NEWS
12 October 2023
8a and Vertical-Life updates
We have recently implemented several new features and improvements, with a focus on aligning the website and the app. We have made it much easier to see the Vertical-Life app topos when coming from 8a, and implemented several smaller improvements, among them a new date format.
1 - 5000 topos just one click away
Over 5000 crags around the globe are covered in the Vertical-Life app, offering topos, access information, detailed crag descriptions, and offline functionality. They are marked by a colored pin. Via the 'Topos' button on the crag page, we added a link straight into the app to all of these crags. With the app, subscribers can easily navigate to the crag parking, check out the topos, and more.
>>> Use the code "Topo" to get three months of the Outdoor subscription for just one euro! Redeem it here.
2 - New Date Format and other improvements
โข Changed date format to "11 Oct 2023" (from "10/11/2023").
โข You can now click on the followers counts of other profiles to find others you might want to follow
โข Improved 8a search with synonyms (e.g., "Carnage sit" finds "Carnage assis").
โข Fixed search bug hiding non-ranking users.
โข Enhanced the add ascent form, fixing issues with certain names.
3 - Vertical-Life App updates
โข Aris Theodoropoulos' and Katie Rousso's updates for Kalymnos and app-only crags are all available in the app
โข First crags of the new Schweiz Extrem West by Filidor published, more to come.
โข South Tyrol guidebook available in print and app, covering 105 crags, including 11 new ones.
Up next is a big release in which we will synchronise all Vertical-Life and 8a ascents, routes, and logbooks, as well as the look of the app and website.
1 - 5000 topos just one click away
Over 5000 crags around the globe are covered in the Vertical-Life app, offering topos, access information, detailed crag descriptions, and offline functionality. They are marked by a colored pin. Via the 'Topos' button on the crag page, we added a link straight into the app to all of these crags. With the app, subscribers can easily navigate to the crag parking, check out the topos, and more.
>>> Use the code "Topo" to get three months of the Outdoor subscription for just one euro! Redeem it here.
2 - New Date Format and other improvements
โข Changed date format to "11 Oct 2023" (from "10/11/2023").
โข You can now click on the followers counts of other profiles to find others you might want to follow
โข Improved 8a search with synonyms (e.g., "Carnage sit" finds "Carnage assis").
โข Fixed search bug hiding non-ranking users.
โข Enhanced the add ascent form, fixing issues with certain names.
3 - Vertical-Life App updates
โข Aris Theodoropoulos' and Katie Rousso's updates for Kalymnos and app-only crags are all available in the app
โข First crags of the new Schweiz Extrem West by Filidor published, more to come.
โข South Tyrol guidebook available in print and app, covering 105 crags, including 11 new ones.
Up next is a big release in which we will synchronise all Vertical-Life and 8a ascents, routes, and logbooks, as well as the look of the app and website.
Read more
17
212 October 2023
Anak Verhoeven ticks Cosi se Arete (9a)
Anak Verhoeven reports on Instagram that she has completed Cosi se Arete (9a) in . She wound up doing the route two times in one day, finishing off her second redpoint of it by headlamp. In total, the former very successful competition climber has done a dozen routes 9a and harder. More info to come!
"So, I waited until it was completely dark and, in the meantime, I attached my headlamp to my tanktop with a string I had found in my backpack (see last photo). This way it couldnโt drop down in the water and I could also place it back on my head with one hand (I made sure I practiced that first ๐) in case I knocked it off my head. Then I started climbing with a big black void underneath and a circle of light around my head. When looking down I saw the small speck of light from my headlamp reflected in the river. It felt great! I was a little more tired than during the daylight send and I could feel the humidity of the evening. The wall was full of little spiders that had come out at night. I had to move slightly more slowly to see all the holds and be precise, but I just kept going and going and goingโฆ โจI passed the first crux, and the second one. I was sure now that I could do it, but the endurance moves at the end are relentless. A few more movements to goโฆ and I clipped the anchor a second time in the same day! Well, that hadnโt quite been the initial plan when I arrived at the crag that day. But what an amazing, impromptu experience... And that crazy idea I had to climb a 50-meter 9a in the dark actually turned out to be possible. ๐"
How did you prepare for the trip?
