3 April 2024

Jun Shibanuma quietly completes five 8C's...

Jun Shibanuma is the second Japanese climber, after Yuta Imaizumi, that we've recently reported on who has done five 8C's, including Hydrangea (8C) in Shiobara and Byakudo (8C) in Horai.

What is your climbing background?
I got to know about free climbing when I was a high school student. I was very interested in climbing but I could not start until I entered Kyoto-university and their climbing club. I trained and climbed outdoors for 6 years and also got my Masters. I prefer to climb outside than the competition.

I work in a company which has nothing to do with Climbing. I’m just an office worker but I work remotely so I could go to Squamish and Brazil last year. I enjoyed climbing while I was working during the daytime. I train on weekdays and go outdoors during the weekends. Sometimes I tried my project in the morning before work.

What does a normal climbing week look like for you?
I usually train on Tuesday and Wednesday and take 2 days' rest for Saturday’s best try. Then I enjoy casual climbing on Sunday. But it depends on the weather. If I have a project, sometimes I try it on Wednesday morning before work.

What is your next plan?
I plan to go to Squamish and Brazil again to revenge Dreamcatcher 9a and Origens 8C/C+ this summer. In Japan, I’m interested in exploring a new climbing area in Hiei. There are numerous untouched projects around the mountain. I’m also interested in challenging [myself to] V16 [8C+]. Nayuta and Floatin are on my list.
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