Tyler Thompson ticks 9a’s: One Hundred Proof and Smoke Wagon

Tyler Thompson, who last year did five 9a’s and one 9a+, has repeated Jonathan Siegrist’s One Hundred Proof (9a) and Smoke Wagon (9a) in Mount Potosi. The 23-year-old logs the latter with a personal grade and comments, ”Ultimately knees bring down the intensity of this route just enough for it to be more in the 8c+/9a range or just hard 8c+ IMO. (c) James Lucas

Can you tell us more about these ascents?
Clear light [main sector in Mt Potasi] is pretty ideal for winter climbing. Getting back to Vegas from some holiday travels, I tried Smoke Wagon. That route suited me super well and I was able to do it in 3 days. I jumped straight on Hundred Proof, which involves a harder and longer start before going all of the difficulty of SW. On my first day trying that version I came super close and sent my first try the next climbing day. I used a few marginal kneebars throughout both routes which weren’t used during the FA from Jonathan. None of them are particularly good but they enhance key rests and ultimately bring down the intensity of the pure endurance style.

What is coming up next?
My plans coming up are to focus on training and local projects while I finish up my seasonal job, installing and now taking down Christmas lights around Vegas. In February I am going to Siurana for a bit and then will spend April and May up at Clark!