NEWS

Adam Ondra onsighted Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco in March. In total, he has now onsighted 25 routes 8c+ and 9a at the same time as no other climber has onsighed more than two such graded climbs. In the end of the video, Ondra comments, "Furtunately, the margin was indeed there." The FA Alfredo Webber belayed him and he commented that Ondra did execute all the moves on the 35 meter routes without messing up one single move.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo did Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat (9b) in in 2020. It took him 32 days and for almost two months he lived in the area alone in his van. "It has cost me so much, it's my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all... It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, whatever the grade is, I'm just happy to have done it! ๐Ÿ˜ƒ๐Ÿ’ฅ"

Euro Trash 8A+ by Sera Gearhart
Sera Gearhart has done her third 8A+, all of them in 2022. "Finally did this one and felt like I was floating. Learned a lot and had a lot of fun in the process, definitely hardest of the grade I've done." (c) Ryan Moon

Could you say something about the process how you took it down?
This one was really hard for me! I spent a lot of sessions falling on the move to the 10 start. My main goal was to not get really mental from falling on the same move so I tried to be really patient and only go to the boulder maximum once per week. So glad that process worked out! Now I'm looking to try Automator and Nuthin but sunshine in RMNP in a few weeks :)

IFSC inform that Morioka-Iwate in Japan will host a Boulder and Lead World Cup in between October 20-22. This means that there will be a total of seven events each in Boulder and Lead in the World Cup in 2022. Two weeks ago, two IFSC WCs in China were cancelled due to the pandemics.

F-k the System 8C+ FA by Shawn Raboutou
Shawn Raboutou reports on Insta that he last summer did the FA of Fuck the System 8C+ in Fionnay. It is a low start to Foundation Edge which Dave Graham put up in 2013 and Shawn repeated in 2018. (c) Clรฉment Lechaptois

Shawn is the older brother of Brooke Raboutou who is currently #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Their parents are Didier and Robyn Erbesfield who were leading climbers during the 90'ies. Shawn has previously done (at least) three 8C+ and 20+ 8C's meaning his track record is among the Top-10 in the world.

Boulder World Cup for the first time in Brixen (South Tyrol)
From 10 to 12 June, a Boulder World Cup will take place in South Tyrol for the first time. The worldโ€™s best 250 athletes are expected at the Vertikal Climbing Stadium in Brixen. With the IFSC Climbing World Cup, the most important Italian bouldering event with an international line-up is taking place in Brixen. The bouldering wall is unique and is already well-known in the climbing scene. The wall can be opened or closed as desired and offers space and a stunning view of the mountains around Brixen. A large grandstand will be set up in front of the wall, with 1.600 seats โ€“ from all seats you have a perfect view toward the wall.

The World Cup week starts on Wednesday and Thursday with movie evenings. On Friday and Saturday after the competitions, the Vertical Life Party will take place. Food trucks will offer a nice variety of snacks and drinks for you. Stay tuned for the qualification on 10 June, womenโ€™s semi-finals and finals on 11 June, menโ€™s semi finals and finals on 12 June. Tickets and more info at Suedtirol-climbing.it

1. Natalia Grossman USA 2 805 - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 2 300
2. Oriane Bertone FRA 1 870 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2260
3. Brooke Raboutou USA 1 795 - Mejdi Schalck FRA 2 145
4. Stasa Gejo SRB 1 520 - Kokoro Fujii JPN 1 755
5. Camilla Moroni ITA 1 320 - Paul Jenft FRA 1 310
6. Miho Nonaka JPN 1 250 - Nicolai Uznik AUT 1 195


Overall, there are seven male Japanese at the Top-11. In the national team ranking, Japan is #1 followed by USA and France, and their dominance is quite extreme. Slovenia is the country that has dropped the most in the ranking and part of this is that Janja Garnbret has only done one event.

Grossman and Schalck win in Salt Lake City
Natalia Grossman won the Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City, the only one topping out all four boulders in the final. The 20-year-old has during the last seven Boulder WCs always been Top-2, including being the World Champion in 2021. Among the male, 18-year-old Mejdi Schalck got his first WC victory after barely making it to the final, beating Tomoa Narasaki #7 with one attempt. Jakob Schubert, the only one doing all four boulders in the semi-final had the opposite result ending #6 in the final.

It should be mentioned that the difficulty of the boulders throughout the whole competition was perfect beside one semi-final boulder for the girls. On that boulder everyone but one made the zone on their first attempt but nobody made the top. Noteworthy is also that, although Japan had the best overall results with three podiums, Austria had four athletes making the final. (c) Daniel Gajda

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 - Mejdi Schalck FRA 44 (9)
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 34 (5) - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 44 (11)
3. Miho Nonaka JPN 34 (9) - Rei Kawamata JPN 34
4. Jessica Pilz AUT 34 (16) - Nicolai Uznik AUT 23
5. Franziska Sterrer AUT 13 (1) - Yannick Flohรฉ GER 14
6. Camilla Moroni ITA 13 (2) - Jakob Schubert AUT 12

Riverbed 8B by Michaela Kirsch
Michaela Kirsch, who three days ago did an 8B in Magic Woods reports on Insta that she has done one more, Riverbed. Amazingly, she just needed 3 + 2 sessions in order to do them both so clearly 8B+ should be possible with some more work. (c) Nina Williams

How do you like Magic Woods and how long will you stay?
I absolutely love it here! Iโ€™ll stay until early June!