Jorge ToteLegu, who sent his first 7C boulder at age 31, has completed Street Fighter (8C) in Santa María del Espino / Alcolea.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was first climbed by Juan Alonso Mancera in March of this year. He had already done the stand start, an 8A+ single move, a few years ago, and it hadn’t been repeated. Then, less than a month ago, it was repeated by Guillermo Peinado, video. That repeat appears on Jorge Díaz-Rullo’s YouTube channel, since both climbers try the boulder there. And well, I liked the boulder. It’s in the Hidrofix sector. In March I gave it two sessions with good conditions, and now in November, with the cold arriving, I gave it three more and in the end it went down.

What is your climbing background?
Well, I started climbing in a casual and very on-and-off way, mixed with lots of other sports, around 2002—I don’t really remember, haha. I used to do rope routes, no bouldering at all. I actually started focusing more on bouldering and training a bit more consistently around 2017, when I joined a very small climbing gym we called La Gruta. Since then, I’ve been discovering more Spanish and international bouldering areas with friends and training in a more structured way up to now. These days I try to train twice a week and get out on real rock as much as my daughter and partner allow me, haha. And that’s about it, really…

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Featuring over 560 boulder problems across 14 sectors, Rakchham has quietly emerged as one of the world’s most breathtaking and diverse granite climbing destinations—a true paradise for both beginners and elite climbers. To ensure that Rakchham doesn't suffer the same fate as other climbing hotspots, the professional climber has relied on a sustainable concept from the very beginning – an approach that could set a precedent.

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When did you first vist Rakchham and how much time have you spent there exploring?
I visited Rakchham for the first time in 2010 and returned every year since then. More or less I spent 5 years in this village already....( every year 3-4 months exploring, brushing, preparing & doing FA`s :-) Even after 15 years development, I would say: the potential is still "untouched" ! There is still so much rock around the village & the valley.

Paul Robinson, who did his first 8C, out of 26, almost 18 years ago, has sent Sound of Violence (8C) in Left Fork and Turpentine (Post Break) (8C) in Coal Creek Canyon. In 2021, he had two discs replaced. ”I think the reason that I had to get the surgery was partly due to my genetics as well as taking 23 years of falls from bouldering. I did the surgery because I love pushing myself in climbing. I love trying to push myself to climb some of the hardest boulders in the world and if I did not get the surgery I would never be able to climb that hard again."

Can you tell us more about those 8C ascents?
When I came up with my list of climbs for my “Final Project,” video series, two of the most important climbs to me were, “Sound of Violence,” and “Turpentine.” Both of these climbs I had tried many many times before and had become epics over the years. Having come agonizingly close to both, I felt this absolute need to send them!

After a good training block in September and early October, I set my first objective on “Sound of Violence,” in Joe’s Valley. As per annual tradition, I set out for Utah over Halloween and on day 1 was pleasantly surprised to do the full upper sequence very quickly. I packed up my shoes and decided to rest the remainder of the day and come back the next day for send burns.

The following day, I warmed up and sent the line on my second try. Knowing my training had paid off felt so good and also had me itching to head home to start trying “Turpentine.”

As the weather cooled at home, I began trying “Turpentine,” agin. My first session went really well and my second session back I nearly sent! The weather however quickly changed and the temps dropped to below freezing for a week straight. I tried in the freezing cold but couldn’t get the friction I needed to send. After Thanksgiving, I saw a day on the forecast that reached 34° f [1 degree] at the boulder. Even though it was too cold, my psyche was too high to not try. I warmed up at home and as soon as I got to the boulder, I started trying it so as to not numb out. After a few mishaps, I made it to the crux and stared down the final move. Bam! I stuck it. I couldn’t believe it and climbed it to the easy top out.

I feel very happy for the momentum I have now and can’t wait for the next project on the list. Once this big storm passes and the snow melts, I think I will set my sights on “Freak Show,” another V15 in the same area as “Turpentine,” my backyard of Coal Creek Canyon.

How come you think you are peaking again? How do you train nowadays?
I think good training and concentration on my diet. I am not 25 anymore so I need to be careful with what I eat. I am almost exclusively training on the tb2. That board is incredible. I switched my home wall to a spray wall to try and mimic outdoor climbing more. Trying to build finger strength!

