29 August 2024
Lily Abriat and Ritsu Kayotani win U20 boulder
Ritsu Kayotani, Boulder Youth World Champion in 2022 and 2023, got his third straight gold by winning the U20 category in Guiyang. "Iโm happy, especially after completing all of the boulders. I knew if I could get the last boulder I would have the win, so I was just focused and thinking about climbing. As soon as I reached the top, I was just happy to win and get the gold for the third year in a row."
Among the girls, Lily Abrait, who got the bronze last year, won by being the only one topping three boulders in the final. "I still donโt really believe it; it feels so special. It was just amazing to climb with those strong girls and I had fun throughout the whole competition. Itโs my first time here in China and Iโm not disappointed at all. I was third last year and my goal of this year was to get the gold, so I am glad I did it." Complete results
Among the girls, Lily Abrait, who got the bronze last year, won by being the only one topping three boulders in the final. "I still donโt really believe it; it feels so special. It was just amazing to climb with those strong girls and I had fun throughout the whole competition. Itโs my first time here in China and Iโm not disappointed at all. I was third last year and my goal of this year was to get the gold, so I am glad I did it." Complete results
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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