I prepared for this trip by training in the gym (climbing lead routes) and at home (power/strength training). I was home for about 3,5 months with an ankle injury. So, I first climbed on one leg for a bit, then I could carefully use both feet again without placing left heel hooks and finally, I was able to climb in a normal way again.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked the moves of the route for 4 or 5 sessions, before doing a first unplanned attempt on a day I had initially wanted to just make some bigger links. I climbed well and fell high up in the last crux due to an issue with a tickmark (and also a horizontally hanging quickdraw karabiner that stuck right into my eye at the hardest move of the route ๐ ). 2 days later I sent the route in my second redpoint attempt. And a few hours later I sent it again, but in the dark with a headlamp.
"So, I waited until it was completely dark and, in the meantime, I attached my headlamp to my tanktop with a string I had found in my backpack (see last photo). This way it couldnโt drop down in the water and I could also place it back on my head with one hand (I made sure I practiced that first ๐) in case I knocked it off my head. Then I started climbing with a big black void underneath and a circle of light around my head. When looking down I saw the small speck of light from my headlamp reflected in the river. It felt great! I was a little more tired than during the daylight send and I could feel the humidity of the evening. The wall was full of little spiders that had come out at night. I had to move slightly more slowly to see all the holds and be precise, but I just kept going and going and goingโฆ โจI passed the first crux, and the second one. I was sure now that I could do it, but the endurance moves at the end are relentless. A few more movements to goโฆ and I clipped the anchor a second time in the same day! Well, that hadnโt quite been the initial plan when I arrived at the crag that day. But what an amazing, impromptu experience... And that crazy idea I had to climb a 50-meter 9a in the dark actually turned out to be possible. ๐"
How did you prepare for the trip?
I prepared for this trip by training in the gym (climbing lead routes) and at home (power/strength training). I was home for about 3,5 months with an ankle injury. So, I first climbed on one leg for a bit, then I could carefully use both feet again without placing left heel hooks and finally, I was able to climb in a normal way again.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked the moves of the route for 4 or 5 sessions, before doing a first unplanned attempt on a day I had initially wanted to just make some bigger links. I climbed well and fell high up in the last crux due to an issue with a tickmark (and also a horizontally hanging quickdraw karabiner that stuck right into my eye at the hardest move of the route ๐ ). 2 days later I sent the route in my second redpoint attempt. And a few hours later I sent it again, but in the dark with a headlamp.
Read more
14
112 October 2023
Angelino Zeller tries to campus Sarre 2000 (8a+)
"Angelino Zeller is a three-time world champion in climbing. He is paralyzed from the waist down due to a paragliding accident.
Angelino has always been active and has also worked professionally as an industrial climber. However, when he returned to indoor climbing during rehab after his accident, a spark ignited. He began to train regularly and to master climbing without using his legs. When climbing, he works solely with his upper body strength to gain momentum to perform the next one-arm pull-up through targeted swinging, a true tour de force.
The Sarree2000 route in the Aosta Valley is his next project. Italian professional climber Stefano Ghisolfi climbed this 8a+ route back in 2015 without using his feet, simply to prove that it can be done.
Read more
17
011 October 2023
The Drew Ruana mini-doc of The Ice Knife
Drew Ruana did the first repeat of Daniel Woods' The Ice Knife (sit-start) (8C+) last year.
Read more
3
411 October 2023
Molly Thompson-Smith rampage including her first 8A flash
Molly Thompson-Smith flashed Verna (8A) and sent three more 8A's last month, which we followed with an interview.
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2
011 October 2023
Zach Galla does the Sound of Violence (8C)
Zach Galla has sent Sound of Violence (8C) in Left Fork. โIโve tried sound of violence on and off ever since I was able to climb the right exit, Pegasus (8C), about 2 years ago. I was always under the impression that Sound was the easier way out the roof but it gave me a good bit more trouble.