Andrea Chelleris, who a couple days ago did his eleventh 9a and harder, has completed Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef. ”Wow it felt so good to send this, After the send of 20 años despues 9a in siurana I gained an amazing shape that for sure helped in today’s send!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying Victímas Pérez last year, where I invested probably 4–5 days, but I couldn’t make any progress because my skin kept splitting. I came back this year and already on my third try I started falling on the last crux, but after 2–3 days my skin started opening again, so I had to go to Siurana. I came back again after maybe five days and got very close on one try, so I was really looking forward to the next day, but then I split my finger again. So back to Siurana for one week, and today I came here, did a perfect warm-up, and sent it on my first try of the day. I think the route wasn’t very hard because it’s my style (endurance on pockets), but what made it so hard were the sharp pockets that kept tearing my skin and not letting me make much progress.

Manon Hily, who six weeks ago sent her first 9a, has done Punt’X (9a/+) in Gorges du Loup. The 31-year-old was 13th in the World Championship in September, and her worst result in four World Cups this season was 12th. Two years ago, she made the podium in Briançon, and in 2022 the qualified nurse won the bronze in the European Championship.

On Instagram , she comments: ”Last day, last run 🫡 In sync with punt X but mostly with myself, if only for a short moment. The flow.”

Lucy Mitchell, with five 8c’s under her belt, has sent José pine le gardien dans la cave (8c+) in Lourmarin.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was a bit of a dream come true really. I had tried the route last year, but failed to put the top section together, even though it is not meant to be the hardest part. This year I went with no expectations, just a short trip and just wanted to climb after a busy year of work. I got on the route on day 3 of the trip and the moves felt easier than last year, but I didn’t think I would be fit enough. I still couldn’t unlock the top section clean.

A tried it on a more humid / wet day and it felt much worse, but I did all the moves (which I think really helped me believe in good conditions I had a chance). I had 2 days of it all just feeling hard! But on my last go I managed to climb through the top section clean … finally. Just the cave at the start and I had a chance.

I watched Antoine Marie climb it as his warm down that evening … which put things in perspective :) It was inspiring to watch. The following day I got through the cave and somehow managed to hold it together and keep going to the top! Such an incredible route, with such incredible climbing.

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who sent his first 9a+ last week, has done Mejorando Imagen (9a+) in Margalef. (c) Charlotte Veld

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The same day I sent my project [Gancho Perfecto], I tried a test run to check the moves. The next day, I fell on the last move and realized I could do it quickly. In total, it took two more days of attempts, falling on the last move each time.

The day I sent it was perfect. I felt great warming up, and the people at the crag were fantastic—all my friends and the young members of the Aragonese climbing team. I’m so happy to have sent these two legendary routes and to share it with my friends.

How come you think you are peaking now?
This summer I trained with a plan, just like when I was competing, but above all, I’m in a great mental state, with a lot of self-confidence. My friends in the sport have helped me a lot to feel good and motivated, and thanks to their encouragement I’ve been able to achieve this.

Andrea Chelleris, fresh off winning the Euro Youth Cup last month, just sent 20 años después (9a) in Siurana. The 16-year-old climbed his first 9a in 2022 and his first 9a+ last year. Since turning 13, the Italian U-14 Slalom Champion has also onsighted 20 routes 8a+ to 8b+.

Can you tell us more about the highlights of your trip?
After the European cup in Toulouse, I went straight to Spain with my dad. The plan was to stay mainly in Margalef, but after the first week I started to split my skin and I had to tape my fingers. I couldn’t climb well, so we went to Siurana, where I could climb even with the tapes because it’s mainly crimps. I could fast send Pati noso (8c+) and Directa Cornualles (8c) on my 3rd go. Later, I sent Sin Ácido Clorhídrico (8c+/9a) which fits my style very well, so I took only 2 days and 5 tries.

After, I tried 20 Años Después, and from the first try I thought that it was gonna be a fast send, but later it turned out to take a bit longer. To me, it felt like a hard 9a, so I tried to get some info about the route and I got to know that a hold broke (probably an undercling) in the first part. Now you have to grab a mono with the left hand and go to an undercling with the right hand, which at first was quite a hard move for me. After I started falling on the last crux, I knew I was Very close, I fell another time but then when I got there the third time I could send the route.

I have time until the 5th of December so I will try to go back to margalef and see if I can send the project!

Which project do you refer to?
In margalef I fell on the last crux of Victimas Perez (9a) probably five times or more but one try I was really close.

How much schooling and work on a trip like this for you and your father?
I do homeschooling so on rest day I can study but my dad had to take a break from his work, he does tree climbing (he cut trees).

