Martina Demmel, who was #26 in the Bern WCH, has done La Cabane au Paradis (8c+) in Rawyl. ” Battle against the heat with sweat running all over my face at the top but another good reminder what's possible when the mind is calm & peaceful! Fell in love with the resistency lower part what makes me curious to someday invest more time in "... au Canada". Quick progress resulted in an unexpected 4th try send with the best support by Chris & Leni!! Such a magic moment: we can't force/wait for it, we can only live & enjoy it!” (c) Chris Frick

The day after she onsighted her eleventh route 8b or harder, Gaucho (8b). ” Wooow I'm still shocked & in disbelief about onsighting this bouldery gem! Especially proud of sticking the jump at the top with only a little bit of hesitation;) amazing rock in the middle! Special thx to Chris for cheering me up all the way:)”

Are you 100 % recovered from your latest injury?
Regarding my broken wrist this winter, it's been 4 months now since I was allowed to climb again and I'm very relieved how well it was playing along the last months with almost no pain and consistent improvements😁📈! I'd say that I can do everything with it again but the strength level in the wrist and the whole arm isn't the same yet again and I've developed some kind of fear of getting injured again, so this was probably the hardest part to overcome😅.

What's next on your radar?
Now I'm getting back on plastic for the final preparations for the last 2 Lead WC's and then, it's already time to go back to school for the next 4 months🧚‍♀️🤓.

Sébastien Berthe, one of the very best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has onsighted Ajo Crudo (8c) in Cicera. (c) Christoph Muster

"Fighting my way up this infinite crimpy route with the cheering of good friends was definitely a big moment! This means a lot to me: onsight climbing is a discipline that I truly love and I have always done it a lot! The onsight game is all about finding a good balance between the risks to take and the good beta to have. In order to take the super fast decisions needed, I have the feeling I had to get together all I've learned as a climber, thanks to the km of rocks I've eaten 🥰

Last few weeks and months, I struggled a bit with my climbing: lack of motivation, low shape, quest for meaning... But for two weeks, everything has slowly come back! Now, the least I can say is that I feel back on track.

8c onsight was definitely a big goal of mine for 2023. In the past, I onsighted 8b+ and flashed an 8c (Mind control in Oliana), but onsighting one felt like another game: it's so much about grasping the right moment on the perfect route. During the last two weeks, I tried on 4 different routes and was quite far each time. But somehow, I knew I was getting closer and was capable of doing it!

Ajo Crudo was a really good candidate for an onsight attempt for me: long, crimpy, okay rest between the section, slightly overhanging... My perfect style! I took all the info I could from the ground (thinking about every single detail: shoes, kneebar, clipping), I climbed well, took some risks, had some chance and fought hard. I took the opportunity and truly didn't let it go even if my body has wanted to quit multiple times during the ascent!"

What is coming up next?
All I can tell you is that Rayu and Orbayu are on the list, let's see if it can work!

RockMaster 2023 will be a special edition to celebrate all together the 35 years of our history. The exciting Duel Competition will award the RockMaster 2023 title.

Already confirmed to be present: Janja Garnbret, Jessica Pilz, Brooke Raboutou, Laura Rogora, Camilla Moroni, Natsuki Tanii, Vita Lukan, Hannah Meul, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Stefano Ghisolfi, Toby Roberts, Stefan Scherz, Michael Piccolruaz, Taisei Homma, Jesse Grupper.

