NEWS

Je Tโ€™Aime in Kalymnos restored
Je Tโ€™Aime is an afternoon shade crag, close to the road in between Arginonta and Vathy, that has been restored. It is a peaceful crag far from โ€œnoisyโ€ Masouri, with quite a few easy routes in addition to the overhangs.

For years, many of the routes at Je Tโ€™Aime were free projects with question marks. Furthermore, the bolts were poorly placed, routes were never properly cleaned, and the bolts used were of poor quality. This was unfortunate, because the rock quality is good.

Between spring 2023/spring 2024, the crag began to be completely restored. Niels Abegglen, in collaboration with Aris Theodoropoulos, checked the routes, replaced bad bolts, and cleaned loose rock. Whichever routes made no sense (some lines were absurd and unclimbable) were de-bolted. New, well-bolted, interesting routes were equipped in their place.

All bolts and anchors used in the restoration of Je Tโ€™Aime were provided by Climb Kalymnos using proceeds from the sale of this guidebook. Je Tโ€™Aime is expected to become quite popular, thanks to afternoon shade, good bolting, and proximity to the road, much like nearby sector Griffig. Stay tuned.

Aris, can you tell us more about the crag?
Climbing: Varied climbing on good rock: compact vertical or slightly overhanging walls, plus some slabby climbing on the Right Slabs.
Conditions: Cool and shady, good for afternoon climbing hot days. Protected from the north wind. Shade (Exposure: SE, S) Mostly after 13:00.
Kids: OK, if they can make it up the first part of the path (fixed rope). There are some good areas around the cliffs.
Approach: Walking time, 3โ€“10 minutes. From Masouri, drive to Arginonta. Then, turn right on to the road to Vathy. Drive to the top of the road, then start driving downhill. Park approximately 800m past the col with a shelter (36.997302, 26.984322). You will see the cliffs on the right. Walk up the fixed rope to the main cliff (Arena), and from there to the other parts of the crag.

Je Tโ€™ Aime is already available in the Vertical Life - Kalymnos Guidebook app.

Owen Whaley does Moonshine (9a)
Owen Whaley, with five 9aโ€™s under his belt, has repeated BJ Tildenโ€™s Moonshine (9a) in The Remuda. โ€œFelt great to finish this one off. First tried it in 2020, Iโ€™ve came a long way since then. The send felt just how I expected, hit all the holds right and found myself at the top. Props to Bj for the contribution. Tried to look for the bottle of moonshine after the send. No success.โ€

Team Japan dominate in Briancon
Team Japan had seven guys in the Top-9 including all three podiums; Zento Murashita, Satone Yoshida and Shion Omata, who also were the only three topping the semifinal. (c) Jan Virt/IFSC

Among the female, Mei Kotake won ahead of Laura Rogora and Mattea Pรถtzi. It should be noted that out of the 40 climbers going to Paris, Rogora was the only one participating in Briancon. Complete results.

Kotake: โ€œI still canโ€™t believe I have won my first gold. Itโ€™s been a long journey for me to get on the World Cup podium. With many of the top climbers not competing, I thought it was my time to win, and Iโ€™m happy I made it.โ€

Murashita: โ€œIโ€™m very happy, this result is a bit surprising to me. I was able to climb to my limit, and climb very well.โ€

Michaela Kiersch does three 8Aโ€™s in a day
Michaela Kiersch has had a great start of her first trip to Rocklands by sending eleven boulders 7C+ to 8B, including three flashes. Yesterday, she did Pendragon (8A), Out of Balance (8A) and Nutsa (8A).

Can you take us through the productive day?
I warmed up on the top moves of Pendragon [in the picture] which I tried my first day straight off the plane practically. I sent 2nd try from the ground today. Then I went to Out of Balance and sent first try today. And then I tried Nutsa, which I didnโ€™t get to on my first day and was successful 3rd try after figuring out my beta.

How have the first days in Rocklands been?
First ten days have been extremely rainy and sad but the weather is better now! Today was only my second full climbing day here, because of the rain it has been many rest days and only a few short sessions between storms.

We have reached the finish line!

The Vertical-Life Climb to Paris Challenge powered by Mammut has come to an end. The global climbing community has completed the world's longest collective multi-pitch that started in Tokyo and traveled through Badami, Brixen, and Lenzburg before topping out in Paris.

Over 28,000 climbers scaled 14,000,000 meters on this journey that took us four months to complete. Every ascent logged on Vertical-Life during this timeframe went towards the total distance and goal of reaching Paris before the start of the Olympic Games on July 26th. It took 668,988 ascents to get us there just ahead of the world's best competitive climbers arriving to compete for medals on August 5th. We look forward to cheering them on and watching the show that they are bound to deliver in just a few weeks!

Although this epic climb has ended, the fun has not, as it's now time for the final prize raffle! We will not only raffle off select prizes provided by Mammut and Vertical-Life to all participants and to the climbing gym that has contributed the most ascents, but one lucky premium subscriber who participated in the challenge will win an exclusive climbing day with Adam Ondra. The winners will be selected at random and notified by email.

Keep an eye on your inbox; you might be the winner!

Samuel Richard, 16, does Power of now direct (8C)
Samuel Richard, who last April sent The Big Island (8C), has completed power of now direct (8C) in Magic Wood. โ€œ2nd repeat after Simon Lorenzi. Too short to try the 8b+ so I tried the direct one. Really cool one.โ€ (c) Chossy Shots

The 16-year-old was #19 in the Innsbruck World Cup three weeks ago after having won the qualification.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It took me 3 sessions to send it. I managed to do all the moves in 1 or 2 hours, but I really felt I needed more energy to send.

In the second sesh I was a bit tired, I tried to put send tries but it was not that great. Then I took 2 days off and in the first real try I put on the 3rd sesh I send the boulder. It was really impressive to see how it was changing to take 2 days off in terms of energy.

Iโ€™m training for the internationals comp, and it was kinda of my only outdoor holidays. So itโ€™s nice to do some hard boulders in Swiss :)

What is your climbing background and which comps are coming up next?
Actually, I have been climbing for 13 years. My parents are active climbers and with my dad I used to do a lot of routes but I never did outside bouldering until the last two years. With my bouldering background in comps I managed to quickly send hard boulders :)

My next comps is possibly the European championship in Villars but itโ€™s not sure yet. Then the World Cup in Prague.

Naoki Shimatani does G-Master (8C)
Naoki Shimatani reports with an Instagram video that he has sent G-master (8C) in Rocklands. His big project is The Finnish Line (8C) where he has already spent more than 15 sessions on.

Can you tell us more about G-Master?
G-Master took me about 4 hours to send. I was worried if I could reach the intense cross move, but I managed to handle it somehow. The crucial part of the later half, The guest list (8B) involved a distant left-hand deadpoint after the cross move, making it challenging with decreased accuracy. Even the subsequent lip moves were demanding, with full focus required for each move. In terms of grades, it feels 1.5 to 2 grades harder than The Guestlist.

Franzi Sterrer does two 8Aโ€™s in Silvretta
Franzi Sterrer, who was #19 in Innsbruck three weeks ago, has done Shining (8A) and Big Belinda (8A) in Silvretta. (c) Sebastian Schiefer

Can you tell us more about the 8A ascents and your future competition plans?
The past few years have been pretty busy competing in both disciplines lead and Boulder. As I decided to focus more on bouldering again after the Olympic Qualifying series I have way more time to climb outside too. I always tried to find a mental escape from competition climbing and training in the gym and I always tried to find it in other sports but nothing felt as natural and fun to me as climbing. So I am pretty happy I found a way to enjoy rock climbing as much as I am doing now and I am excited to push my own limits and set myself some goals outside of competition climbing.

Silvretta was just a perfect place to start gaining some experiences as there are so many great lines. Shining definitely was my favourite so far because it challenged me from start until the last few moves. I felt so welcomed in the community I already learned a lot from everyone I met the past few days and I look forward to spending even more time outside this summer.

Jesรบs Muรฑoz Vaquero (Chuchi), who previously has opened over 40 boulders 8A+ to 8C, has done the FA of Metrรณpolis (8A+) in Hoya moros.

Can you tell us more about the boulder?
This area, in the west of Spain, is where I started climbing and is my favorite area of โ€‹โ€‹all the bouldering areas in Spain. I have climbed a lot in this valley and now I am opening new lines on the blocks that have always been there. "Metropolis" is a clear example of this. Being in this remote valley, at 2000m altitude and climbing blocks like this imposing radioactive green ridge given by the lichen makes you feel as if you were climbing in a place far from Earth.

"Metrรณpolis" is the name of the extinct cyber cafe in my hometown that I went to when I was young. The connection between both such disparate places is that fluorescent green color that I mentioned before.

Several years ago I saw it and cleaned it, but I didn't decide to try it until this year because there was a movement that felt very hard. However, I found a method and a sequence that made climbing much easier.

How is it possible that such a stunning line has not been opened before?
In Hoyamoros there are still very impressive lines to climb and many others to open. The reason is that people are too lazy to walk for 1 hour and 30 minutes with bouldering pads. It's also normal, but for me it's not a problem ๐Ÿ˜„.

Jun Shibanuma completes Dreamcatcher (9a)
Jun Shibanuma has repeated Chris Sharmaโ€™s Dreamcatcher (9a) in Squamish, after having projected it for 13 sessions over two years. In April, we reported on the five 8C's he had completed and he mentioned at that time that Dreamcatcher was a future goal. In a few days, he's flying to Brazil for a month-long trip where he plans on trying Origens (8c+). (c) Victoria Kohner-Flanagan

What was the secret to sending Dreamcatcher?
Just donโ€™t give up! [My] Redpoint try went really perfect, I was able to move really smoothly.