Ryuichi Murai, with six 8C+ boulders under his belt, has repeated Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Red Rock (NV). ”On this trip it took me 6 sessions. When I did Sleepwalker two years ago, it took me 8 sessions, so in total I’ve spent 14 sessions on it.”

The 31-year-old Japanese did ten Worlds Cup until 2019 and his best result was fifth. Since he stopped competing he has sent some ten boulders 8C and beyond and he has also dedicated a lot of time projecting Alphane (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A).

For the first five days of this trip he failed doing the big span move to the sloper but later found some minor micro adjustments and sent it the second time he passed the crux and he comments.

“I finally achieved what I came here for. The desert was surprisingly rainy at first, but I stayed fresh every session, physically and mentally, and in the end everything fell into place. The real crux was the full span sloper after linking into Sleepwalker. The day I finally stuck that move was the day I sent. For a total of five days, I just kept slapping that sloper and falling again and again. Looking back, everything came down to sticking that one move. Behind it were endless micro adjustments and tick tweaks, so subtle they probably looked like nothing from the outside. Still, I threw every bit of technique and creativity I have built up into making that sloper reachable. On the attempt where I first stuck it, I was too pumped and fell on the last jump. But after a long break and a reset of all the mixed emotions inside me, the next try was the one, and everything clicked. When I barely topped Sleepwalker two years ago, “Return” felt like a dream. I never imagined I would stand on top of this boulder again. This success reminded me not to put limits on myself.”

What is the status of your next project, Shaolin (9A)?
The execution isn’t super consistent yet, but I’ve figured out all the moves.

Erwan Legrand, with two 9a’s to his name, has done the first ascent of Beginning Of The Strongness (9a) in Buoux. The 17-year-old is son to Francois, the best competition climber between 1990 and 1995, winning all three World Championships and 15 out of 27 World Cups.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first tried this project in spring 2024 after sending another 9a at the crag. The route shares the same start with an 8b+, then traverse to the right with a crux around 8A boulder, before ending in an 8c+. Once I figured out how the crux worked, I could immediately start to try from the ground as I already knew both common sections. Unfortunately, during the summer (2024), I injured my left Achille’s tendon due to all the heel hooks I was using in the route. So I couldn’t try the route anymore during 5 or 6 months and when I was finally recovered it started to get too cold for me. This year (2025), I haven’t climbed outside that much, so my number of sessions on the project has been very limited and even if I did some very close attempts, I wasn’t able to reach the top. In September, I’ve learned that my club planed a one-week trip to Buoux in early November. That was the perfect opportunity to finish this project. After a chill first day at the crag, I finally got back on the route with good conditions, I warmed up, checked the moves again, brushed the holds, and rested about 3 or 4 hours before my attempt. Then I started climbing and everything fell into place. I mastered the crux, and fought hard in the end of the 8c+ before clipping the anchor of this new test piece.

What is your project status on Le Bombé Bleu?
[It was bolted in 1991 and has over the years been tried by several of the top climbers.] I did all moves except the famous jump, but was very close to stick it. I also linked from it to the end of the difficulties, which is probably a 10 moves 8c+/9a. So I can imagine that coming from the jump, which is estimated to be 8A+ single move, that would be something around 9a+/b.

And I’m trying the route barefoot, which, for me, makes the whole thing significantly easier but at the same time much trickier, so it requires even more work as you can easily spend 10 secs to get your big toe in a pocket

Jan Štipek, who got the bronze in the Euro Youth Championship in August, has sent Wild Publico (9a) in Margalef, in three plus two tries. The 17-year-old sent his first 9a almost one year ago, in only three tries, so 9a+ should also be within reach.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The ascent was pretty quick — I needed three attempts before climbing Pal Publico, and then two more tries for Wild Publico itself. I was a bit scared in the first boulder where there’s a jump into a one-finger pocket, but I managed it pretty well, and after that it was mainly about holding on through the two cruxes from Pal Publico.

How long is your trip and what is the plan once getting back home?
Our trip is just under a month, and once I’m back I’m planning to train a lot for competitions and for some nice outdoor boulders as well.

