Jana Svecova, who last year did two 8B+, has done the FA of Appointment of the king (8A+) in Al Tawian. Last winter was also spent in the United Arab Emirates doing FAs.

Can you tell us more about your second trip to UAE and your 8A+ FA?
We came to the United Arab Emirates for two months, from December till the end of January. We decided to go to the Emirates because we know that you can enjoy climbing in winter here. It’s most of the time about exploring new areas and doing FAs. One of my FA is also boulder Appointment of the king which I graded 8A+. It has just really small holds, even for me 😃 whole climb is powerful and technical at the same time and it's in a 50-degree overhang. I also try to add a sit start now since we roll out one big stone and it is possible to start two moves lower, those two moves alone are around 8A maybe harder. I am 100% sure it will be around 8B+ 😀 We have two weeks left so let’s hope I will report some ascent of the lower start soon.

Martin Stráník has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Kráter 8C/+ in Holstejn and here is the video. " 11 days in total. Had to climb very precisely and fast on this 22 moves long boulder, which was really on my physical limit. Could send it on my 7th session, but after a hold broke I had to work much more on it, thus I recommend upgrade to 8C/C+." (c) Jakub Konečný

Martin won silver in the World Championship in 2007, at age 17, and has been one of the best climbers in the world since then. In total, the Czech has done 17 8C's, out of which four was in the last year. Until 2019, he basically only did Boulder WCs but later he started doing Lead events as well. In 2021, he made the podium twice at the WC and was #4 at the World Championship.

Sebastien BOUIN did the FA of the 130 m long Nordic Marathon 9b/+ this summer and here is the old news article. Now Seb shares some new thoughts about the send and his trip to Flatanger.

"It was one of the craziest ideas I ever had: crossing the huge cave of Flatanger via the most overhanging part. Adam Ondra told me about this idea before I went there. I was really excited to check out this mega project. Here is the video of this huge FA of 130m. I called the route Nordic Marathon, and proposed the 9b/+ grade. I also did two other hard routes during this trip : The first repeat of Iron Curtain, proposed as 9b by Adam Ondra. I think it more 9a+ with Kneepads. And I did the third ascent of Change, the world first 9b+. I proposed the 9b/+ range using kneepads. But, the trip wasn’t just about sending. It was the whole process where joy, happiness, emulation and motivation, relationship, lifestyle, discovery, and meetings, played a big role.

This feeling when life seems easy and simple brings me peace. And with this peace, I no longer feel the pressure and stress of my objectives. It's rare to have everything coming perfectly together and find myself surfing on the top of the wave. The fine line between success and failure is sometime small. And the tiniest mistakes can cause you to fall. Everything was perfectly in harmony to make the many successes of this trip happen. My physical shape, the perfect projects (not too hard, just on the good limit), the best partners, the conditions, and the luck. I am so grateful to live such beautiful moments. This kind of trip does not happen that often in a climber’s life. Thanks to everyone who contributed, near or far, to this one.”

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as well as his first 8a onsight. Since grade one, he has basically been home schooled and for the last seven years been travelling around Europe with his family. Previously, the 17-year-old has done 16 routes 8c+ and harder and last spring he did No Kpote Only 8C+, calling it 8C after finding a new sequence.

What are your plans for 2023?
I really hope to explore Tirol and all the amazing crags/routes it has and properly settle down in Innsbruck for the studies (will finish the German preparation next semester and then will start a proper course). I suppose because of it I won't really have the possibility to travel a lot except for the uni vacation days, so homecrags/projects are going to be the main focus. Would also really like to start bolting/developing/FAing some stuff, because it definitely lights me up!


What do you plan to study at Uni?
I'll study Computer Science, so first semester is going to be full on math with not too much time to chill in between. Most of it will be offline. If I'm lucky I'll get some days to go out for a bit longer then a weekend, but longer is unlikely.

