Sera Gearhart, who just the last year has sent 18 boulders 8A and beyond, has done Lone Wolf (8A+) in Burnside Lake. In the VL ranking game, the 27-year-old is #2 after Caroline Sinno.

”It’s a link up near Tahoe! I did the 8A when I lived here a few years ago. I’m in town for a day and thought I could do the 12 [8A+] since it’s a power endurance line.”

Elisa Lauretano has completed Black Mamba (8B) in Rifugio Barbara - Lowrie. This was the first 8B for the 24-year-old Italian who earlier in 2024, has sent eight boulders 8A or 8A+.

"I discovered this line last summer, and after fantasizing about it all winter, I started seriously trying it in mid-August. It seemed crazy, but I really wanted to try something at my limit that I could put my heart and soul into. I started taking all my pads to the block so I could try it on my own, at my own pace, and find all my methods. Every day I discovered a new feeling, a new turn of the foot, improved small sections. Meanwhile, the hunger to try it was growing.

On a Saturday with excellent conditions, I found myself for the first time under the block, with my friends who were there to support me. I was still far from feeling that it was possible. I started to try it and to my astonishment, I fell in the last moves. At that moment I realized it was really possible! I was thrilled! Then, after a week of tension and a snowfall to complicate everything, the day arrived. I started to warm up and felt light. The conditions were bad, it was drizzling, but I didn't care: I was going to climb the block!"

Andrea Chelleris has been on a trip to Saint Léger focusing on onsight. During three climbing days, the 15-year-old onsighted eight routes 7c+ and beyond including Abregenief (8b). Three years ago, he onsighted his first 8a+ as well as redpointed an 8c+/9a. In the last season, he won the Italian Championships in Slalom, Lead and Boulder.

Which were your most memorable onsights and did you come close on other harder routes?
I think the best onsights were Abregenief and Le placard (8a+) because these were the most classic but I enjoyed a lot all the other onsight in La baleine. I came close to onsight Collection automne hiver (8b+) and also Le mur des cyclopes (8b).

How long do you observe to find the best beta?
When I onsight I do a long observation, possibly more than 20 minutes, to find out the best beta but sometimes I miss some holds like on le mur de Cyclopes. This trip I became better at it but in some situations, I still changed the beta because the way I planned to make the move was impossible.

What are your autumn and winter (skiing) plans?
From this year, I decided not to ski anymore and focus on climbing and competitions. It was too hard to do both and I wasn’t enjoying that at all because in ski and also climbing I was really bad at first comp because I didn’t have time to get into shape. I chose the sport that I liked most.

From the fifteen of October I will be in Villanueva del Rosario and there I would like to try La Planta de Shiva (9b) and some other hard routes but anyway I will climb onsight as well. Maybe, I will also make a quick stop to Margalef.

How much and where do you train?
I train 6 days a week mainly at Climbing Ranch. To train comp boulders I go to other nice gyms in Slovenia or Austria.

What about school?
This is the third year of homeschooling for me and I study from home. My mum helps me with this.

Team Japan has dominated the men's Boulder World Cups for about a decade, and in 2024, they were more dominant than ever, securing all four top positions.

1. Sorato Anraku JPN 3 365
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN 2 860
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2 690
4. Sohta Amagasa JPN 2 416
5. Toby Roberts GBR 2 365
6. Lee Dohyun KOR 2 280
Complete rankings

It is worth noting that Roberts did not participate in the last event, while Dohyun, who won the previous two competitions, only competed in three events.

Natalia Grossman has made history by becoming the first to win the IFSC Boulder series four years in a row.

1. Natalia Grossman USA 2 610
2. Oceania Mackenzie AUS 2 405
3. Nakamura Mao JPN 2 262
4. Annie Sanders USA 2 105
5. Janja Garnbret SLO 2 000
Complete rankings

Notably, Natalia competed in only three of the five events, while Janja participated in just two. Since 2021, Garnbret has competed in eight Boulder World Cups, winning six and earning silver twice. In the ten Boulder World Cups and Championships where Grossman and Garnbret have faced each other, Garnbret has claimed victory nine times.

