Max Bertone, lead youth World Champion in September, has done The Vice (8B) in Rocklands. "Super classic of the Fortress. I felt this roof harder than Saruman du bas (8B) in Font. 7 sessions needed to send this force test of 13 moves."

Previously, the 15-year-old has done two 8B's and three 8c+. Max is a sibling to Oriane Bertone and it has been a tradition for the family to visit Rocklands during the Christmas break for several years.

Michaela Kiersch sent Dreamcatcher (9a) last year after five days and now the video is out. Here is the article from 2021.

What was the key to sending it so quickly?
I trained specifically for this route for weeks. Focusing on increasing endurance, finger strength, and campusing power.

What was the crux for you? Did you have to invent a new beta being shorter (152 cm) than the previous repeaters?
The crux for me was the final boulder problem. My beta is relatively similar to everyone else, maybe just higher feet.

In April she completed her doctoral degree in hand therapy and immediately went for her first extended trip only focusing on climbing. During three weeks in Magic Wood, she did two 8B+ and another 12 boulders 8A and harder. In total, the 27-year-old has done nine 8c+' and last fall she did her first 9a, Dreamcatcher after just five days of projecting. Here is an 8a interview from this summer.

What is your plan and ambition for 2023? Any specific climbs you want to do?
Several 😉 but as always, you’ll have to wait and see! I’m looking forward to seeing where 2023 takes me, I feel stronger than ever and have more time than ever. I’m surrounded by a lot of love and joy right now.

Moritz Welt has done a very fast ascent of Dreamtime 8B+/C in Cresciano. ”Tried it for one session last winter and was quite surprised to feel that good on it. Unfortunately couldn't go back to try again because I injured my foot a few days after. This trip it was my main objective and today was my Dreamtime session. Just checked the moves again and had one or two send burns until I finished it off.”

The 21-year-old is mainly a route climber having previously done one 8C but 17 routes 9a and harder.

Iziar Martinez has done Bongadita (8c) in Margalef. The 17-year-old needed more than 10 sessions for the send and says, ”It’s the hardest 8c I’ve done. It was like endurance training.”

What are your plans and ambition in 2023?
Good performance in international comps and keep growing. Finals in the European adults cups would be great.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has onsighted Memoria de Peix (8b+) in Margalef. Previously, the 23-year-old has onsighted two 8c’s and nine 8b+ meaning his onsight track record is one of the most impressive in the world. In the 8a ranking game, he is #4.

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
It is a very short route, like 5 quickdraws, the same as all routes in Laboratory crag. Powerful with little pockets 😁.

Oriane Bertone, who was #6 in the World Cup, has done a quick ascent of Oral Office (8A+) in Rocklands. ”I was so surprised to send this incredible dyno so quickly !! Second try of the second sesh.”

Do you have and plans and ambitions for the Olympics?
Actually, no plans or ambition for it right now… I want to get better and stronger, and we’ll see later for the Olympics!!

What are the plans for the last days in Rocklands?
Armed response (8A+) is the main one, Out of Balance (8A) for sure, and Barracuda (8A)! I only have 2 days left, hope I can get things done!

Amandine Loury has done Bleurp (8c) in St Léger. (c) Jean-Luc Jeunet

”The classic sectors in St Léger were wet this holidays, so we went to the Simpson sector which is drier and sunnier. It’s perfect for winter days, the routes are shorts (around 15 meters) and pumpy for twenty movements. I tried Bleurp a few years ago, and I never came back because it’s not the best rock quality in Saint Léger. This year I needed three sessions for send this route which is pumpy and harder and harder going up.”

Katie Lamb has been the leader of the 8a boulder ranking for almost two years. Even so, the 24-year-old has been pretty much under the radar with only 41 posts on Insta. In the portrait video, she does Book Club (8B+), which was her fifth 8B+, all of them done in the last 18 months.

By checking the database, we can see that Sabaton in Leonidio & Kyparissi had six of the 30 most repeated routes (76+ ascents) in 2022 in the 8a database. In the Vertical-Life App there are currently 106 routes listed in Sabaton, out of which 80 are found in one concentrated zone. It's described as, "A sector with a very quick approach, at a serene spot near old olive trees, with stunning sea views, good pocketed limestone with pleasant mid-grade routes, and shade almost all day."

During the last Leonidio climbing festival in October, it was the most sought after crag. Most of the routes have been bolted by Claude Remy, who is one of the world's most respected route developers. Claude is the son of the late Marcel Remy, who was climbing until he was 99 years old, and has put up well over 12,000 routes starting in the seventies.

Claude says, "Since 86 we put about 2000 bolts every season, we pay most of them... yes!

Can you tell us something about when you started bolting Sabaton in 2017?
It was difficult for me 'cause I was sick for a week so as it's a close sector to the road with a short walk and shorter routes. I was happy to go cause not able to walk well (but climbing was a bit better). I did it mainly with Boris Grobéty, in January with a very good friend from Chokoland and of course the 2 Metaxotos. In fact, I started with a few routes in November before with Iannis Metaxotos and his son Jacob a great young boy from Leonidio. I think the year after the main mini wall we did the mini canyon. In fact, nothing to say except that the rock is nice but the climbing is mostly very classic style. Some routes are very nice and all are very well protected but the routes are (a little) too short, but the good things are: no walk, choice of different levels and of course, it's in the shade (so it's a good crag if it's too hot around) and close to the sea.

What drives you to bolt so many routes?
I love it, passion, love of rock, no seriously because we are extremely malaka.

What is important while developing a sector?
First is to have a connection with the rock, is it nice, OK let's go...

How much work, days, and money have been put into Sabaton?
A lot but again I really don't know. I never keep track, I don't care. I am happy and this is the main thing. And after, if climbers, people and the municipality around are happy? It's a bonus.

Why did you name it Satabon?
Fucking good question, thanks. We love hard rock since the end of 60s. For years our best band was Motörhead, unfortunately, Lemmy (leader of Motörhead) pass away. But there are so many great choices in hard rock (the only real music) but we love Sabaton the so famous, heavy metal band from Sweden, since 1999. The band's main lyrical themes are based on wars and abuse of power. This is heard in their songs and videos: Rise of Evil, Final Solution, Coat of arms, Uprising... Hoping never again.... since the human race has achieved so many things ... unfortunately weapon advancements, commercial war and tactics have remained basically the same.

Best songs (again there are so many): Primo victoria, Midway, Metal ripper, Talvisota, Screaming eagles, Ghost division, Midway, Metal ripper, Into the fire, Masters of the world, Metal crüe, 40 : 1, Lion from the north, Coat of arms, Countresticke, Attero dominatus and in 2019, Great war, The attack of the dead man, Fields of Verdun, Red Baron, Bismarck, Father, Night, ... and many many more...