Malik Schirawski, with six 9a’s under his belt has done Era Vella (9a) in Margalef and La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana. The 20-year-old needed only six respectively four sessions sending the two classics. (c) Abainmp

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
The process starts a little while back, already in spring, I was in kind of in a hole questioning a lot of my to date goals (if they where "mine" etc) and a friend, who I was in Spain with at the time, spoke about the idea of "The BIG four", the challenge felt appealing, as its at least a little bit, out of the pattern of logic progression. One of the main factors of this challenge was, as the name is suggesting, to tackle the long and striking lines in Catalunya. So this autumn I set off, originally planning to try only two and then return home and come back, but some misfortunate events in the beginning of my trip made me staying for a bit longer.

I first did "Era Vella", which was alot of fun, as it felt quite intimidating in the beginning, and after that, I tried Seleccio Natural (9a) and La Reina Mora, kind of at the same time, always training in between to keep some sort of shape. And on my last day I did La Reina Mora, it felt really epic to stick the last jump move... For Seleccio I will need to return someother time, and also for the fourth one ;) [Esclatamasters (9a)].

What is your climbing background?
Well, I started in comp climbing, but got pulled outside fairly quick (thanks to my old coach Isabelle Kautz) and was then driving it a little bit on two roads for a while, until I decided to stop competing around the age of 14/15. Ever since I fully focus on outdoor climbing, and really using climbing as a tool to see and experience life, so its great.

What are your winter plans?
As I will attend my A-Level exams in spring, I will just train and study, and also boulder a bit which I’m excited about as I have not been bouldering much seriously so far :))

Sean Houchins-McCallum has sent Echalo (8C) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). The last time the 21-year-old climbed outdoors was eight months ago. ”First 15, certainly won’t be the last. Just barely squeaked it out before I had to leave back for Iowa. 4 sessions total, so excited.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did Echale (8B+) in one session back in the spring, then came back over thanksgiving week and the low start took me 3 more sessions. So four in total.

How is your weekly climbing set up?
My weekly climbing life has essentially no structure 😂 I climb around 6-7 times a week on the tension board 2 in my home gym for around 3 hours and that’s all the training I do. Yeah literally all I do is just try hard tension board climbs.

I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here.

How much outdoor climbing is there where you live?
I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here. There’s one place within an hour drive from me that has like 2 climbs that won’t completely crumble on you however you grab it. So basically nothing lol.

How long driving to find good climbing outdoors?
Depends how good, I could drive 7-8 hours and reach Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas or Holy Boulders in Illinois, or I could drive about 10 hours and get to Colorado. Arkansas and Holy Boulders are the closest spots I would actually consider good.

So Iowa could be the worst place to live in, fancy outdoors?
Maybe not the very worst but I think it’s up there 😂 Maybe somewhere in Kansas or Nebraska? But then again you’re closer to Colorado in Kansas or Nebraska so idk. I think if you want good established hard boulders Iowa might be the worst 😂

What are your winter plans?
Not sure yet, probably just keep board climbing haha. As of right now I don’t think I’m planning another trip until the spring.

Marcello Bombardi, who two weeks ago sent an 8C boulder as well as an 8B (+) trad line, has repeated Matteo Gambaro and Allesandro Cariga’s multipitch La fenice (8c) in Mongioie. The 32-year-old competed actively in IFSC events for 17 years until last year and in 2017 he won in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

”As climbers, we often find ourselves fantasizing about the next line to climb even before we’ve actually finished the one right in front of us, just as we dream of famous places before visiting the beautiful crag near home. I’m the first to admit that I love traveling to climb in new places and, at the same time, discovering different cultures and getting to know new environments. But if we pause for a moment and look at what’s in our own backyard—especially for those like me who are lucky enough to live in areas with great climbing—we might discover that we can live meaningful experiences in places we never imagined, without needing to travel far.

Over the past few months, free from many commitments, I’ve found myself very comfortable with this philosophy, and the experience on La Fenice is just one of many. Mongioie isn’t exactly around the corner for me, but still closer than many other spots. I had been told it was a magical place with an exceptional wall of rock, but I hadn’t yet experienced it firsthand. On top of that, there was an interesting route for the level of difficulty, and Matteo himself praised its beauty, calling one of the pitches among the finest he had ever bolted—and Matteo has bolted quite a few great ones. So why not go and take a look? Expectations were high, but they were anything but disappointed.