What did you mean on Instagram reporting the ascent saying, โKicked off my training deload/soul climbingโ?
Iโve recently been on a heavy comp training grind in preparation for the pan american championship coming up later this month and decided to lower my training volume and enjoy some rock climbing for a week before locking myself back in the gym. The body and mind are now reset and Iโm stoked for the Pan ams!
In 2020, Zach was runner-up in Pan-Am Championship after Colin Duffy, where he was beaten by one try to the zone on one boulder. The winner of the Panamerican Championship 2023 will get an Olympic ticket to Paris.
What did you mean on Instagram reporting the ascent saying, โKicked off my training deload/soul climbingโ?
Iโve recently been on a heavy comp training grind in preparation for the pan american championship coming up later this month and decided to lower my training volume and enjoy some rock climbing for a week before locking myself back in the gym. The body and mind are now reset and Iโm stoked for the Pan ams!
In 2020, Zach was runner-up in Pan-Am Championship after Colin Duffy, where he was beaten by one try to the zone on one boulder. The winner of the Panamerican Championship 2023 will get an Olympic ticket to Paris.
Read more
10
010 October 2023
Theo Blass, 13, does La Folle Histoire Immonde 8c+/9a
Theo Blass has made the first repeat of Seb Bouinโs La Folle Histoire Immonde 8c+/9a in Thaurac. The wonderkid did his first 8c at age 10 and over a year ago he sent Trip tik tonik (9a). Photo (c) Laurent Dormont
โThe route is a real gem - a long steep route on tufas, crimps and slopers with beautiful and powerful moves - it has many hard sections with more or less good rests between. It is located in Thaurac, one of the mostly old school areas around Montpellier (think desperate run-out 7As on tiny crimps and shallow pockets with polished foodholds).
It has many hard sections separated by more or less good rests and a final bouldery crux on bad crimps. I first tried the route a couple of years ago when I was 11. I was making good progress at the time but a low percentage move in the middle (which is really hard when you are short) frustrated me and I gave the route and myself a break. I did not try it for a couple of years and then got back on it a month ago. It was still very hot in the area so I only had the time to do a couple of tries per session. I quickly realised that, being stronger and taller than 2 years ago meant that the route was much more fun to try - I did all the moves and sections easily and after 2-3 sessions was ready to give it a red point try.
The mental battle took another 2-3 sessions (I was so anxious before the final crux that I was feeling nauseous and did not even want to fight). I guess I needed some time to readjust to the pressure of trying long hard sport routes (I was mainly bouldering or doing easier routes during the summer). On the day of the send, I was feeling weightless. I understand exactly what people mean by "flow" or being in the zone. I was climbing with my body in the sun and the rock still in the shade. Such an amazing feeling.
It is great fun to try an old project when you are older and your body has changed. Sometimes I think that moves that I did as a child may feel harder if I try them as I grow up (as the holds will be smaller and I will be heavier). But the reality is that with more reach, power and experience almost all the routes now feel much easier (probably except for tiny pockets, but I never really liked climbing on pockets - its boring).โ
โThe route is a real gem - a long steep route on tufas, crimps and slopers with beautiful and powerful moves - it has many hard sections with more or less good rests between. It is located in Thaurac, one of the mostly old school areas around Montpellier (think desperate run-out 7As on tiny crimps and shallow pockets with polished foodholds).
It has many hard sections separated by more or less good rests and a final bouldery crux on bad crimps. I first tried the route a couple of years ago when I was 11. I was making good progress at the time but a low percentage move in the middle (which is really hard when you are short) frustrated me and I gave the route and myself a break. I did not try it for a couple of years and then got back on it a month ago. It was still very hot in the area so I only had the time to do a couple of tries per session. I quickly realised that, being stronger and taller than 2 years ago meant that the route was much more fun to try - I did all the moves and sections easily and after 2-3 sessions was ready to give it a red point try.
