Sean Houchins-McCallum has sent Echalo (8C) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). The last time the 21-year-old climbed outdoors was eight months ago. ”First 15, certainly won’t be the last. Just barely squeaked it out before I had to leave back for Iowa. 4 sessions total, so excited.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did Echale (8B+) in one session back in the spring, then came back over thanksgiving week and the low start took me 3 more sessions. So four in total.

How is your weekly climbing set up?
My weekly climbing life has essentially no structure 😂 I climb around 6-7 times a week on the tension board 2 in my home gym for around 3 hours and that’s all the training I do. Yeah literally all I do is just try hard tension board climbs.

I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here.

How much outdoor climbing is there where you live?
I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here. There’s one place within an hour drive from me that has like 2 climbs that won’t completely crumble on you however you grab it. So basically nothing lol.

How long driving to find good climbing outdoors?
Depends how good, I could drive 7-8 hours and reach Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas or Holy Boulders in Illinois, or I could drive about 10 hours and get to Colorado. Arkansas and Holy Boulders are the closest spots I would actually consider good.

So Iowa could be the worst place to live in, fancy outdoors?
Maybe not the very worst but I think it’s up there 😂 Maybe somewhere in Kansas or Nebraska? But then again you’re closer to Colorado in Kansas or Nebraska so idk. I think if you want good established hard boulders Iowa might be the worst 😂

What are your winter plans?
Not sure yet, probably just keep board climbing haha. As of right now I don’t think I’m planning another trip until the spring.

Marcello Bombardi, who two weeks ago sent an 8C boulder as well as an 8B (+) trad line, has repeated Matteo Gambaro and Allesandro Cariga’s multipitch La fenice (8c) in Mongioie. The 32-year-old competed actively in IFSC events for 17 years until last year and in 2017 he won in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

”As climbers, we often find ourselves fantasizing about the next line to climb even before we’ve actually finished the one right in front of us, just as we dream of famous places before visiting the beautiful crag near home. I’m the first to admit that I love traveling to climb in new places and, at the same time, discovering different cultures and getting to know new environments. But if we pause for a moment and look at what’s in our own backyard—especially for those like me who are lucky enough to live in areas with great climbing—we might discover that we can live meaningful experiences in places we never imagined, without needing to travel far.

Over the past few months, free from many commitments, I’ve found myself very comfortable with this philosophy, and the experience on La Fenice is just one of many. Mongioie isn’t exactly around the corner for me, but still closer than many other spots. I had been told it was a magical place with an exceptional wall of rock, but I hadn’t yet experienced it firsthand. On top of that, there was an interesting route for the level of difficulty, and Matteo himself praised its beauty, calling one of the pitches among the finest he had ever bolted—and Matteo has bolted quite a few great ones. So why not go and take a look? Expectations were high, but they were anything but disappointed.

Although it’s a multipitch route, La Fenice packs all its difficulties into the first two pitches: a tricky 8a and the crux, an 8c, followed by three easy pitches leading to the top. An 8c on small crimps on the second pitch gave me confidence that I could get it done quickly. Instead, a scorching summer sun, razor-sharp crimps on the crux, and an awkward hanging belay with no escape routes turned out to be tough obstacles, making the experience longer, more exhausting, more fought for—and more memorable.

After an initial reconnaissance lap in July—definitely not in the best friction conditions—I went back for two days in October, with cooler temperatures and higher hopes. On both days, we were hit by a mix of low clouds and fog: sometimes discouraging and soaking us with humidity, sometimes a blessing that shielded us from the still-strong sun. When it came time to start my first attempt on the second day, tension rose. It might be the last good go with the skin I had left. I had to perform now if I didn’t want to plan yet another trip, find new partners, and repeat the long hike again. I wanted to enjoy climbing this sheet of incredible grey limestone, but I also wanted to finish the route. Ready for a battle with the pump, I finally left the uncomfortable belay. I managed to climb smoothly, trust my feet, let the rock sink into my fingertips, and latch the final good crimp.”

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to 8C to her name, has sent wild wild west (8B) in La Pedriza.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how you liked the area?
I visited La Pedriza for the first time for a few days. Wild wild west was at the top of my list, especially for the incredible scenery ☀️. The moves are really nice : a weird toe hook, a big dynamic move, a crimpy section and an easier finish :)

The area is really great, and I didn’t have the time to check all the boulders I have in mind. So I will definitely go again.

What are your winter plans?
Hum ; now I have to work a lot - but I think I will go to Ticino in January or February… not sure yet where and when ! I am pretty flexible, but I would love to find a project for February to April.

Melina Costanza, who did her second 8B+ last month, has completed Eclipse SDS (8B) in Little Cottonwood. In September, the 25-year-old got the bronze in World Championship, which was her first IFSC Boulder competition since 2022, where her best result was #21. (c) Alex Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I went out with AJ who has tried the stand start a few times. The kneebar sequence felt awkward, but very learnable. I think people struggle with the pogos at the top, but those moves didn’t prove too cruxy for me, probably because of my comp background. Was able to send both the stand and sit pretty quickly in one session!

What are your competition plans for 2026 and what is the background story for not doing any Boulder WCs for three years and then getting the bronze in the WCH?
I hope to do a lot more world cups in 2026! I was focused more on lead the past couple years. I was planning on doing the whole World Cup season this year, but tore my LCL and only recovered in time to do world champs. But I’m very excited for more bouldering competitions!

Katalin Paertan, who did her first two 8A+’ this spring, has repeated Thomas Fichtinger’s Finales Funkeln (8B) in Hirschwände. The 22-year-old says that the main reason for her progress is due to mental progress, staying optimistic and having confidence. ”Glad to have done this one! Really enjoyed figuring out a beta that works for me for the upper part. Probably not the hardest but also suits me quite well!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I already started trying a few moves in spring when I was projecting Obszöner Zwerg SD (8A+). I was quite optimistic that I could figure out beta that works for me so I planned to return in the fall. It took me five sessions then to send the boulder.

I came quite close a few times in my forth session but always kept dropping the last hard move which requires an awkward dropknee in the wrong direction, pulling from a weirdly-shaped, bad hold. I just really struggled to commit to it. On Saturday I dropped the move on my first go as well, but luckily managed to convince myself enough to do it on my second try and somehow stayed on as I was feeling quite tired already and my fingers were numb.

While I do feel a bit stronger at the moment physically, I even more notice my mental progression in climbing. Staying optimistic and having confidence in the process definitely helped me the most.

Chaehyun Seo has onsighted T-1 Full Equip (8c) in Oliana. The 22-year-old is number two in the women’s rankings, and her score is based only on her ascents from the past three weeks in Oliana. ”First three draws were super hard, but the other part was quite ok! Super crimpy route:))”

Can you tell us more about the onsight and how close you were to fall?
Trying Pachamama (9a+), I had some time before going down, so mmm… I just checked the line and went. I really didn’t expect an onsight at all, I just tried.

It was totally hard and took all my energy from the beginning, but I just pushed and made the moves. The first crux was the hardest for me, and after that it was quite okay. I changed sequences a lot, haha.

Nicolai Užnik has sent Brain rot (8C+) and was very close to flash La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood, as can be seen in the video.

Can you tell us more about the trip and these two boulders?
It was really a great first day! I haven‘t been to Magic Wood in 5 years so I‘m super psyched to be here. We started the day on the classic Mystic Stylez (8B+) which after figuring out the beta, took me like 3 attempts from the ground. Afterwards I also wanted to check out Brain rot cause I already thought it could suit me quite well, which it also did eventually! After approximately an hour I managed to link this short crimpy boulder and top it out. Obviously it‘s always hard to grade these short kind of boulders, because if the moves suit you it can work out very well and otherwise maybe you have no chance at all. For me it didn‘t feel that bad to be fair, so maybe more like 8C or very low end 8C+ I guess. Either way fun to climb!

[Force Tranquille] I’ve had this one on my mind for quite a while and was really looking forward to trying to flash this legendary boulder. After watching watching a couple of videos, talking to Lukas Mayerhofer about the beta, and having my brother Timo Užnik check it out beforehand, I felt confident I could do it.

It was an almost perfect attempt - until the right-hand dyno. I caught the crimp just a little too far left, which made matching impossible in that moment. I tried to move to the next hold even though my left hand was barely hanging on, then hesitated, went back, paused for a second, felt my fingers growing more numb and tired… but decided to drop back down to the previous hold to make space for the left hand. Somehow, I managed to adjust just enough. At that point, I knew I shouldn’t fall anymore - it was worth taking a moment. Even though it was still really close, I managed to reach the two good slots right before the top out.

Completely numb fingers made me hesitate again - should I move straight away or rest a bit longer? I desperately tried to get some feeling back but couldn’t, so I just went for it. I’m pretty sure that if it hadn’t been for the slip, I wouldn’t have dropped it… but what can you do. 😅

Adam Ondra flashed Foundations Edge (8C) two weeks ago. In the video, he shows us his close flash attempt of Ziqqurat (8C) and also the flash of Gliese 581 (8B+). Adam gives us the backstories and is emotional about all sends.

Filip Schenk, who just did his first 9b, has sent Beginning (9a+) in Arco. ”Last autumn I struggled a lot with the cold temperatures on this one. This year I came back and send it on my second try. This one means a lot to me!”

The Italian has been competing actively since 2014 and as a teenager he won eleven IFSC comps including two World Championships in Boulder. This year was his best World Cup season and he was third in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

”Eremo di San Paolo is the crag where I first started climbing, and probably the one where I’ve climbed the most in my entire life. I never really loved its style: physical, overhanging, with tiny holds. Maybe that’s exactly why I kept going back, driven by the need to test myself. After starting the season sending Erebor, I experienced a few almost magical days: within five days I also sent Tre Mou Polacche (9a) and my old project, Beginning (9a+). Finishing the hardest routes at the "Eremo" leaves me with a bittersweet feeling, but also the pride of seeing real progress in the style that has always challenged me the most."

How can you best explain your peak in 2025?
I have worked on my finger strength which always have been my weakness. Especially on rock, this has helped me. It is also about finding a balance to be motivated. Previous years I was tired after the comp season and not so motivated trying harder routes. Now I have five more days outdoors before I start my training for the next comp season.

Stefano Carnati, who over the last three months has climbed four 9a routes, has repeated Fred Nicole’s L'isola che non c'è (9a) in Amden. Without the rope, the 27-year-old sent three 8C’s in October, so the Nicole classic, which starts sitting, seems to have been a perfect fit for the Italian.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
L’isola che non c’è is a pretty unique line: a hybrid route that starts with a long, sustained bouldery section and then joins a short five-bolt route to exit the cave. It was put up by Fred Nicole, and it had been sitting in the back of my mind for years. But since it’s quite far from home, I kept postponing it.

Last year, in mid-October, I was climbing in Ticino and the weather turned terrible. The next day, a friend and I committed to driving to Amden. The limestone there is beautiful, and the cave didn’t disappoint at all.

That day I climbed the first part Cavernicole (8A), and then returned for the longer version Ragtime (8B+), which avoids the route section entirely. After that, I started working the rope part… and ended up falling there quite a bit. It’s not extremely hard on its own, but coming from the very bottom of the cave it demands a ton of body tension, and that adds up.

Coming back this year, everything just clicked. Good sensations from the first go, and the climb finally came together smoothly.