
2 May 2022
Monkey From Hell 9a FA by BJ Tilden (41)
BJ Tilden has done the FA of Monkey From Hell (9a) in Sinks Canyon (WY), which is a sit start link up to an 8b+/c route he did in 2005. Insta video of the added sit start. The 41-year-old has previously done seven 9a FAs.
"The full line is 25 moves with no stopping. I didnโt even wear a chalk bag haha. There are actually three starts. The original 8b+/c starts standing on the granite Boulder at the base and reaching high to a slot.
Start Standing on the ground adds a three-move V11 (8A) to get to the slot, 8c+.
The sit start adds a 7 move V9 (7C) to get to the stand start, 9a."
How do you stay in shape at 40+? How much do you train?
Honestly not sure. Just staying psyched! I usually only climb two days a week, but I am a full-time carpenter which is great cross-training.
"The full line is 25 moves with no stopping. I didnโt even wear a chalk bag haha. There are actually three starts. The original 8b+/c starts standing on the granite Boulder at the base and reaching high to a slot.
Start Standing on the ground adds a three-move V11 (8A) to get to the slot, 8c+.
The sit start adds a 7 move V9 (7C) to get to the stand start, 9a."
How do you stay in shape at 40+? How much do you train?
Honestly not sure. Just staying psyched! I usually only climb two days a week, but I am a full-time carpenter which is great cross-training.
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
8 August 2016
9a FA BJ Tilden
BJ Tilden has done his second 9a FA, Mutation in Wild Iris. "This monster climbs the whole rodeo wave from right to left. A grand total of 80 moves on perfect sโฆ
27 June 2019
Black Sheep 9a FA by BJ Tilden (38)
BJ Tilden has done Black Sheep which is his fourth 9a FA and also his fifth 8c+ or harder FA at Wolf Point.
"The route is actually a link-up. Each piece took aโฆ
8 August 2021
Pneuma 9a FA by BJ Tilden (40)
BJ Tilden has done his sixth 9a FA, Pneuma in The Temple. The 40-year-old has the full video on his Insta where he also said it took him eleven sessions. "Probably the best power endurance route Iโve ever done. 24 moves from jug to jug with no relaxing whatsoever. Itโs hard to clip just enough of thโฆ
Related news
8 August 2016
9a FA BJ Tilden
BJ Tilden has done his second 9a FA, Mutation in Wild Iris. "This monster climbs the whole rodeo wave from right to left. A grand total of 80 moves on perfect sโฆ
27 June 2019
Black Sheep 9a FA by BJ Tilden (38)
BJ Tilden has done Black Sheep which is his fourth 9a FA and also his fifth 8c+ or harder FA at Wolf Point.
"The route is actually a link-up. Each piece took aโฆ
8 August 2021
Pneuma 9a FA by BJ Tilden (40)
BJ Tilden has done his sixth 9a FA, Pneuma in The Temple. The 40-year-old has the full video on his Insta where he also said it took him eleven sessions. "Probably the best power endurance route Iโve ever done. 24 moves from jug to jug with no relaxing whatsoever. Itโs hard to clip just enough of thโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ




