Iris Bielli does her first 8c+

Iris Bielli has done Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio (8c+) in Sasso Pelo. The 21-year-old Italian is a versatile climber, excelling across disciplines and sending 8b climbs in multi-pitch, trad, and bouldering.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8c+?
The route features an intense start that culminates with a fourteenth move that I found particularly challenging. This is followed by some tiring moves, a short rest, then a second crux focused on body positioning, and finally some other pumpy moves all the way to the anchor. I tried the route for the first time in November. I managed to solve all the moves already on my first try and, on the fourth day working on it, I climbed the route with just one rest at the fourteenth move, but I had never managed to pass the first crux in continuity. I then decided not to try the route for three weeks due to a pain in my left middle finger. I returned in January with my finger healed and renewed motivation. After a first day to remind my muscles of body positioning, the day of the ascent arrived.

That day, I changed my beta for the first crux and, on the next go, I passed through the fourteenth move for the first time, then crossed the second crux and had a real fight against the pump to climb the last moves to reach the chain. Happy to have kept my cool and not let my emotions get the better of me in the second part of the route. It took seven days to send it.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls.