NEWS

Luisa Deubzer does La thรฉorie des cordes (8c)
Luisa Deubzer, who last year did Speed Integral (9a), has sent La thรฉorie des cordes (8c) in . (c) Martin Leitner

"Majeur! Felt rather solid for the grade to me, no idea what the downgrade in the new topo is about. Fell so many times on the lower crux move to the pinch that it was starting to be a bit overdueโ€ฆ but well worth my while to stick with it! Loved it."

Adam Ondra onsighted in Osp/Misja Pec, last November."Yees, very proud to onsight it. Possibly not the hardest 9a especially with kneepads, but not a very obvious one to onsight. Super happy."

William Bosi has made very good progress on Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, in his first two sessions. Let's see if he continues trying the new beta he found. Here is the live-streaming link.

William Bosi just recently said that he felt that Adam Ondra's Terranova (8C+) was as hard as Burden of Dreams 9A. Now, Jana Svecova has dropped a video where she does all moves on Terranova in just two sessions, by coming up with new beta.

Carlo Traversi does From Dirt Grows The Flowers, 8C
Carlo Traversi, who did his first, out of ten 8C, in 2011, has repeated Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Got really close to finishing From Dirt in early 2013. Right after making the first ascent of The Kingdom (8C), I fell off the mantle a few times from the bottom. I could do the mantle easily from starting mid way up the boulder but it always felt like it just didnโ€™t work from the bottom. Iโ€™ve returned to try a few times over the years but conditions just havenโ€™t lined up. This trip it felt good first day, but then itโ€™s been too warm since then. Luckily with only a few days left in the trip, we got some cold, windy conditions yesterday and I was able to climb it 2nd try from the bottom. Was a really odd send for me, the boulder has always felt like a bit of a struggle, nothing feeling easy. Send go felt weightless, no struggle, the easiest climbing has felt the whole trip.

Three years since the last 8C. How did you get back into peak performance shape?
I feel like Iโ€™m always in peak performance shape. At least I try to be. That doesnโ€™t always result in sends, but my level has mostly been the same or slightly improved each year for the last 10 years. So my โ€œresultsโ€ are rarely reflective of the work Iโ€™m putting in.

What are your 2023 plans?
Lots of plans but nothing worth mentioning yet. The goal is always to maintain top level in bouldering, sport, and traditional [climbing]. So I will likely be bouncing between those 3 disciplines through the summer. Multi-pitches is definitely a priority for 2023.

The 34-year-old did his first two 9a's in 2015 and he has later done two 9a+. Three years later he did the second ascent of the first 8c+ trad route in the world, Beth Rodden's Meldown, and last year he did another one of the hardest trad lines in the world, Magic Line (8c+). His previous send above 8C was Creature from the black lagoon (8C), which he did three years ago. Carlo also worked on The Dawn Wall together with Kevin Jorgeson some ten odd years ago. Overall, Carlo has made a case to be considered one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world.

Eight 8a+ to 8b+ onsights by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has been on a โ€family vacationโ€ trip to Malta. "Spending a lot of time with family and getting rest for the hard training ahead of me! It was nice getting to know the small climbing community in Malta ๐Ÿ’ช" In the end, he onsighted eight routes 8a+ and harder, meaning the 30-year-old is approaching 500 such graded onsights. (c) Stephen Farrugia

The hardest onsights on the island were actually (probably) two FAs in Melieha Cave;
Winds of Change (8b+): "Start to the right to Aint Sane in the Membrane, finish like the Down in a Hole. Hard start, then a total nohands and a tricky boulder. Definitely being tall helps. Giving a grade on my onsight try and being 8th 8th-grade route of the day doesn't help. Thanks Simon and Stevo for an amazing day!"

Fight Club (8b): "Start like November Rain, but go direct in the end. probably first ascent? Roof climbing on tufa at its best."

Adam also probably made the FA of a previously chipped route, Tunnel Vision (8b+) in Mgarr Ix-xini. "Short burly route just above the little "tunnel" when you approach the gorge. If you use the chipped pocket in between the 3rd and 4th bolt, it is probably 8a. Without, I think it is pretty hard 8A boulder."

Two 8A+'s and an 8A by Siara Fabbri
Siara Fabbri, who did her first 8B+ in November, has done Les Feux Dazeroth 8A
in Branson, Creatures of Comfort (8A+) in Vernayaz and Taijutsu (8A+) in Val Bavona. (c) Simone Tentori

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
Good weekend here in Val Bavona ๐Ÿ˜. Psyched to send Taijutsu 8A+ today, it's a new block that got put up a month ago.

I had a session last fall on Creatures on my first trip to Vernayaz. I felt close to sending but fell off the last move four times, it's a deep lock off and I kept failing to get this crimp good. In the end, I found some better beta and came back recently, I refreshed myself on the moves, then sent :).

We went after to check out the boulder with Les Feux, but it was really cold so we just climbed a little. We returned the next weekend and I sent Les Feux fairly quickly, but onsighting the mossy top out in the night was spicy. I was psyched to find the right beta for these blocks and send them relatively quickly as I want to improve in optimizing the projecting ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ’ช.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo sends The full journey (9b)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done The full journey (9b) in Margalef. "First repetition after Alex Megos. 4 days of work but I already did the first part one year ago and the second part one week ago." (c) Adri Martinez

The route is a original line linking The journey (9a+) which he did last year and Carlota's journey (9a+) which he did last week. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old is #2 after Adam Ondra.

Updates to the Gallery and prizes to win!
The Gallery relaunch has made finding and sharing climbing inspiration easier. Plus, the quality images submitted ensure that the crag database charges forward and remains a useful tool for every member to use. Sharing your greatest climbing moments now puts you in the prize raffle. All you have to do to enter is upload your photos to the gallery and tag the crag. The more โ€œVengaโ€s your photo gets, the higher your chances of winning, as each โ€œVengaโ€ earns you an additional ticket in the raffle draw at the end of the month. To kick things off, all participants this month will score one month of Vertical-Life Premium, and one lucky climber will receive a one year subscription to Vertical-Life Premium with friends. The winner and four friends will have access to all 5000 crag topos available in the Vertical-Life app. Tap the โ€œLearn moreโ€ button below, in the Gallery, for more info. Best of luck!