NEWS

Ainhize Belar Barrutia sends two 9aโ€™s in Siurana
Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who three weeks ago sent her fifth 9a, has completed La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana. โ€After doing Estado critico (9a), I was looking for another project in El Pati to combine it with Finestra. It was a route Iโ€™d wanted to try since the first time I came to this wall, but the first crack didnโ€™t really motivate me, haha. When I finally tried it, I really liked it because itโ€™s an endurance route that lets you fight a lot. I was able to do it pretty quickly in the end.โ€

Three days later, the 20-year-old sent Victimes del futur (9a). โ€ A route I tried for the first time a while ago, one Iโ€™ve gone back to now and then to give a few tries when the moment came, but that Iโ€™ve always left a bit to the sideโ€ฆ These days Iโ€™ve been really motivated to close that circle, give it some solid attempts, and finally be able to say Iโ€™ve done a route on this wall that I have such a love-hate relationship with haha ๐Ÿฅด All I can say is this doesnโ€™t stoooop โค๏ธโ€๐Ÿ”ฅโค๏ธโ€๐Ÿ”ฅ Only a few days left around hereโ€ฆโ€ (c) Mar Diaz Miranda

Trym Skuggen Landmark ticks Juneru (8C)
Trym Skuggen Landmark, who last year did his first two 8B+โ€™, has completed Juneru (8C) in Albarracรญn.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I think the boulder fits me absolutly perfect, everything is about a two finger pocket/mini crimp undercling. I think undercling crimps is definetly a big strong point for me, and I have pretty small fingers so a small pocket is also good.

I got past the crux shoulder move on the last go of the 3rd session but was way to tired to do anything on the next move. That made me decide to dedicate the last session to the boulder where I made it past the crux and felt super good on my first two goes. On the first one I was blinded by the sun and couldnt see the hold, and on the second I felt super close but just missed the crimp

After that I had some bad goes and skin started to feel bad, and was almost bleeding on my right index finger. On my absolute last go before we had to leave every hold felt super bad from, but I somehow stuck the crux move. The next move felt super shit but I just got lucky and hit it perfect๐Ÿ˜…

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing most of my life, and competed since the youngest youth category, but I have also always climbed a lot outside and definitely love that part of climbing!

What is next?
I want to get some projects in the Oslo area and I also have a project in Bohuslรคn. After that I will go to Rocklands in the summer!

Lily Gurdison ticks Killer C (8c)
Lily Gurdison, who did her first 8b one year ago, has completed Killer Z (8c) in Hurricave. โ€Insanity with Amity! Pulled it out after I thought the season was over. Goes on this route gave me insane unrelenting pump that one time left my forearms toasted for a week straight. No knees๐Ÿซจโ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Clipping the chains on "Killer Z" was a total surprise and an absolute delight! I had been trying the route for the past 2.5 months, the name of the game being endurance and power endurance. It starts as a pumpy 8b, into a 7c+ section, and then you have a 7a+ boulder crux at the top, which spat me off multiple times this season. When giving redpoint attempts on this route, I have gotten the most pumped I have ever been in my life probably 3 or 4 times!

Amity Warme invited me out yesterday for a nice weather window, before that I had previously accepted that the season was over. To my utter suprise, I was able to hold it together through the pumpy steep climbing and vicious boulder at the top! It was a great day and a great first 8c!

What is your climbing background?
I've been climbing for 12 years! Most of my climbing years have been spent as a competitor in US youth and elite competitions, and now my focus has been on the outdoors for the past 2 years! I am lucky to live in Las Vegas, NV where there is so much access to outdoor climbing all year round.

Adam Ondra onsights two 8cโ€™s again
Adam Ondra has during a trip to Falegnameria onsighted Putain De Merde (8c), Janja (8c) and 2 Ottobre 1925 (8b+). In total the 33-year-old has onsighted 99 routes 8c to 9a. The runner-up is Alex Megos with some 20 onsights 8c and harder. The picture from Petr Chodura is from Saxony.

Introducing BrushScoreโ„ข: Clean Holds, Clean Community
To improve route quality and make climbing better for everyone, we are introducing BrushScoreโ„ข.

