other two 9a+ routes you did?
The first one was Samfaina and the third one was another combination. It's called Carlota la Colombiana.

Did you try any other harder lines that you plan to return for?
Always. 😂 But I didn't try anything harder very much. I focused on a few 9a and 9a+ (routes).

What is the next comp you plan to do?
The next comp is not decided yet. Innsbruck I'll do for sure though. Bouldering and Lead.

The second stage of the Boulder World Cup takes place this weekend in Seoul. South Korea has 20 athletes participating, followed by Japan with 16 and USA and France 10. The big stars missing out are: Janja Garnbret, Andrea Kümin (injured), Jakob Schubert, Adam Ondra, Colin Duffy and Alex Megos. The semi and finals take place on Sunday, (UTC+9).

11:00 AM Men's and Women's Boulder semifinals
5:00 PM Women's Boulder final
Followed by Men's Boulder final

Also, the second stage of the European Boulder Cup takes place this weekend in Brixen, Italy. Some big names that would have had great chances for at least semi in Seoul, but have chosen to compete in Brixen, are: Stefano Ghisolfi, Jernej Kruder, Simon Lorenzi, Nicolas Collin, Martin Stranik, Yannick Flohe, Sandra Lettner, Eliska Adamowska and Ievgeniia Kazbekova. The latter is from Ukraine and they are sending seven athletes to Italy. The semi and finals take place on Sunday, (UTC+2).

10:00 AM Men's and Women's semifinals
4:00 PM Woman's and Men's Finals

Advertorial: Global fashion brand Zara and climbing shoe company Tenaya are teaming up for a product collaboration, slated to launch 5 May 2022. The limited-release women’s capsule includes clothing items, an approach shoe, and a climbing shoe. Tenaya athlete Svana Bjarnason is the model and image of the campaign.

From Oscar-winning documentary films and reality shows to competitions and the Olympic Games, climbing is experiencing a surge of events that bring it closer to the masses. This collaboration points to a growing trend of rock climbing becoming “fashionable” in the mainstream, particularly for large retailers such as Dior, which partnered with climber Margo Hayes to promote their new Dior Vibe athleisure line, and Agent Provocateur, which used climber Sasha DiGiulian and other athletes in a lingerie advertising campaign.

Now, Zara embarks into the vertical realm with this new release. Previously, Zara has collaborated with Everlast, Kappa, Kassl Editions, Susan Fang, PlayStation, Purple magazine, Ader Error, and TRX, among others, but this is the first time the brand—or any large fashion retailer—has presented a collection of climbing products, actually designed for climbing.

Millennials (ages 25 to 40), particularly women, are fueling the growth of climbing, and the generation now accounts for 65 percent of climbers. While once viewed as a male-dominated activity, climbing demographics are also shifting to become more even. More women are interested in climbing than ever before, and will continue to be a larger proportion in the years to come.

Svana Bjarnason, the face of the collaboration, represents these shifting demographics. The 30-year-old French climber, with Icelandic origins, started out as a youth competition climber before shifting her focus outdoors.

Since its inception in 1997, Tenaya has experienced steady growth to become a globally-recognized climbing brand, now available in over 60 countries. Tenaya has pushed the limits of possibility in recent decades, from Josune Bereziartu becoming first woman in the world to climb 9a (5.14d) to Alex Megos making the first 9a onsight and first ascent of Bibliographie (9b+/5.15c).

For Tenaya, this collaboration is recognition of the constant effort in product development, and the consistency and coherence of many years. Tenaya has become a world reference on climbing shoes and a brand that embodies the essence of climbing. It is thanks to the authenticity of the product and the brand that Zara collaborates with Tenaya to set the trend.

