Nicolai Užnik FA’s Full Gem (8C+)

Nicolai Užnik, who the last year has sent nine boulders 8C to 9A, has done the first ascent of Full Gem (8C+) in Chironico. The 25-year-old Austrian has spent twelve years on the competition circuit, capping off last World Cup season with a strong eighth-place finish in Innsbruck. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Well, it’s the sit start to Forgotten Gem (8C), which I climbed last year around this time on my second go. It adds a couple of quite basic but hard moves into the stand, which makes the whole line significantly harder. It took me around six or seven sessions, I think, to finish. One of the best moments I’ve had was when it clicked and I topped out. Such a pure line!
What is coming up next?
I’m probably going to just mainly train at home the next 2-3 weeks since I’m going to Burden of Dreams (9A) end of February! I might have one or two sessions on the replica but otherwise just gonna train normally.

What about comp preperation?
i‘m starting my world cup season in bern end of may so there‘s still some time, probably going to slowly shift my focus towards comps after finland tho.