Noah Wheeler FA’s Jorōgumo (8C)

Noah Wheeler, who last year sent two 9A’s, has done the first ascent of Jorōgumo (8C) in Haycock. ”Proudest FA. Always thought this climb was legitimately impossible until I came back this year with a honed body and mind. Has the sort of holds you would imagine VHards must have had when you were a kid.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
The climb is a sit to a 1-move V10 called Orb Weaver. I remember when I first did the stand, 5 years ago (when I first started climbing outside), thinking the sit was impossible. There are just very few feet and the crimps are incredibly small and flat. I came back this year in November cognizant of my improvements over the years but still skeptical as to whether the climb was possible. In a matter of 2 or 3 sessions I was eventually able to unlock the crux move (which unlocked the climb), encompassing of a disgusting full-crimp on a tiny right hand. Vital to my process on this boulder was my taping beta. I discovered that if I did not pretape my right pointer finger, it would split in one go. Regardless, I only had a few tries on the climb per day before it destroyed my skin. I sent on my first session back in PA in January (While back home for the holidays).

Southeastern Pennsylvania crags largely consist of Diabase rock, which is a grainy but bullet rock type that generally creates tiny flat features on relatively vertical surfaces. This climb is a perfect demonstration of the diabase style, and its very cool and personally significant to climb this style at a higher difficulty level.