The mental battle took another 2-3 sessions (I was so anxious before the final crux that I was feeling nauseous and did not even want to fight). I guess I needed some time to readjust to the pressure of trying long hard sport routes (I was mainly bouldering or doing easier routes during the summer). On the day of the send, I was feeling weightless. I understand exactly what people mean by "flow" or being in the zone. I was climbing with my body in the sun and the rock still in the shade. Such an amazing feeling.
It is great fun to try an old project when you are older and your body has changed. Sometimes I think that moves that I did as a child may feel harder if I try them as I grow up (as the holds will be smaller and I will be heavier). But the reality is that with more reach, power and experience almost all the routes now feel much easier (probably except for tiny pockets, but I never really liked climbing on pockets - its boring).โ
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15
010 October 2023
Janja Garnbret is sending for fun in Magic Wood
Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she on her first day, "From the beach straight to Magic Wood", sent Sofa Surfer (8A+), Foxy Lady (8A), Octopussy (8A) and Jack's broken heart (8A+). The latter she flashed and then then just the other day she made "quick work" of Massive Attack (8A+). We also have been informed that she has done New base line (8B+), which she has yet to report.
Since Janja took home the Olympic Gold in Tokyo she has done 20 IFSC competitions, out of which she has won 17 and been runner-up three times. The 24-year-old won her first world championship in 2016 and in total, she has won eight more. On rock, the Slovenian has done two 9a's, onsighted four 8c's and bouldered 8B+.
Since Janja took home the Olympic Gold in Tokyo she has done 20 IFSC competitions, out of which she has won 17 and been runner-up three times. The 24-year-old won her first world championship in 2016 and in total, she has won eight more. On rock, the Slovenian has done two 9a's, onsighted four 8c's and bouldered 8B+.
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29
1110 October 2023
Andrine Skilbrei redpoints The Troll Hammer (8c)
Andrine Skilbrei, who this spring did her first 8c+, has sent The Troll Hammer (8c) in Flatanger. (c) Andrea Cossu
"Iโve not been climbing much lately as I am working on my masterโs, so I was a bit surprised I was in the shape to do it in what little time I actually spent in the cave climbing. Because of my limited time to climb I choose this route mostly to have something to get in shape on as I have done the first part Dvergtrollet (8a+) a couple of years back, and Iโve also been up in the upper part a couple of times before and really liked the climbing up there.
In the end it turned out quite well for me, I felt little pressure and just enjoyed getting out of the house and climbing a bit, not really caring too much if I sent or not. Not to say I wasn't really happy when I did it!โ
"Iโve not been climbing much lately as I am working on my masterโs, so I was a bit surprised I was in the shape to do it in what little time I actually spent in the cave climbing. Because of my limited time to climb I choose this route mostly to have something to get in shape on as I have done the first part Dvergtrollet (8a+) a couple of years back, and Iโve also been up in the upper part a couple of times before and really liked the climbing up there.
In the end it turned out quite well for me, I felt little pressure and just enjoyed getting out of the house and climbing a bit, not really caring too much if I sent or not. Not to say I wasn't really happy when I did it!โ
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5
09 October 2023
Christof Rauch completes Foundations Edge
Christof Rauch, who already has fourteen 8Cโs to his name, has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. The 29-year-old is approaching 1 000 boulders 8A and harder but during the last 12 months he has โonlyโ done 61 and this was his first 8C in 18 months.
โThis one means a lot to me! I had a few trips over the last years and around 10 sessions on the boulder. This year I finally did it, first day back at it. It feels amazing and somehow surreal to close this chapter and climb one of my dream lines! Syked! Onto the next!
Solid work! You've been a little quiet up until now this year. What else have you been up to?
[It's] Probably due to work, building a house and some small injuries [I've had]. At the moment I also have a small finger injury on my right index finger. I canโt do some things but finally feel in a quite good shape again. Another problem is that I donโt have many cool boulder projects left around my home. I still work full time and also have a week of beeing on call for work every 5 weeks, so I canโt travel on these weekends."