In September, Théo Blass became the youngest ever to have done a 9a by doing Trip tik tonik (9a). Here is an article, with comments by his father, after he had done his first 8c at age 10.

Vojta Trojan, who previously has sent seven 9a’s, has done the fourth ascent of Tom Bolger’s Wild West (9a) in Margalef. ”Hard bouldery start, then endurance leading into a last crux under the anchor. Very cool route.. 9a/a+ feels right for me - as it's much harder then the left exit.” (c) Jan Erben

Can you tell us more about the ascent? Since I was in Margalef in November and sent the left exit, Wild Publico (9a), I wanted to finish this hardest and purest version of the route, as I got back here after Christmas. It took me way longer than I thought and I'm glad, that the one perfect condition day saved my ass and I could clip the anchor.

The route took me 6 days (1-2 tries a day) to finish, + I knew the start moves from Wild Publico. Thanks to Tom for bolting the start and opening this quite new and very cool route as well as many others!

8a has published the “Climber of the Year” list for the past 20 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. Please feel free to add names or suggest changes to the very subjective list.

1. Adam Ondra - CZE
2. Chaehyun Seo - KOR
3. Yannick Flohé - GER
4. Colin Duffy - USA
5. Sebastien BOUIN
6. Janja Garnbret - SLO
7. Alex Megos - GER
8. William Bosi - UK
9. Oriane Bertone - FRA
10. Natalia Grossman

11. Anak Verhoeven - BEL
12. Camilla Moroni - IT
13. Laura Rogora - ITA
14. Shawn Raboutou - USA
15. Michaela Kiersch - USA
16. Katie Lamb - USA
17. Yoshiyuki Ogata - JPN
18. Jakob Schubert - AUT
19. Tomoa Narasaki - JPN
20. Kokoro Fujii - JPN

21. Luca Potocar - SLO
22. Jesse Grupper - USA
23. Simon Lorenzi - BEL
24. Staša Gejo - SRB
25. Tasei Homma - JPN
26. Martina Demmel - GER
27. Jonathan Siegrist - USA
28. Nico Pelorson - FRA
29. Jorge Diaz-Rullo - ESP
30. Aidan Roberts - GBR
31. Stefano Ghisolfi - ITA
32. Nolwen Berthier - FRA
33. Daniel Woods - USA
34. Martin Stráník - CZE

35. Choong Katherine - SUI
36. Eva Hammelmüller
37. Coudert Camille - FRA
38. Brooke Raboutou - USA
39. Dave Graham - USA

40. Loic Zehani - FRA
41. Jessica Pilz - AUT
42. Alex Puccio - USA
43. Allison Vest - USA
44. Drew Ruana - USA
45. Jana Svecova - CZE
46. Angie Scarth-Johnson - AUS
47. Miho Nonaka - JPN
48.Domen Škofic - SLO
49. Jonathan Flor - ESP
50. Moritz Welt - GER

Solveig Korherr has had a great trip to Ticino where she did Teamwork (8A), Walker on Earth (8A) and La persistencia de la memoria (8A), "A lot of perseverance & finding the suitable beta for my size. Finally, the left heelhook stayed on :)"

The 24-year-old has previously done five routes 8c+ and harder but only two boulders 8A and harder.

Could you tell us more about the three 8A ascents?
Spending three weeks in Ticino for me as a sport climber has been the longest time bouldering outside. The three things I learned the most are that bouldering is extremely about failure, perseverance, and style dependent. After a rather rocky start and a lot of failures in the first two weeks in Ticino, I’m glad my perseverance paid off in the end and I could send a few 8A boulders.

1. Adam Ondra - CZE
The world’s best climber since 2009, which he achieved when he was only 16 years old. In 2022, he onsighted 12 routes 8b+ to 9a and did the FA of Zvěřinec (9b+), which he commented, as well as two 9b’s.

2. Sebastien BOUIN - FRA
Only counting redpoint, Seb would have been #1 with the FA of DNA (9c), two 9b+ and a 9b/+. Here is the 9c interview. Just like Adam, he is known for stiff grading.

