22 September 2023
Yannick Flohe does La Force Tranquille
Yannick Flohรฉ, who won the Brixen WC in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woodsโ classic La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood.
โI tried La Force on the first day of the trip after I sent New Base Line and did all the moves quickly. I couldnโt really try though due to classic Magic Wood rainy weather. From then on I tried it two more session but it got worse every day. I feel like Magic Wood in September is either way too warm or wet.
On the 4th session I managed to dry all the holds with a fan after a heavy rain and basically sent the boulder. Unfortunately the slab at the end which is about 6a was still super wet and I had no chance to top out so I came back on the next day and climbed it all the way to the top. I fell only once after the heel hook move and about 30 times at the beginning when my heel slipped after doing the big move to the slot. Anyway nice boulder Iโll come back one day for the direct finish from Jakob.โ
โI tried La Force on the first day of the trip after I sent New Base Line and did all the moves quickly. I couldnโt really try though due to classic Magic Wood rainy weather. From then on I tried it two more session but it got worse every day. I feel like Magic Wood in September is either way too warm or wet.
On the 4th session I managed to dry all the holds with a fan after a heavy rain and basically sent the boulder. Unfortunately the slab at the end which is about 6a was still super wet and I had no chance to top out so I came back on the next day and climbed it all the way to the top. I fell only once after the heel hook move and about 30 times at the beginning when my heel slipped after doing the big move to the slot. Anyway nice boulder Iโll come back one day for the direct finish from Jakob.โ
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