Can you tell us more about Foundation and the challenge it posed?
[Ever] Since I saw the video of the first ascent by Dave Graham I was inspired by the line. A few years later, in 2019, I had my first trip to Fionnay. Back then I wanted to do some easier boulders but couldnโt resist to check out the moves of โFoundations Edgeโ. To my surprise it went not so bad and I managed to do all the moves and already some small links. The weather was against us that trip and I couldnโt go back for another session. Syke was high and I went back the next year. This time I felt better on the moves and managed to climb it in 2 parts. Sadfully the weather turned bad again and I only had 2 days on the climb.
2022 I decided to go back for another round. The weather was better but still a bit too warm for my taste. I came really close to send it that time but went home empty handed. With the boulder in my mind I just had to go for another trip a few weeks later. This time the conditions were better and I came painfully close, it feels like I should have sent it but my mind played against me. I was nervous, made mistakes and just wanted it too bad.
One year later it was time to go back, I planned some days to get the moves dialed again and even another trip later to have more chances. After a long drive I already realized at the warmup on the fingerboard that I feel pretty strong, then I immediately made some big links. First real try I fell on the last really hard move, mind-games kicked in again and I got really nervous. Then I had some medium good tries were I felt strong but always made some small mistakes. I knew I could do it, I only had to calm down a bit.
So I really focused on that and went for it. I climbed not perfectly but somehow still stayed on the wall. After the crux I almost messed it up due to hesitation and then I almost messed it up going to the jug. Climbing the easier but high topout felt amazing. I finally did it, first day of the season, I couldnโt believe it! Syked!
โThis one means a lot to me! I had a few trips over the last years and around 10 sessions on the boulder. This year I finally did it, first day back at it. It feels amazing and somehow surreal to close this chapter and climb one of my dream lines! Syked! Onto the next!
Solid work! You've been a little quiet up until now this year. What else have you been up to?
[It's] Probably due to work, building a house and some small injuries [I've had]. At the moment I also have a small finger injury on my right index finger. I canโt do some things but finally feel in a quite good shape again. Another problem is that I donโt have many cool boulder projects left around my home. I still work full time and also have a week of beeing on call for work every 5 weeks, so I canโt travel on these weekends."
Can you tell us more about Foundation and the challenge it posed?
[Ever] Since I saw the video of the first ascent by Dave Graham I was inspired by the line. A few years later, in 2019, I had my first trip to Fionnay. Back then I wanted to do some easier boulders but couldnโt resist to check out the moves of โFoundations Edgeโ. To my surprise it went not so bad and I managed to do all the moves and already some small links. The weather was against us that trip and I couldnโt go back for another session. Syke was high and I went back the next year. This time I felt better on the moves and managed to climb it in 2 parts. Sadfully the weather turned bad again and I only had 2 days on the climb.
2022 I decided to go back for another round. The weather was better but still a bit too warm for my taste. I came really close to send it that time but went home empty handed. With the boulder in my mind I just had to go for another trip a few weeks later. This time the conditions were better and I came painfully close, it feels like I should have sent it but my mind played against me. I was nervous, made mistakes and just wanted it too bad.
One year later it was time to go back, I planned some days to get the moves dialed again and even another trip later to have more chances. After a long drive I already realized at the warmup on the fingerboard that I feel pretty strong, then I immediately made some big links. First real try I fell on the last really hard move, mind-games kicked in again and I got really nervous. Then I had some medium good tries were I felt strong but always made some small mistakes. I knew I could do it, I only had to calm down a bit.
So I really focused on that and went for it. I climbed not perfectly but somehow still stayed on the wall. After the crux I almost messed it up due to hesitation and then I almost messed it up going to the jug. Climbing the easier but high topout felt amazing. I finally did it, first day of the season, I couldnโt believe it! Syked!
Read more
16
1Favorites
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
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48Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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81Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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69Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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