The race will be preceded by a meeting with the public, where the journalist Emilio Casalini will tell the history of these 35 years, He will be helped by Adam Ondra, Janja Garnbret, Stefano Ghisolfi, Angela Eiter and Yuji Hirayama. At the end of the competition the party goes on with live music. Exceptionally Free Entrance Detailed program and info: www.rockmaster.com

Japan, South Korea and Thailand won 14 out of 18 medals in Lead at the Youth World Championship in Seoul. As in previous years, Japan was the top-performing nation and took home 11 medals. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

U20:
1. Hannes Van Duysen BEL - Sara Copar SLO
2. Neo Suzuki JPN - Tomona Takao JPN
3. Zento Murashita JPN - Sana Ogura JPN

U18:
1. Kibeom Kwon KOR - Meije Lerondel FRA
2. Shion Omata JPN - Chaeyeong Kim KOR
3. Auswin Aueareechit THA - Moka Mochizuki JPN

U16: (pictured)
1. Ryusei Hamada JPN - Natsumi Oda JPN
2. Hareru Nagamori JPN - Kohana Mugishima JPN
3. Ryota Toda JPN - Geila Macia Martin ESP

"One of my goals for the trip was to flash Sky, but the day before we went to the boulder I had no sleep, and upon reaching the crag, I felt pretty tired. However, I decided I may as well give a flash rip for fun. I had watched a few videos prior where the climbers used a high right foot to keep their body from swinging in the first move, which seemed like the perfect beta for my height. The second crux move is just a pure board style throw, and as that is what I primarily train on, I knew I would have a pretty good chance to top once I hit the first hold. To my surprise, I stuck the first move pretty well, and just kept it together to the top."

Owen Whaley has done Resisting Arrest (9a) at Robbers Roost. "A great feeling, such a fun route. Struggled to get it done throughout my busy summer but it all came together in the end. Great experience!" (c) Rachel Melville

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried “Resisting Arrest” last summer when Joe Kinder made the first ascent. It is a very fun route consisting of bouldery sections, separated by mediocre rests. I tried the route intermittently throughout the summer, but the heat and trips away prevented me from sending. In the end I was able to do it on one of my last days before leaving home and heading back to college, which was very rewarding.

Connor Herson, who last year did the bolted route Empath (9a+) on gear, has posted on Instagram that he has completed six very impressive, and three exceptional, ascents from his last month in Squamish, photo courtesy of Christian Adam.

Cobra Crack (8c) trad: Sonnie Trotter's classic, "always been a dream line of mine".
Crack of destiny (8c) trad: Didier Berthod, 41, did the FA in June.
"This thing is truly Cobra Crack 2.0."
Spirit Quest (9a): "[redpointed it] While waiting for my skin to heal in between sessions on the crack climbs."

Which climb was the most memorable for you?
I think my most memorable ascent was the Crack of destiny - there was such a good crew that day, the energy was great, and I just focused on enjoying the climb. It was certainly the most fun I’ve had on a send go. Plus, my friend got footage and we might release it soon.

It took me 4 sessions. Because it’s so steep (the photos don’t show it, but it’s about 30° overhung), it was easier to try on lead than toprope. Compared to Cobra, the moves were way easier but it was far more sustained and pumpy. The hardest part for me was finding a sequence - the crack is Indian creek style and has very few distinct features, so it was hard to remember a sequence. On my send, I still didn’t have a sequence for the bottom 60% of the crack! On my third session, I got through the crack and fell on the North Star crux at the very top, then I sent it on the first go of my fourth session!

What is coming up next?
As for my next plan, I’m not sure yet how I’ll spend the rest of the summer before school starts. I’ve got a few ideas, but it’ll definitely involve more hard trad!

Have you considered taking on a harder, more involved project?
The 9a took 6 sessions, but I was trying it off and on for the first few. It’s an amazing climb! Sustained, natural slightly overhung granite face climbing. It’s like 5.12- to the fifth bolt then sustained v8-v10 climbing with no good rests but no moves harder than v10 for about 8 more bolts. It has a potential direct finish where you’d do all the hard climbing, then launch with no rest into a v9 into a v7, and then a decent rest into a v10. I was going to spend a lot of time on that, but it was really hard on my skin and the temperatures warmed up too much, but I’d like to go back for that!

The Squamish trip was my first time climbing outside the United States, though, so I wanted to try a lot of climbs instead of focusing on one.

