Child of Hell 8C "2nd Go" by Aidan Roberts

Aidan Roberts, who two weeks ago did the first repeat of Alphane 9A, has done another Shawn Raboutou FA, Child of Hell 8C in Gottardo / Gotthardpass. Impressively, the previous competition climber did it on his first go after just trying it out on top rope. Just before, he had done Stairway to heaven (8B), in the picture. (c) Sam Pratt

How was it possible to send an 8C so quickly?
Ah yes, so the crux of Child of hell mostly revolves around a small right hand shoulder which of course makes it physical but the puzzle lies in the footholds and they’re very bad and very high! So I used the rope to figure out the best footholds for me. I did the crux section in 2 parts off of the rope but was happy with the method and had to stop as was worried my skin would split! So when I pulled on from the ground it was definitely a surprise for me to top out, I’d expected just to figure out the bottom section really (it’s about 7C+ until the crux). I had a very clear head whilst I climbed though, I think a continuation of the headspace I tried hard to adopt whilst giving attempts from the start on Alphane. It translated well.

Could this quick ascent in any way confirm Alphane being 9A?
Alphane definitely feels to be the hardest climb I have done. Not in terms of hardest moves but this isn’t the difficulty of the climb really. The difficulty lies in links as the transitions between moves are so exhausting and complex. But regarding the grade, I didn’t feel so much as though it was my responsibility to comment. I understand a first ascensionist has the pressure to establish the grade but I think it’s often the least enjoyable part of the process and I don’t believe future ascensionists should so much subject the developers decision to too much scrutiny. Grading has become such a point of pride within climbing. It has been for me lots in the past too you see.

So I’m making attempts to step away from this and any comment I would make on the matter would be in the form of a conversation with Shawn, though no such conversation feels necessary in this example. I believe the collective who graded this climb has so much more experience than I that it would be rather proud for me to think that I have a better idea!