NEWS

The Big Island 8C by Christoph Schweiger
Christoph Schweiger, who was #8 in the Euro Championship, has done The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. "I tried the Island the first time 3 years ago for one session and already unlocked all the moves then because of Covid and a lot of comps where my focus at the moment is, I didnโ€™t make it back to this boulder since then. This year we had a training camp with the national for a week in Font and I spend another session there where I fell really close and ran out of power at the end of the session. Then after a rest day I came back and did it the second go after my warm-up :)"

It looks like this is your first big send this year?
I barely have had time for rock climbing this year because of a really packed competition schedule but I really enjoyed the time in Font now and already canโ€™t wait for two weeks of Ticino for the new year.

 Nagay 8c by Camilla Bendazzoli
Camilla Bendazzoli has done Nagay (8c) in Covolo. "Covolo is my home crag so last summer I happened to go there a couple of times. I didn't know which route to try and I had always heard about Nagay being hard. Luckily I had Davide Picco with me that knew all the moves, so I went and checked if they could someway be possible for me. Apparently, the style suited me well and last month I decided to give it some serious tries and succeeded ๐Ÿ˜." (c) Christoph Schweiger

"It looks like Yosemite, but it's sandstone ... During a climbing trip in Ceuse, we were passing in this valley of Champsaur. I immediately saw this wall. It looked far away in the mountains. But you know, curiosity can bring you far away ๐Ÿ˜. After spending an afternoon finding a path to get to the wall, I was amazed by this place and the rock. I had to come back to bolt the first line here.

When I was back in Ceuse, trying Biographie, in summer 2020, I went up for few days to bolt the first route of our French Yosemite. It was quite an expedition to brought all the bolting gear to the top of this mountain. I did many push to brought the gear during my biographie rest days. I was walking as much as possible, trying to find the way to the top. And when I was too tired, I left the gear on the mountain. Coming back the next rest day to attempt it again. I finally reached the top of the mountain, and bolted this giga route. The rock is really cool, but needed some cleaning. As it's sandstone, I remember a lot of sand falling in my eyes ๐Ÿ‘€ I guess "Sandman" is good name for this one. I was dreaming of this route before sleeping
"

What does Project Big mean to you?
Iโ€™d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. Itโ€™s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, itโ€™s simply extraordinary. Itโ€™s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, itโ€™s steep, offers so many hard route options; as a climber, this is a place youโ€™ll always want to come back to.

โ€œEverybody wants to have a world champion at 16, and a long career. Itโ€™s a marathon, not a sprint, but Iโ€™m seeing too much pressure put on younger athletes, and an increasing number of injuries because to this.โ€

"Do we want to raise the next generation of skeletons?"

Lazarus 9a+ FA by Moritz Welt
Moritz Welt, who previously has done 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Lazarus (9a+) in Frankenjura, after some 30 sessions. (c) Lars Decker

Can you tell us more about the FA?
So the route was my main objective since last fall. It was a long-standing project bolted by Markus Bock, and I think I first tried it about 2 and a half years ago. I think it's one of the best lines around and involves some really nice movements with a lot of drop knees etc. Tho it's quite bouldery the final crux for me was power endurance. It's approx. 15m long and on the steepest part, it's about 50ยฐ.

I think it really was a good lesson in patience for me. Before trying this I'd never been able to fully focus on one single project over a longer period without getting frustrated.

Are there still many bolted projects in Frankenjura?
I only know a few, not more than 10, and some of them might be even impossible... but I think there is still a bit of potential for bolting new stuff.

What are your winter plans?
Now I'm training for bouldering mostly, already having a Ticino trip planned for end of december/beginning of January.

New Base Line 8B+ by Siara Fabbri
Siara Fabbri, who had 8A as her personal best five months ago, has done New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. The 29-year-old is working full-time as an antimatter researcher and has previously this autumn done four boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Simone Tentori

"Wow, what a journey! Just so happy to do this line and relieved for the send. It ended up being a solo night sess in the snow with a spicy wet top out. Many sessions into it starting this year, but the best feeling to have it so dialed that on the send it flowed and I felt strong. This block taught me a lot, and a lot of special memories here with amazing people."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying New Base Line this year, and in the Fall, I felt close but fell a few times toward the end on the cross move after the sidepull. I came back a few weeks ago after a little break, and after dropping the last tricky move to the gaston because of some bad beta, I knew I could send it the next session. I made it back after a big snow and fortunately the boulder was dry except the top and I ended up sending at night in -4 in the snow. It was an amazing experience and such a cool boulder with so many details! Luckily there were pads up at Stairway to Heaven I could borrow so one pad up to NBL then 6 trips up to Stairway total, it was tiring but kept me warm!

How did you warm up in such freezing conditions?
I was already warm from the walk up and did a 30 minute warm-up on the boulder where I tried to rest very little. To stay warm I had two big down jackets and down boots, and I kept my hands inside on my stomach between goes. I did get numbed out on the send and for the topout couldn't feel the holds - which made the wet part extra spicy.

What is your climbing background?
I've been climbing for 8 years but during my PhD I didn't have very much time to climb outside, and started climbing more outdoors this year in Ticino, Fionnay, and Magic Wood. My focus now is bouldering outside and I'm really excited for many more lines to come!

Can you tell us more about your work as an antimatter researcher?
Switzerland has some of the best bouldering in the world as well as the most advanced scientific research facility and only place which produces antiprotons - CERN. I work there as an experimental physicist in the ALPHA Experiment. Composed of a team of roughly 60 people, we make precision measurements on antimatter atoms which help to answer the question as to why the universe as we know it is matter-dominated. We are also aiming to discover the gravitational interaction of antimatter with matter - for example, would an anti-apple fall up or down on Earth? It is super fun working there and a lot of the time I feel like a big kid who gets to build things and see how they work.

The Journey in Colombia 9a+/b by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated Alex Megosโ€™ Chan Chan Bastards 9a+/b, aka The journey in Colombia in Margalef. It is a link-up of The Journey 9a+ and the top of Jorge's big project Cafe Colombia. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

"This season I feel better than ever and the feeling in my project is getting better! ๐Ÿ˜ƒ๐Ÿ”ฅ I have always liked these two routes a lot and the truth is that it has been good training to now continue with my main project. Also, with new beta for the final crux that is maybe the sending beta!? ๐Ÿคช๐Ÿ’ฅ" More comments on his Insta.