Michaela Kirsch continues to strike in Magic Wood and, besides two more 8As, she has sent Tigris sit (8B+) after some four sessions. In total, the newly graduated doctor in occupational (hand) therapy has during less than three weeks in Magic done 16 boulders 8A to 8B+. During the last year, she has also done one 8c+ and her first 9a as well as another handful of 8A to 8B boulders. (c) Nina Williams

When was the last time you trained indoors or had some specific physical training?
I haven’t trained since May 4. I left the states for the Roc trip May 5.

How often have you taken rest days in Magic?
I’ve been climbing 1-2 days on and then a rest day. I haven’t taken more than one rest day in a row, but my body is starting to feel tired and I could probably use a few days of recovery!

Three weeks ago, Shawn Raboutou published on Insta that he last summer did the FA of Fuck the system 8C+. Rumour has since said he has also done an unreported 9A. Now, this has been confirmed and, amazingly, we are talking about two possible 9A boulders sent by Shawn in 2022;

The Megatron project in Eldorado Canyon - A seven moves 8C low start, with zero rest, into Daniel WoodsTron 8B+ put up in 2017. Daniel has later projected the Megatron project for several months.

The Alphane Moon project - Insta comments by David Graham including a picture of Shawn: "It seems to add up to a two move 8C, into a 12 move 8C+, followed by something like an 8B exit, with zero rests. Grade wise we assumed it must be harder than 9A."

It should be mentioned that we have reached out to both Daniel and Dave but they have not yet responded so that is why the title says "rumours" although our source says, "this info is already well known in the hood".

Updates from Dave: "Alphane moon is more like a two move 8B+ [not 8C, we found better beta] into a long 8C+ boulder. The description you used for the Alphane Moon thing is what we thought the breakdown would be for the right exit." In regards to Shawn's 9A ascents he just says, "No comment!"

Joshua Ibbertson reports on Insta that he has done Rainman 9b in Malham. (c) Marsha Balaeva

"Rainman has inspired me ever since I watched Steve McClure working it many years ago. It looked impossibly hard to me then and was blown away when he redpointed it in 2017, creating the UK’s first 9B! The route takes a super direct line up the centre of Malham cove on an impeccable rock all the way. It starts up the mega classic Raindogs (8a) continuing through the crux roof of Rain Shadow (9a) before heading into the headwall of Batman (9a/+)/Bat route (8C).

I guess my road to climbing Rainman started when I was 11 and first climbed Raindogs. I returned to climb Rainshadow in 2020 and Bat route and Batman in 2021. It was only after climbing Batman that I really started believe I could link it all together. Having redpointed all the others, I haven’t a clue how many sessions I’ve actually spent on the route. Lots! Since March I spent as much time on the route as I could, trying to redpoint. I’m currently sitting my end of school exams so it’s been quite a challenge to manage my time. The route spat me off the final hard boulder, (where it joins Bat Route) numerous times. On my 18th birthday, I hit the hold at the end of the crux but didn’t stick it...I was hoping Rain Man was going to be a birthday present for myself, but it wasn’t to be! I had to wait another week and a few more sessions for the send. I’ve put so much effort into this route, so it feels unreal to have finally ticked it.

To prepare over the winter I worked closely with my Lattice Coach Ella, we put in lots of antagonistic training and general strength work so that I was robust enough to give it my all, while not getting injured. I think this really helped. We also did a lot of work to improve my power-endurance, including the use of replica problems as well leg training for the kneebar rest. The thought of heading back to Rainman in the Spring always kept my training psych high!"

Angie Scarth-Johnson who just did the FFA of Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef reports on Insta about chipping on that route as well as on . "The truth is , though never mentioned by anyone before, this has been something that’s been happening for years along the Finestra wall and its top end routes and I’m curious as to why things have never been said before Though I’ve Never had a personal experience with this until now , I have heard of these situtions amongst locals before."

So during the two seasons of projecting it was just lately you found two changes which did not change the difficulty? Then later after your send, during the last few days, some guys have found another changes that make the route easier?
No, the route has not been made easier by any means. Though slight modifications to the holds forced me to re-refine my betas the modifications when I last tried it were very minimal. Though now people are speaking of new changes after I left Margalef.

During the second half of May, we reported about four boulders 8A+ to 8B+ in Magic Wood sent by Michalea Kiersch. Now, 155 cm tall with some 7+ cm apeindex, has done five more 8A to 8 B;

Pura Vida (8A+), Never ending story 1 (8A+), Electroboogie (8A+), Foxy Lady (8A) and One summer in paradise (8B). (c) Nina Williams

Which one did you send the fastest and which one was the most beautiful?
Pura vida was one session. Electroboogie was two sessions to find beta that worked for me and also the most beautiful boulder.

What are your next plans?
One more week here and then back to SLC and maybe some Colorado bouldering!

Just prior to leaving for Europe Michaela did her first 8B/+ and her eighth 8c+. Including also a 9a last fall, she has one of the most impressive female ticklist out there, the last year. Michaela's answer last week about how come she is peaking now is even more applicable.

"I’ve always had a lot of support for my climbing. Community, friends, and family have been the foundation of my climbing for years. I climb my best when I am happy, and I feel that I’m at a time in my life where everything has fallen into place. Finishing graduate school is one of my greatest accomplishments to date. I think it gave me confidence and momentum that has carried into my recent projects. I haven’t changed much of my training routine other than having a little more time than before. I think it can be intimidating to try hard boulders. Maybe the difference is that now I’m up to the challenge and have been putting time into figuring out my limits within bouldering."

Matjaz Zorko has done Klemen Becan's in Osp - Banje in Babna. "Very nice, took me about 20 tries. For me easier than Halupca (9a). I guess climbing on tufas in big caves really suits me. I didn’t spend much time in Osp since I climbed Halupca, also because in spring I wanted to finish multipitch Spomin in Paklenica. I can say that Waterworld is more my style than Halupca because it's more about endurance and not that bouldery." Halupca was his first 9a which the 29-yer-old did in January.

How can you explain being a late bloomer?
In the last few years I managed to organize my life and work so that I can climb more outside. Also I feel the mindset is here and that is the key 😊.

What are your summer plans?
Well now in summer we are planning to go back to Bosnia with my girlfriend. Because there seems to be a lot of potential to develop new climbing areas with hard routes, but lets see what happens in the summer. For sure it will be full of climbing.

A Swedish climber found a good kneebar in the off-width crack Tabu 6c in Bohuslän. The problem was that he got stuck and could not get out. The rescue team had to break the granite by first drilling holes. After six hours he got out from his no-hands rest position and is all good.