Dylan Chuat, who was #11 in the Euro Championship in 2020, has repeated Adam Ondra's Super Finale (9a) in Rawyl and it took him just three sessions. "Just amazing as a route! Small crux at the bottom with a small arch then big movement not hard with only pleasure until a second major physical crux on a flat grip and then two jumps after some ruler to tighten at 35-40m from the ground it's just ouffff." (c) Rémi Degenne

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done four 9a's but just one 8B+ before arriving to Fontainebleau, has done No Kpote Only 8C (+). It was put up by Charles Albert, barefoot, as a 9A. Later it has been repeated twice and 8C+/9A as well as 8C/+ have been suggested.

"A great climb and a super productive day! Can't say anything about the grade cause never tried a proper 8C before, so I'll just wait till the grade settles))) I also had my own beta cause couldn't reach the gaston from the heel, so I went down to it with my hands and stood up from the undercling crimp next to it. Would be sick if someone strong could check it out and give it a grade) video coming soon!"

Jana Messner has done her third 8c, in Bus di vela. "I tried it one year ago once (it was the first 8c I have tried), but it felt like a lot of work and at that moment I wasn't really motivated for a bigger project. This year I returned to the crag and it went surprisingly good the first time. On the first day of trying, I fell at the crux at the beginning but climbed from that point to the top. I returned two days later and sent the whole route🙌 ."

What is your climbing background?
I grew up in Villnöss, South Tyrol and joined the competition team in Brixen, when I was six, and the South Tyrolean team a few years later. I was part of the National youth team of Italy during my youth categories and took part in World Youth Championships, European Championships and Italian Championships. I was able to win the youth Italian Championship in Lead in 2019 and make some semifinals at World and European Youth Championships in Lead. During my competition years, I realised that climbing outdoors fulfils me with way more joy than competitions could do and I started climbing outdoors at the age of 14.

Are you related to the legend Reinhold Messner?
He actually grew up in the same village as I did and my Grandma, was somehow related to his mother. But basically, every second person in Villnöß is called Messner😂.

What are your summer plans?
It will be the first summer in a while where I will be at home quite a lot...I'm going to work at the climbing gym and make the climbing camps for the kids...in July I will go to south France (probably Ceuse), after that 2 weeks in Switzerland working on a mountain hut, then finishing the instructor for sport climbing...and the rest climbing I guess...really looking forward to climb a lot in Landro, South Tyrol this summer😁

Joe Kinder has done the FA of Tiger Kween (9a). "Bolted by my wife Lindsey and one of the more unique routes I've done. VERY unconventional climbing. Goodbye cave... you've been good to me physically and mentally. I LOVE ROCK CLIMBING! There’s not a whole lot of pump which I kind of enjoyed. And the difficulty is in two different bolder problems. One is around V8 (7B+) and the other one is about V12 (8A+). "

Bolted by your wife, what?
Lindsey saw the line, aided up it and got one of the best FA’s I’ve had the pleasure of climbing. It took her about a day. There weren’t many adjustments either which was so nice. She has climbed up to 8b and bolted some ten lines. We were both developing more at that cliff during the pandemic. It was a place we could hide out and be alone and we put up some amazing routes. Basically, the two I sent recently are siblings. Mammajama and now Tiger Kween. (We will follow up with an article about Lindsey's bolting, as it's great to see more women developing routes and crags ).

BJ Tilden has done the FA of Monkey From Hell (9a) in Sinks Canyon (WY), which is a sit start link up to an 8b+/c route he did in 2005. Insta video of the added sit start. The 41-year-old has previously done seven 9a FAs.

"The full line is 25 moves with no stopping. I didn’t even wear a chalk bag haha. There are actually three starts. The original 8b+/c starts standing on the granite Boulder at the base and reaching high to a slot.

Start Standing on the ground adds a three-move V11 (8A) to get to the slot, 8c+.
The sit start adds a 7 move V9 (7C) to get to the stand start, 9a."

How do you stay in shape at 40+? How much do you train?
Honestly not sure. Just staying psyched! I usually only climb two days a week, but I am a full-time carpenter which is great cross-training.