
26 February 2023
Fabela pa la enmienda 9a by Leo Bรธe
Leo Bรธe ๐, who the last three months has done four roiutes 8c+ and his first 9a, has done Ingravid Serps extension (8c+) and Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya.
Can you tell us more about your Fabela ascent?
Lately, Iโve been trying La Novena Enmienda 9a+, a route which starts in the centre of the cave and ends all the way up on the lip. Itโs a big dream of mine to climb this route and itโs a proper endurance test piece. Since I figured out the moves for the upper part it made sense to climb Fabela into the same ending up at the lip which makes it 9a. The route I did is basically Fabela 8c+ into the Enmienda ending which is around 8b+. But the pump builds up and I quickly found myself screaming with the anchor at my face unable to clip the chain. I had to fight my way past it through moves I hadnโt done before as I was unable to clip from a lower hold. Proper heart breaker if you fall clipping the chains!
Super happy with this king line and especially since it came with a good fight! Next, Iโll be trying to send Fuck the System 9a which I almost did a couple of days ago. I fell off the last dynamic move on that one so it should be possible soon! Itโs been a project for a while.
How long have you been in the area?
I have been in Spain for 3,5 months climbing in the surrounding crags! It has given me loads of progression and motivation so I decided to stay for another 2 months. March and April are also known to be the best time for sport climbing in Spain so Iโm psyched to see what I can pull off with even better conditions! Also, there are a lot of pro climbers around at the moment and there are plenty of things to learn from them.
Can you tell us more about your Fabela ascent?
Lately, Iโve been trying La Novena Enmienda 9a+, a route which starts in the centre of the cave and ends all the way up on the lip. Itโs a big dream of mine to climb this route and itโs a proper endurance test piece. Since I figured out the moves for the upper part it made sense to climb Fabela into the same ending up at the lip which makes it 9a. The route I did is basically Fabela 8c+ into the Enmienda ending which is around 8b+. But the pump builds up and I quickly found myself screaming with the anchor at my face unable to clip the chain. I had to fight my way past it through moves I hadnโt done before as I was unable to clip from a lower hold. Proper heart breaker if you fall clipping the chains!
Super happy with this king line and especially since it came with a good fight! Next, Iโll be trying to send Fuck the System 9a which I almost did a couple of days ago. I fell off the last dynamic move on that one so it should be possible soon! Itโs been a project for a while.
How long have you been in the area?
I have been in Spain for 3,5 months climbing in the surrounding crags! It has given me loads of progression and motivation so I decided to stay for another 2 months. March and April are also known to be the best time for sport climbing in Spain so Iโm psyched to see what I can pull off with even better conditions! Also, there are a lot of pro climbers around at the moment and there are plenty of things to learn from them.
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