Lilli Kiesgen has done Pura Vida (8A+) in Magic Wood and in Fontainebleau. The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016.

"I had my first session on (Pura Vida) a day when most boulders were wet. I sent Foxy lady just before and wanted to climb more on that day. Some people said Pura Vida is dry so we went there. I did the first moves pretty quickly and struggled a lot with the ending. I wanted to avoid the small pocket and tried a couple of different betas. They felt pretty hard and were tough on the skin. In the end, I figured out, that I have to use the pocket with three fingers and a foothold on the left side. The next days were really rainy. I sneaked in one session in between the rain, but it was more frustrating because the topout was not really dry enough. In the next session, I tried it with Linda Sjödin. I fell a couple of times at the point where you swing the heelhook to the right. I changed the beta a bit and it worked out pretty well. I sent it later on that day ☺️

Partage was on my list a couple of times. On our last trip to Bleau (in March), I had two sessions on it. In those sessions, I felt really close, but I only tried it from the bottom and couldn’t figure out the move to the big hole in the upper part. I always tried to grab two really bad slopers instead of going directly to the hole. On our recent trip, I had bad flu and lay in bed for two days so I thought Partage would be out of my range. But in the last two days, I felt better so I thought I could give it a shot. I had one small activation session and on the last day, I went to Partage. I directly checked out the upper part with a rope and made a fast send it on my second try of the day."

Martin Tekles has done No pain no gain (9a+) in . On Insta he says he projected it for three trips and nearly eight weeks at the site. The 31-year-old finished his World Cup career, after ten years, in 2021. His best result was #9.

How did you prepare yourself between the trips and at the site?
Between the trips I trained mostly indoors on the spraywall and at Massone in Arco to get the specific endurance for roof climbing as most walls at home aren't that steep.

In Rodellar, I mostly climbed just this route to get this specific endurance. Training the route in sequences or climbing the first half of the route two times in a row to not get too pumped in the beginning. Before going for send tries I worked myself down from the chain, adding more clips and moves until I was able to link the upper half. Then I did send tries. Every day before doing send tries I bouldered through the route one time to get the feeling for the moves.

When was it you understood that you were about to send it?
It was only two days ago that I had the feeling I could actually do the route. I could do all the moves pretty fast after a few days last year on the first trip. But to link them and also do them when I came from the ground being pumped was something different. I had to change my beta several times.

Why is it only sends from the last three years in your logbook?
Before 2019 I did only compete in worldcups and finishing my psychology masterstudies (so there wasn't too much time beside 🤣). So all my hard routes are from 2019 till now. Before 2019 I climbed a couple 8c-8c+

Daniel Fuertes has done Las Meninas R2 9a+ in . Two weeks ago he did the first 9a pitch commenting. "It is a gorgeous line bolted by my friend Gonzalo Larrocha. It took me a long time to manage the first moves. After that, the stamina over a crimp section until the first anchor suited me better. When I managed to redpoint the first pitch I kept going to the second anchor but my foot slipped out in the last movement! I hope to climb the route soon because is a king line!"

The 42-year-old worked the extension three days more and actually the first time he passed the 9a anchor he sent it. During the last years Dani has been climbing harder than ever including doing Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9a+).

How can you explain sending harder than ever being 40+?
Now, is more difficult for me to travel for climbing routes onsight and it’s more comfortable climbing hard projects close to home. I think it is because of this, that I have done my hardest routes being 40+.

Luka Potočar (20) won the Lead World Cup in 2022, which came as a surprise to some. However, upon further inspection, his road to victory has been surprisingly steady. As a junior, he won four Euro Cups/Championships beginning in 2016, and in 2018, he took silver at the Youth World Championship. In 2020, he was #4 in the only WC, and last year, the 20-year-old was #4 overall and also placed second at the World Championship.

Could you tell us a little bit about your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 5 years old. I was training in my hometown for 9 years. My first year on the national youth team was in 2016 when I won my first Lead European Cup in Imst and my first lead World Cup was in Kranj 2017.

