Vertical-Life
Pura Vida 8A+ and Partage 8A+ by Lilli Kiesgen
"I had my first session on (Pura Vida) a day when most boulders were wet. I sent Foxy lady just before and wanted to climb more on that day. Some people said Pura Vida is dry so we went there. I did the first moves pretty quickly and struggled a lot with the ending. I wanted to avoid the small pocket and tried a couple of different betas. They felt pretty hard and were tough on the skin. In the end, I figured out, that I have to use the pocket with three fingers and a foothold on the left side. The next days were really rainy. I sneaked in one session in between the rain, but it was more frustrating because the topout was not really dry enough. In the next session, I tried it with Linda Sjödin. I fell a couple of times at the point where you swing the heelhook to the right. I changed the beta a bit and it worked out pretty well. I sent it later on that day ☺️
Partage was on my list a couple of times. On our last trip to Bleau (in March), I had two sessions on it. In those sessions, I felt really close, but I only tried it from the bottom and couldn’t figure out the move to the big hole in the upper part. I always tried to grab two really bad slopers instead of going directly to the hole. On our recent trip, I had bad flu and lay in bed for two days so I thought Partage would be out of my range. But in the last two days, I felt better so I thought I could give it a shot. I had one small activation session and on the last day, I went to Partage. I directly checked out the upper part with a rope and made a fast send it on my second try of the day."
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Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
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Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B
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During the second half of May, we reported about four boulders 8A+ to 8B+ in Magic Wood sent by Michalea Kiersch. Now, 155 cm tall with some 7+ cm apeindex, has…
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…