3. Alex Megos - GER
In between and after doing ten IFSC competitions, he managed to do some ten routes 9a and harder including two 9b FAs. Here Megos comments three 9a+.

1. Anak Verhoeven - BEL
Five routes 9a and 9a+ in 2022 as well as an 8b+ onsight. She also started bolting routes during a one month trip to Leonidio. Here is an 8a interview from Leonidio.

(The following three girls are tied #2 as we could not split them.)
2. Laura Rogora - ITA
During 14 days in October, the successful competition climber did four routes 8c+ or 9a, which she commented to 8a. In February she did three 8c FAs. In between and after these ascents her focus was more or less on comps.

2. Chaehyun Seo - KOR
During two weeks in November, after a very hectic competition season, she did several impressive ascents including La Rambla (9a+) and onsighted one 8b and one 8c.

2. Martina Demmel - GER
She started climbing only in 2017 and within two years, she had onsighted her first 8b (a+). Since 2020, she has arguably been the best female onsight climber in the world. In 2022, she onsighted 24 routes 8a to 8b, as well as, did her second 9a and three 8c+. 8a interview from December.

It is not often that I decide to expose myself ... But, at this place I just feel I need to. Not only from my over 15 years of international competition career, and psychology view but also from my human touch. Talking about a specific topic, such as eating disorders, is hard.

In reply to some previous posts - yes, it is important to note that there is a distinction between eating disorders and low body mass index (BMI). First, to note, athletes at all BMIs can struggle with eating disorders. Additionally, it is not uncommon for people with eating disorders to have a normal weight, as the focus of the disorder is often more psychological than physical. With that said, it is important to consider, as already mentioned in some posts before, that there are no legal limitations for individuals with mental health conditions to compete, as long as they are able to do so without endangering their own or others' health.

But, when someone's weight-to-height ratio (BMI) and//or body fat drop below a certain (medically provided) limit, physical changes to the body occur. There is a point where we start to talk about endangering health, and concern about acute and long-term health consequences arises. At this point, I would strongly encourage organizations capable of this (IFSC), to think about some actions of taking care of their athletes and limiting those, who with their BMI or fat mass can show signs of endangering their health.

… When I competed, there were no BMI limitations. Would I have appreciated them back then? Honestly, maybe there was a moment, I would not. Looking back, I would appreciate having it at that time. The competitive world is something beautiful and I wish everyone in it to experience it at it's best. On the other hand, it is, what it is - a competitive world, with its traps and dangers. Some of them are not seen now but can leave a deep scar on someone's life. So, I believe, body mass index limitations would not be beneficial only for exposed athletes themselves, but also for the potential physical and mental health of the World Cup circuit.

As mentioned already many times, the best climbers are examples from the younger generation. Meaning, without setting some (lowest) acceptable competition health standards, we can bear in mind all other and younger generations and the 'message' which we are releasing with that. That very low or extremely low weight is acceptable. Maybe even desired. (?).

I believe, it is not necessary to be unhealthy and (dangerously) skinny in order to achieve success in climbing. In fact, focusing too much on weight can lead to an unhealthy obsession with body image, which can take focus from an athlete's training, physical preparation, learning technical skills, and psychological well-being. This can lead to mental health problems and a decline in overall welfare for athletes.

There are examples of sports organizations, such as the Norwegian model for healthy sport (1) and the Australian DE statement in high performance sport (3) and some National teams in sport climbing determinations, that have implemented guidelines for maintaining a healthy sport. By introducing BMI limitations in climbing, we can also demonstrate to other sports that the climbing community and federation care about the well-being of our members and are willing to set a good example for health protection in sports.

I believe IFSC has done some steps in this field (3,4). But, definitely looking forward to seeing them bring those ideas to life. With this said, I wish all the best to our community. Stay healthy, and be strong! Mina Markovič