26 February 2023

Fabela pa la enmienda 9a by Leo Bøe

Leo Bøe 🍄, who the last three months has done four roiutes 8c+ and his first 9a, has done Ingravid Serps extension (8c+) and Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya.

Can you tell us more about your Fabela ascent?
Lately, I’ve been trying La Novena Enmienda 9a+, a route which starts in the centre of the cave and ends all the way up on the lip. It’s a big dream of mine to climb this route and it’s a proper endurance test piece. Since I figured out the moves for the upper part it made sense to climb Fabela into the same ending up at the lip which makes it 9a. The route I did is basically Fabela 8c+ into the Enmienda ending which is around 8b+. But the pump builds up and I quickly found myself screaming with the anchor at my face unable to clip the chain. I had to fight my way past it through moves I hadn’t done before as I was unable to clip from a lower hold. Proper heart breaker if you fall clipping the chains!

Super happy with this king line and especially since it came with a good fight! Next, I’ll be trying to send Fuck the System 9a which I almost did a couple of days ago. I fell off the last dynamic move on that one so it should be possible soon! It’s been a project for a while.

How long have you been in the area?
I have been in Spain for 3,5 months climbing in the surrounding crags! It has given me loads of progression and motivation so I decided to stay for another 2 months. March and April are also known to be the best time for sport climbing in Spain so I’m psyched to see what I can pull off with even better conditions! Also, there are a lot of pro climbers around at the moment and there are plenty of things to learn from them.
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