The 19-year-old first made headlines on 8a when he at age 14 did Southern Smoke (8c+) second go and a few months later sent The Nose (8b+) multi-pitch. Last year, we made an interview with the #1 multi-discipline teenage challenger in the world after he had been #12 in the Youth World Championship, where he was runner-up in the qualification. "I think I am just as excited about studying as I am about climbing."

What are you studying? Are you still as keen?
I am on summer break right now and I’ll be starting my second year soon. I’ve been loving it, and I’m excited to go back to school in the fall! I’m still undeclared for my major, but I’m leaning towards electrical engineering. I’ll know for certain by the end of this school year.

What does a normal training week look like when you are at school?
When I’m in school, I take the train to the gym a few times a week to climb. Last year, I was training a lot with Solomon Barth and Maya Madere, and having psyched people to train with makes a huge difference for me! Then on weekends, I try to make it to nearby climbing areas as long as I’m on top of my schoolwork.

Tom O’Halloran made the FA of Hump of Trouble in Blue Mountains last week. The Olympian, who already has done five 9a’s, has not suggested a grade but calls it the hardest route in Australia.

”I bolted the route in 2014. Started trying it seriously in 2017. Then spent 2018 and 2019 fully dedicated to it. 2020 was injury and Olympics prep. 2021 Olympics. 2022 it didn’t dry out due to epic amounts of rain. Then sent after 9 days this year. I think it’s around 60-70 days total. Many days finding beta. Many days with not the best weather or tactics or whatever else, but also many days giving it everything I have and leaving empty handed. Happy to have it over with and thinking about new projects. There are many which have had to be put aside while I tried this project.

I really don’t know about grade. I prepped a lot better this year than previous years. Plus just being a better climber, coming back after nearly four years away. It’s given me the most amount of trouble than any others route. Though I’d named it Hump of Trouble prior to attempting it. It lived up to its name!”

Tanguy Merard, who has already done three 9a+'s in 2023, has started August by sending A muerte bilou (9a) in Verdon. Then he moved to Gorges du Loup where he during ten days sent Trip tik tonik (9a), Just two fix (9a), KinematiX (9a) and Punt'X (9a). (c) H2mimages

"The first step in my trip was in Les gorges du Verdon, I tried "A Muerte Bilou" a 9a opened by Seb Bouin. On the first day, I did the first part (8c+) and on the second day I managed to find a good beta in the second part and on the third day I did the route on my first try. I was really happy because the route was scaring me. Then we (with Marzu) left for the Gorges du Loup. The goal was to do Trip Tik Tonic 9a in one session, it's a classic route from there on beautiful tufas. Finally, I sent it with a headlamp in the dark the first evening. The days after I sent Just two fix 9a and Kinematix 9a. My next goal was to try Punt'x 9a+ with Jules Marchaland. I was very surprised to complete the route in only 10 tries. Today I did Inga 8c+/9a, it's quite an exceptional route because it starts with a boulder in a cave and then ends in an 8c route. The best route was A Muerte Bilou because it is really big and impressive. It is 55m long and with 55° the most overhanging. Now I'm going to finish the trip trying easier routes and cheer on Jules on his tries tomorrow."

What's next on your radar?
A project in Entraygues, Le pamphlet 9a+/9b!? I have put 25/30 sessions I think.

What does a normal climbing week typically consist of for you?
I train from Monday to Thursday and I climb outdoors during the weekend, but this summer I was on holiday so I just climbed outdoors.

Adrian Houbron has done To do list (9a) in La Balme de Yenne. (c) Mathieu Pisaniello

"The route was bolted and climbed for the first time a few years ago by Mathieu Bouyoud. It is really different from the usual style of la Balme de Yenne as it is a slightly overhanging wall with no kneebar or tufa, just pure climbing on small holds. The route starts with a hard boulder problem with a shoulder movement on crimps right after with no rest. There is a section of pure power endurance climbing of approximately 20 moves. The end of the route is not that hard (around 8a), but it is nice to climb and it goes to the very top of the cliff."