NEWS

27 September 2022

Jakarta Lead highlights

Janja Garnbret and Luka Potocar both from Slovenia are the overall Lead World Cup winners in 2022. However, the team rankings are as follows:
1. Japan 21 355
2. Slovenia 18 274
3. USA 16 598
4. Germany 9 484
5. Italy 7 947
Complete results

1. Janja Garnet SLO 5 805
2. Chaehyun Seo KOR 4 405
3. Natalia Grossman USA 3 370
4. Laura Rogora ITA 3 345
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 3 250
6. Natsuki Tanii JPN 3 075
7. Mia Krampl SLO 2 385
8. Ryu Nakagawa JPN 2 320
9. Vita Lukan SLO 2 235
0. Jessica Pilz AUT 2 149
Complete result

Garnbret wins by topping out the shared men's route
The route setters decided to let the female and male categories share the same top portion of the Finals route. Unfortunately, no male climbers made it to the top headwall but this wasn't the case with women, as Janja Garnbret topped it in style. "Today, the route was not hard enough so it was basically about not making a mistake. I feel bad for Seo because she climbed suburb all the weekend.โ€ Chaehyun Seo from Korea was the runner-up and she looked equally relaxed but fell on the second to last balancey move. Third place was claimed by Mia Krampl. Complete results

Yurikusa wins in Jakarta
26 September 2022

Yurikusa wins in Jakarta

Ao Yurikusa from Japan won the World Cup in Jakarta. It was raining and he only reached hold 29, thus not making it to the final headwall, and only climbing a few moves beyond the rest of the pack. Runner-up was Higuchi Masahiro also from Japan ahead of Sebastian Halenke from Germany, both reaching hold 28. Overall, Japan had four climbers in the Top-5, which was their best ever Lead results. Complete results

Luka Potocar needed to be #7 in order to win overall. This was also his result in the semi so he started second in the final. Ultimately, the 20-year-old did not perform at his best and fell early as he struggled to find the correct beta on the first hard move it seemed. Then he could only wait for someone to fall below him as a tie would rank him below due to countback. The next man out was Raviandi Ramadhan from Indonesia making his World Cup debut in front of his home country. It starts to rain and he looks very nervous, at one point fumbling with quickdraw for close to 15 seconds. The crowd cheers him but suddenly he falls as he misses an incut part of a hold and Luka gets the overall title.

1. Luka Potocar SLO 3 860
2. Taisei Homma JPN 3 835
3. Jesse Grupper USA 3 812
4. Ao Yurikusa JPN 3 239
5. Yannick Flohรฉ GER 2 910

26 September 2022

Jakarta World Cup Finals

Sรถderlund, Digiulian and Harrington send Rayu 8c MP
Matilda Sรถderlund reports on Insta that she together with Sasha Digiulian and Brette Harrington have sent Rayu, 8c MP on Peรฑa Santa (2596 m) in Spain. Their ascent is the hardest ever graded big wall completed by a female team, including Sรถderlunf and Digiulian both doing the crux pitch. The 610m and 15 pitch long mixed route was established by the Pou brothers in 2020 and it was reported that, "The Basque brothers are convinced that, given the exceptional quality of the route, it will become a classic that will be pursued by the best climbers in the world."

Sasha (29) has been one of the world's leading female climbers for the last 15 years performing at the very highest standard in all disciplines. In 2011, she got the silver in the Boulder World Championship, and in 2013 she sent Era Vella 8c+/9a as well as sending Bella Vista 8c MP. She has also done numerous Boulder as well as big wall FAs. Matilda (30) has previously done one 9a and been #6 in the Lead World Championship in 2012. Brette (30) has repeated and established many hard MPs as well as alpine big walls.

Luka Potocar is very close to securing the overall World Cup title as he made it to the final as #7 while at the same time both Taisei Homma #12 and Jesse Grupper #13 did not make it into the final round and final top-8. If the 20-year-old Slovenian keeps his seventh position, he will get 3 860 points beating Taisei Homma, who has 3 830 points and Jesse Grupper, who has 3 773 points.

From the semi-result, we can see that Nishida Hiremasa won ahead of another three from Team Japan.

Among the women, Chaehyun Seo and Hannah Meul topped the semi-final with Janja Garnbret as #3. Slovenia has three girls that have made it to the final and Japan had five girls in the Top-12.

Foxy Lady 8A flash by Allison Vest
Allison Vest, who did her first 8B+ this February, has flashed Foxy Lady (8A) in Magic Wood. The boulder has 267 ascents in the 8a database out of which 17 flashes. "Iโ€™ve seen so many videos of this boulder so it was cool to finally try it. After touching the first couple of holds from the ground I thought itโ€™d be a good one to try to flash.

We only had 3 days in Magic Wood which wasnโ€™t enough for me to put down some of the properly hard boulders I tried so Iโ€™m stoked to go back eventually."