3 April 2024
Jun Shibanuma quietly completes five 8C's...
Jun Shibanuma is the second Japanese climber, after Yuta Imaizumi, that we've recently reported on who has done five 8C's, including Hydrangea (8C) in Shiobara and Byakudo (8C) in Horai.
What is your climbing background?
I got to know about free climbing when I was a high school student. I was very interested in climbing but I could not start until I entered Kyoto-university and their climbing club. I trained and climbed outdoors for 6 years and also got my Masters. I prefer to climb outside than the competition.
I work in a company which has nothing to do with Climbing. Iโm just an office worker but I work remotely so I could go to Squamish and Brazil last year. I enjoyed climbing while I was working during the daytime. I train on weekdays and go outdoors during the weekends. Sometimes I tried my project in the morning before work.
What does a normal climbing week look like for you?
I usually train on Tuesday and Wednesday and take 2 days' rest for Saturdayโs best try. Then I enjoy casual climbing on Sunday. But it depends on the weather. If I have a project, sometimes I try it on Wednesday morning before work.
What is your next plan?
I plan to go to Squamish and Brazil again to revenge Dreamcatcher 9a and Origens 8C/C+ this summer. In Japan, Iโm interested in exploring a new climbing area in Hiei. There are numerous untouched projects around the mountain. Iโm also interested in challenging [myself to] V16 [8C+]. Nayuta and Floatin are on my list.
What is your climbing background?
I got to know about free climbing when I was a high school student. I was very interested in climbing but I could not start until I entered Kyoto-university and their climbing club. I trained and climbed outdoors for 6 years and also got my Masters. I prefer to climb outside than the competition.
I work in a company which has nothing to do with Climbing. Iโm just an office worker but I work remotely so I could go to Squamish and Brazil last year. I enjoyed climbing while I was working during the daytime. I train on weekdays and go outdoors during the weekends. Sometimes I tried my project in the morning before work.
What does a normal climbing week look like for you?
I usually train on Tuesday and Wednesday and take 2 days' rest for Saturdayโs best try. Then I enjoy casual climbing on Sunday. But it depends on the weather. If I have a project, sometimes I try it on Wednesday morning before work.
What is your next plan?
I plan to go to Squamish and Brazil again to revenge Dreamcatcher 9a and Origens 8C/C+ this summer. In Japan, Iโm interested in exploring a new climbing area in Hiei. There are numerous untouched projects around the mountain. Iโm also interested in challenging [myself to] V16 [8C+]. Nayuta and Floatin are on my list.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
Akira Waku, who at age 48 did Hydrangea (8C) in 2019 , has repeated Ryuichi Murai's Birth of the Cool (8B+) in Shiobara. Waku started climbing at 35 and didn't have any previous sports background. As there was no gym around he built one which he still runs.Can you tell us more about your second 8C?
โฆ
13 November 2025
Han Seuran does Catharsis (8B+)
Han Seuran, who last autumn successfully climbed Puro Dreaming (8c+), has now, after only six sessions, completed Catharsis (8B+) at Shiobara. Back in 2011, Tomโฆ
8 November 2022
Gakido 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai, who previously has done three 8C+ FAs, has made the second ascent of Shinichiro Nomuraโs Gakido (8C+) in Chigobutai. Two weeks ago, he did one moโฆ
Related news
Akira Waku, who at age 48 did Hydrangea (8C) in 2019 , has repeated Ryuichi Murai's Birth of the Cool (8B+) in Shiobara. Waku started climbing at 35 and didn't have any previous sports background. As there was no gym around he built one which he still runs.Can you tell us more about your second 8C?
โฆ
13 November 2025
Han Seuran does Catharsis (8B+)
Han Seuran, who last autumn successfully climbed Puro Dreaming (8c+), has now, after only six sessions, completed Catharsis (8B+) at Shiobara. Back in 2011, Tomโฆ
8 November 2022
Gakido 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai, who previously has done three 8C+ FAs, has made the second ascent of Shinichiro Nomuraโs Gakido (8C+) in Chigobutai. Two weeks ago, he did one moโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