Ludivine Balbi has sent Amadeus (8c) in Sabart, uncut video. The 15-year-old did her first 8b at age 12.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I started climbing very early thanks to my parents who took me to the crag since I was young (I took my first steps in the Finestra sector in Margalef!!! 😊). When I was 8 years old, I discovered competition by chance thanks to my instructor at the time Mathieu (Gallo-Lavallee also called Mr. MA.GA.LA). I quickly managed to rank well on the local and regional circuit.

In the summer of 2021, at the U-14 French Championships I was number two. In 2022 at the French Difficulty Championship in Le Pouzin I won the title of French Champion and this gave me access to the French Team and to international competitions.

Today I share my passion for climbing between the cliff and competition. I have the chance to travel to the major spots in France, Spain, and Italy. I have already done some 8b in climbing trips and I wanted to try a harder project close to home. That's why I chose Amadeus. I am so happy to have done it in 10 days and about 25 attempts and especially before my 16th birthday (at the end of October). I wanted to thank the Block Out Toulouse club for their support and especially my coach Guillaume Mauss for his kindness and cheerfulness.

Lee Dohyun, who won in Prague last month, got the Boulder World Cup gold also in Seoul.

”I thought if Max got the top in three he would win the gold so when he got it he had won. I thought congratulations, but then my team and coaches said it was me who had won. I couldn’t understand it. I’m just really happy to win in front of my home crowd, it means a lot. It was a hard final round. All the boulders were hard for me. Very powerful and tricky moves. Very hard.”

The fifth and last Boulder World Cup took place in Seoul in Korea. 17-year-old Annie Sanders, who got her first two bronzes in the last Boulder as well Lead World cup won.

” I’m definitely still in shock right now. I wasn’t expecting this. After the second boulder I almost kind of gave up hope as a lot of people were topping that one so I was just trying to have fun for the rest of the round, and it paid off.”

Connor Herson has done the FA of Midnight Way (9a+) in Paradise Valley and The Shark 8b+ (c) trad in The Chief. The 21-year-old made his first 8a headline in 2018 when he did an 8c+, 2nd go at age 14. In the same year he repeated The Nose 8b+ MP; and was #11 in the Youth World Championship. Since then, he has evolved into one of the world's leading trad and big wall climbers. (c) Tempei Takeuchi

Can you tell us more about those two impressive first ascents?
The Shark: When I returned to Squamish, Didier offered to show me his project. I assumed I would just be trying the moves for fun, but he offered me a chance at the first ascent! I ended up sending it on my second session, grade is probably around 8b+ or 8c. The climb is pumpy, steep, and powerful, and it’s very high quality!

Midnight Way: I knew about this possible linkup last year, and it was my primary objective when I returned to Squamish this year. The line follows all the hard climbing on Spirit Quest (9a) and then climbs straight into several hard boulders. I ended up climbing spirit quest then falling higher up 3 times, and in order to send I needed to climb spirit quest and feel fresh after all the hard climbing!

On the day I sent Midnight Way, I high pointed on my first go (nearly doing it that try), then fell about halfway through spirit quest on my second attempt. On my third attempt I notice my finger was bleeding halfway through spirit quest, and it got worse and worse as I climbed higher but I still somehow made it work!

Josh Ibbertson has done Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger. The 20-year-old, who has already completed seven 9a climbs, made his first 8a headlines at the age of 10. Two years ago, he sent Rainman (9b). (c) Adri Martinez

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Whilst not initially on my agenda for my first trip to the cave, but after belaying Jorge on his send of the full rig I got psyched to give the first pitch a try.

Leo [Böe] and I worked together to find our own sequences, so it felt fitting that we were able to send on back to back attempts! (Leo as it was getting dark and myself the next morning). The crux for me was maintaining tension through the very intense right knee and then releasing this without cutting feet. It's an intricate sequence that feels very burly at the same time!

I sent on the first go of what I think was session 9, although two other of those sessions were just 1 short try each. It felt closer to 7 'full' days of effort. I'm now motivated to come back for the full line next season!

What is next?
Back home in the UK for a bit to train and surf. Then off to Red River in November!