Although it’s a multipitch route, La Fenice packs all its difficulties into the first two pitches: a tricky 8a and the crux, an 8c, followed by three easy pitches leading to the top. An 8c on small crimps on the second pitch gave me confidence that I could get it done quickly. Instead, a scorching summer sun, razor-sharp crimps on the crux, and an awkward hanging belay with no escape routes turned out to be tough obstacles, making the experience longer, more exhausting, more fought for—and more memorable.

After an initial reconnaissance lap in July—definitely not in the best friction conditions—I went back for two days in October, with cooler temperatures and higher hopes. On both days, we were hit by a mix of low clouds and fog: sometimes discouraging and soaking us with humidity, sometimes a blessing that shielded us from the still-strong sun. When it came time to start my first attempt on the second day, tension rose. It might be the last good go with the skin I had left. I had to perform now if I didn’t want to plan yet another trip, find new partners, and repeat the long hike again. I wanted to enjoy climbing this sheet of incredible grey limestone, but I also wanted to finish the route. Ready for a battle with the pump, I finally left the uncomfortable belay. I managed to climb smoothly, trust my feet, let the rock sink into my fingertips, and latch the final good crimp.”

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to 8C to her name, has sent wild wild west (8B) in La Pedriza.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how you liked the area?
I visited La Pedriza for the first time for a few days. Wild wild west was at the top of my list, especially for the incredible scenery ☀️. The moves are really nice : a weird toe hook, a big dynamic move, a crimpy section and an easier finish :)

The area is really great, and I didn’t have the time to check all the boulders I have in mind. So I will definitely go again.

What are your winter plans?
Hum ; now I have to work a lot - but I think I will go to Ticino in January or February… not sure yet where and when ! I am pretty flexible, but I would love to find a project for February to April.

Melina Costanza, who did her second 8B+ last month, has completed Eclipse SDS (8B) in Little Cottonwood. In September, the 25-year-old got the bronze in World Championship, which was her first IFSC Boulder competition since 2022, where her best result was #21. (c) Alex Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I went out with AJ who has tried the stand start a few times. The kneebar sequence felt awkward, but very learnable. I think people struggle with the pogos at the top, but those moves didn’t prove too cruxy for me, probably because of my comp background. Was able to send both the stand and sit pretty quickly in one session!

What are your competition plans for 2026 and what is the background story for not doing any Boulder WCs for three years and then getting the bronze in the WCH?
I hope to do a lot more world cups in 2026! I was focused more on lead the past couple years. I was planning on doing the whole World Cup season this year, but tore my LCL and only recovered in time to do world champs. But I’m very excited for more bouldering competitions!

Katalin Paertan, who did her first two 8A+’ this spring, has repeated Thomas Fichtinger’s Finales Funkeln (8B) in Hirschwände. The 22-year-old says that the main reason for her progress is due to mental progress, staying optimistic and having confidence. ”Glad to have done this one! Really enjoyed figuring out a beta that works for me for the upper part. Probably not the hardest but also suits me quite well!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I already started trying a few moves in spring when I was projecting Obszöner Zwerg SD (8A+). I was quite optimistic that I could figure out beta that works for me so I planned to return in the fall. It took me five sessions then to send the boulder.

I came quite close a few times in my forth session but always kept dropping the last hard move which requires an awkward dropknee in the wrong direction, pulling from a weirdly-shaped, bad hold. I just really struggled to commit to it. On Saturday I dropped the move on my first go as well, but luckily managed to convince myself enough to do it on my second try and somehow stayed on as I was feeling quite tired already and my fingers were numb.

While I do feel a bit stronger at the moment physically, I even more notice my mental progression in climbing. Staying optimistic and having confidence in the process definitely helped me the most.

Chaehyun Seo has onsighted T-1 Full Equip (8c) in Oliana. The 22-year-old is number two in the women’s rankings, and her score is based only on her ascents from the past three weeks in Oliana. ”First three draws were super hard, but the other part was quite ok! Super crimpy route:))”

Can you tell us more about the onsight and how close you were to fall?
Trying Pachamama (9a+), I had some time before going down, so mmm… I just checked the line and went. I really didn’t expect an onsight at all, I just tried.

It was totally hard and took all my energy from the beginning, but I just pushed and made the moves. The first crux was the hardest for me, and after that it was quite okay. I changed sequences a lot, haha.