Sam Weir, who last week did his fourth 8C+, has repeated Dave Graham’s classical From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. The 31-year-old works full time as a proposal/ contract manager in the nuclear field and interestingly, he has no sponsor, and all his 8C+’, he has done the last two years.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Yeah, I tried it a session in 2019 and fell on the mantle. Then last week I fell due to cold hands in the middle a few times… Came back a week later, gave a few tries on Arrival of the Birds (9A), went down the hill and it went right away. It fits me really well and this heel hook match at the lip was my crux actually😂 Luckily I found and copied D Woods beta and made it chill for me.

How many sessions have you put in and what is the project status on AOB?
It’s going super well so hopefully I stay injury free and can make it count while I’m still young enough 😅

How does a normal climbing week look like?
Right now I’m trying to be in outdoor shape so I train hard Monday weights and board. Wednesday light big holds session/ anti style blocs. Then rest 2 days for Saturday outside. Sometimes Sunday too if I feel ok.

Do you normally train in a climbing gym?
No, just a 53 degree board in a warehouse I rent with some friends in the Chamonix region.

How long is the drive to Chironico and are you going also next weekend?
If my split heals, yes. 4.30 hours driving, but I’m American so it’s close 😂. We have a close friend that lives in Ticino and hosts us. It’s for this reason I have been able to succeed this year. Game changer.

Marco Sappa, who last year did an 8c trad line, has completed Necronomicon (8b+) in Canyonlands. The 30‑meter roof crack was FA’d by Jean‑Pierre Ouellet in 2011 and has been repeated just five times. Its long hand‑to‑fist jams lead into a sustained 6‑meter “green‑size” section, making it one of the most physically and mentally demanding trad routes in the world. (c) Mary Eden

”There's no information or guides, and the area is so vast it's impossible to find if you don't know where it is. There's very little information online. I started dreaming. But dreams always have to face reality: it's not easy to reach, and it's not easy leaving your family for a long time, especially with young children, and also, as with any good project, there could be a good chance of failure. Honestly, after the initial enthusiasm, I had put the idea aside a little. Over the course of the year, however, it would come back to me every now and then, and I'd think about it, going back to the few photos and videos I could find online.

Then, over the summer, Thomas and I started thinking that we could actually return to Utah for the fall. So I decided to think seriously. I started asking my contacts for information, and finally Pete Whittaker gave me the GPS location. Okay, now the next thing was about specific training. The problem is that in Europe we don't have similar lines; there's nothing that can prepare you for that kind of physical commitment. Over the years, I've learned that if you don't arrive in Utah physically ready, it takes a long time to adapt, to get your muscles used to that intensity, and above all, to be able to maintain it for a long time because the lines are very long.

The only way is to do it on artificial structures. At home, I built 4 meters of crack climbing, and as soon as the summer season ended, I added specific sessions for a month. The great thing about crack climbing is that if you're motivated, you can train even when you can't hold the holds anymore, so in September I managed to climb some great projects I'd had in mind, and in the meantime, I was able to train for Necronomicon.

We left on October 13th, and on Thursday the 16th, I did my first day on the project. The first part, the jam, is hand–fist climbing, long but relatively easy. Then comes the section of more than 6 meters of "green" climbing. The first try was a bit of a shock: it seemed impossible to "stay on"; it's really narrow, and besides your hands, the problem is that your feet can't fit. The other great difficulty of Necronomicon is "trying it." Going back and forth under a ceiling isn't very comfortable, and if you fall long, you have to climb back up, and it's exhausting — all this while carrying a lot of Friends. Initially, I focused on the hard section, and slowly I began to gain some confidence with those elusive jams. And I did all the moves individually. I got used to feeling my feet better and climbing with that constant feeling of precariousness.

On the third session, I managed to do the entire hard sequence, with the Friends already placed, and I realized that I probably should have done it all without placing any Friends. I started with a few attempts from the beginning; the key would be to climb the first section very well and quickly to arrive as fresh as possible at the "hard" section. At the end of the green sequence, with a beautiful and very strange move, "U-Turn" (feet first), you manage to lock your knees and breathe. After that, the route gets easier, but it's still long and you have to fight to the end. In sessions 4 and 5, I fell 3 or 4 times at the end of the hardest section, making crazy swings and brushing the bushes below. Honestly, I felt a pressure I'd never felt before, and I also felt a little guilty towards my family. The more you realize you're about to succeed, after having invested so much, the harder it is, the more stressful it is. You have to keep all these emotions under control and make sure they don't take over. It wasn't easy. On day 6, I did it on my second try. An incredible emotion. Definitely the hardest crack I've ever climbed, physically and mentally. I'm very proud to have managed to take another step forward in my crack climbing experience.”