What do you think made your 2022 season so successful?
2022 was really a season to remember. It was not easy after a good last season to get another season like that or even better. I used experiences I got from competing on the highest level and I think this was very important this season. Also thanks to my coach, I was in great shape the whole season.

How does it feel to have won the World Cup overall?
With so many strong guys around me, it really feels amazing and I can’t wait for next year to defend this title.

Who is your coach and could you describe how you train?
My personal coach is Domen Švab, and he is also on our national team. Training is planned and based on competitions, so the first part of the season is focused on boulders and the second on lead with some bouldering, but details are changing from season to season because the calendar of competitions is never the same. Normally we train five times a week for three to four hours on a spray wall in Radovljica.

How often do you climb outdoors and what are some of your personal bests?
I can't be proud of my rock climbing, to be honest, every year I go to rock maybe 3 to 4 times. I feel like after the season I need time to rest without any climbing and when I have competitions I don't feel like climbing outside and working on some projects. I have done a few 8c and that's it.

What would it mean for you to qualify for Paris 2024?
Olympic games are for sure something special for every athlete and yes, also for me. It is going to be hard to qualify for Paris but yes this is my biggest goal for the future and I am looking forward to giving my everything to get a chance to compete in such a huge event.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has been in Australia since mid September and has logged four 8c+ routes including one he upgraded and one he downgraded, each of which were Tom O'Halloran FAs. Last Sunday, Jorge flashed Tiger Cat (8c) in Blue Mountains. (c) Sasha Gerzha

On Insta, Jorge says it is his hardest flash ever. "A hard route with so much endurance, dynamics moves, technical moves and some holds that require so much precision."

Jake Bresnehan gave him the running beta. "I went up the climb in short sections (1 or 2 bolts at a time) and explained my beta and a few other options for the tricky sections I knew. We are very similar heights so my beta was pretty spot on. He was a little nervous with the first move and down climbed a few times to the ground to gather some composure. Once he committed he was in the zone and nailed everything. One of the most inspiring things I have seen."

Jonatan Flor reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Picasso 9a+ in . The Spaniard has previously done 60+ routes 8c+/9a and harder making it as #7 on that list. (c) Pau Alonso Prat

Camilla Moroni, who has climbed five 8A to 8A+ graded problems over the last six weeks, has sent Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. "I'm super happy. Right after the Italian Boulder Championship where I managed to defend my title, I went to Magic Wood for only one day. I sent it in a few attempts, then I went to One summer in paradise (8B) but I fell at the very top. I hope for a drop in temperatures in the next weeks to start the Ticino season."

Davide Picco has done in Arco, which according to FA Stefano Ghisolfi includes more than 100 moves that, "connects the first boulder of Underground, Reini's Vibes, downclimb some moves of Pietra Murata, the crack boulder of L'ultima Pietra with a crazy finger lock, and the last tiny crimps of Stonehenge."

What do you mean by your "Per il momento 🤣🤣🤣" comment on Insta?
It seems like recently it's become a fashion to downgrade routes, either because people find new ways of climbing them or because they try to diminish someone else's performance. But that's just my opinion, I still don't have the experience to grade these routes, I just know it was hard for me. That's what I meant with al momento, literally, it would be "9a+ until someone downgrades it" 😅.

How much time did it take?
I don't know, maybe 10/15 tries? But, I already knew the moves because the route is a connection of underground and thunder vibes, so I just needed to build up some endurance. I began trying the route on the weekends before leaving for my summer holiday trip in Rodellar. I needed a place with the same weather conditions I expected to find in Spain and Pueblo was the perfect match: hot, humid, and 40 degrees. I came back from Spain and trained mostly in gyms as the last competitions of the lead circuit were held here in Italy. Last week I went to check the moves and surprisingly found myself clipping the chain. 😁

What is your next/autumn plan?
Always in Arco! Currently, I'm trying a route in Padaro 😁