Nicholas Allan has repeated James Webb’s Khoikhoi (8C) at N1. ”Easily my proudest send to date!” (c) Rowan Toselli

Webb put it up ten years ago and commented, ”Absolutely stunning boulder problem. Potentially one of my proudest first ascents. Perfect compression on just barely there slopers leading up a pristine 20 foot tall boulder.”

The 17-year-old did his first 8A+ at age eleven and sent his first 8B+, four years later, comments, ”I first tried Khoikhoi in march and was immediately psyched on it. I wasn’t able to try it as much as I wanted because it’s very condition dependent but always had it in the back of my mind. The weather was never good and I wasn’t able to give it any close ground burns until my 6th session where I dropped the top several times. Went back the next day and managed to send it second go from the bottom. One of the best boulders I’ve done and so psyched for it to be my first 8C!”

What is coming up next?
I have some projects in mind for next season but my main focus for now is youth worlds in August.

Alex Totkova has repeated Daniel Woods' Crystal Vein (8B) in Rila Monastery. During the last three Lead World Cups this summer, the 19-year-old has been 6-15-5.

"After the past WC’s I knew I wanted to make that boulder, to restart a bit in nature. Made one session last year in September and these days I had 2 night-morning sessions to do it between the preparation for future comps. I am mostly happy that mentally I persevered. I knew I could send it through it in that short time. It was just patience. Something similar to competitions. Fell 2 times from the Top and then realised I made the wrong beta with my left hand for this move. It was a small correction but totally at the right time… Rila mountain has been my lovely place since childhood not only because of the amazing rocks but also from the beautiful monastery."

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has onsighted the 55 meter long Nordic flower (8c) in Flatanger. “One of the best route I ever climb in this grade. What a fight!” (c) Marco Müller

This was the fifth 8c onsight for the 25-year-old and he is #2 in the Vertical-Life ranking game. Now the Spaniard has started to project Change (9b+).

Marco Müller has repeated Adam Ondra's Thor's Hammer (9a) in Flatanger. The original FA grade in 2012 was 9a+ but later Adam and others suggested a downgrade due to better beta and kneepads. (c) Leo Bøe

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a couple of tries on Thor's Hammer two years ago, but I couldn’t continue because I injured my knee at that time. So, I was eager to try again this year. The first sessions on the route went great; I quickly found some beta and started making links and attempts from the ground. After getting stuck at the same move at the first crux for a couple of days, I needed to tweak my beta. I discovered a new, easier sequence, and in the same session, I climbed through the entire first part of the route and fell in 'Nordic Plumber' (Thor's Hammer continues into Nordic Plumber after about 25m, making the total route around 60m). I was super pumped and fell on what is probably the easiest part of Plumber. I needed a few more tries to climb through the first part again, and this time, I fought my way up without falling on Plumber. I had a huge fight at the final rail, and even clipping the chains were at my limit.

Dylan Chuat, who earlier this spring did his first 9a+, has made the FA of Big nose (8C) and repeated Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. (c) Sebastien Maflin

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
After a major cleaning session with Clément Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, it’s one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. It’s impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!

I took a while to decide on the grade because it’s much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C I’ve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago 😅). However, I wasn’t in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and I’ve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!

Finja Perschmann has, during her first session, sent Scary Christmas (8A) at Gotthardpass. The 11-year-old got inspired from Greta di Biase who, last year, sent it at age 10.

What was most challenging with the ascent?
The hardest part was to trust my feet and place them so they wouldn’t slip. The second challenge was to keep my nerves together, as I absolutely wanted to send it in this (first) session.

What is her climbing background and how much does she climb during the winter and summer seasons?
[Axel and Katinka] We both climb for a long time and have always had our focus on rock climbing over competitions. Since we moved to Freiburg in 2014 and started working life time on rock has sadly reduced significantly, but we still find some time for regular climbing trips. While home, we are both active coaches for the local youth climbing teams in Freiburg. Finja (and Merle) consequently joined us on many climbing trips since their birth, grew into the climbing teams early and successively started to enjoy the sport more and more.

For about two years Finja has been pretty hooked on improving her skills. She really enjoys the time with her friends in the climbing team and has fun competing. Currently, she trains regularly twice a week in our training team, plus some extra sessions every few weeks with the Stützpunkt Süd-West. Additionally, when she gets the chance she joins us parents or friends during climbing sessions.

Jonathan Siegrist has done The Ritual (9a) at The Temple. In total, the 38-year-old has now sent 79 routes 9a to 9b. ”Bad ass route. Long RH move at the end of the traverse was my definitive crux. Some left over fitness from Swiss helped me get through the second half. Loved climbing on this thing, fingers feel ready now for the neighbor!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your latest trip to Europe?
There’s a really unique area in Ten Sleep canyon with steep clean rock called ‘The Temple’. Matt Wendling bolted some futuristic lines back in the mid 2000’s and in the last several years BJ Tilden opened 2 of these projects at 9a. Both are amazing! ‘The Ritual’ is a bit easier so I started on this one with the hope that it would help train my fingers for ‘Pneuma’ (its more bouldery neighbor).

Earlier in July I was in Chamonix for the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy and decided to extend my trip for a week to check out some of the climbing around Martigny, Swiss. I was so psyched on some of the new stuff there! For sure it was clear that I need to come back next year for more.

Mei Kotake, who won the Lead World Cup in Briancon two weeks ago, has completed New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.

What is your next project?
I’m working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. I’ll go back there next spring.

Eva Hammelmüller has done M'enfin (8c) in La Saume. During the last week, the 24-year-old has now done five routes 8b+ and beyond. (c) Felix Mast

”The latest 8c I climbed definitely felt not easy for the grade. The holds on this climb are tiny, and the moves require unique body positions. As it was our last day in La Saume (and the third climbing day in a row😅) I knew I had to make every attempt count, and I am happy to have climbed this cool route within a few goes!”

Michaela Kiersch is about setting a new standard in Rocklands by adding Green Mamba (8A+) and The Master Key (8B) to her list. In total, she has now done 16 boulders 7C+ and harder during her first 18 days. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I worked Master key last week and sorted out my beta fairly quickly. After a couple of tries from the bottom I ripped two very deep, bloody splits in my tips. It’s been a week and they are healed and I was able to do it in 2 tries today. I then went over to Green Mamba and after sorting my beta I sent 2nd try from the start, maybe 20 minutes. Maybe 6 tries total when counting working moves.