From today, access to comments on boulders and routes is linked to your brushing habits. Climbers who help keep holds clean will maintain full visibility and participation.

Clean holds. Better climbing. Stronger community.

And this is just the beginning. Weโ€™re currently building a reporting feature that will allow climbers to flag users with poor brushing habits, while standout wall citizens earn visible green badges. Because letโ€™s be honest: if you wonโ€™t clean the holds, maybe the community should know.

Happy April Fool's Day!

Charles Albert FAโ€™s Charlatan (9A) barefoot
Charles Albert, who previously has done two 8C+โ€™ barefoot, has done the first ascent of Charlatan (9A) in Fontainebleau. Eight years ago, Guillaume Tournus introduced Charles to the project. The line consists of three powerful moves, finishing with a technical undercling sequence near the top.

In November 2024, Charles came close to completing the problem but suffered a shoulder injury just before the final moves. Last Friday, after more than 100 attempts, Charles returned and delivered a historic ascent, marking a major milestone. As for the grade, Charles believes it is no easier than 9A.

Oriane Bertone has had an amazing day in Fontainebleau. First she completed L'Insoutenable Lรฉgรจretรฉ de l'รชtre (8B). โ€I tried this one about two years ago. This morning the first try was the good one ! So happy to send this king line so quickly.โ€

Later she did, Gecko (8A+). โ€Just after L'insoutenable... I am so happy to climb in the forest and to send these projects so quickly!โ€

Loic Zehani FAโ€™s Immortels (9a)
Loic Zehani, with over 50 first ascents 9a to 9b under his harness, has made the first ascent of Immortels (9a) in Orgon - Canal. (c) Lunarfox

โ€For many years my father had been searching a hard and natural route in Orgon and this is it. Almost 50 moves in a steep overhang : a super powerful first part ( The harder one ) a second part very physical and a very nice resistant third part . Almost disappointed to do it in 3 sessions because it's so cool to climb in this route ! A nice day with Olivier and my father . ***** .โ€

What is next?
I have a big project at the same crag (at least 9b). I donโ€™t have any big projects in mind at the moment because I have less time to climb (between work, validating my national route setter and routesetting for competitions) so the big project on this crag motivates me well.

What is the driving force behind all FAโ€™s? Why do you not just take the easier path repeating harder routes?
First of all, I have a job (4 days a week), and I also have a family. And I think thereโ€™s always someone who FAโ€™s a route before it becomes a classic, right? ๐Ÿ˜‰ I really enjoy this process of being the first to send a route.

Amandine Loury climbs Dรฉlirium total (8c)
Amandine Loury, who last year sent her third 8c+, has completed Dรฉlirium total (8c) in Mollans. โ€In terms of the grade, I found it hard, and I think it could be worth the 8c/c+ as indicated in the guidebook.โ€

Can you tell us more about Dรฉlirium total?
It is a very pumpy route bolted by F. Vilpini and A. Rhodes. It traverses to the right on really beautiful holds. The effort consists of completing the 50 moves Dรฉlirium trรจs pince (8b), then you reach a good restโ€”but youโ€™re still quite hanging there. From that point on, the battle beginsโ€ฆ you have to link a hard 25-move section with no rest, which on its own is almost worth 8b+.

Often, the attempts would cost me so much physically and mentally that Iโ€™d only give it one try per session. So it definitely kept me busy this winter.

Stefano Ghisolfi repeats 4-Low (8C)
Stefano Ghisolfi, who the last two weeks has sent two 8Cโ€™s, has repeated Daniel Woodsโ€™ 4-Low (8C) in Valle Bavona. (c) Sara Grippo

โ€It was a quick ascent, tried it one day with Davide Zane and with the help and beta of Checco Berardino, I almost did it in one day and then came back yesterday, fell twice at the end end finally did it.โ€ (c) Sara Grippo

When will you be back on routes again and how do you compare the routes and boulders mental game?
Iโ€™ll be back in Cรฉรผse in may for The Raststaman Vibration (9b). For now I focused more on boulders not yet at my limit, to check different areas and climb a lot. With routes I usually focus more on hard projects at my limit and the mental game is much harder. When I feel ready to try something harder on boulders I'll hope on some 8C+ or maybe even 9A. The only exception was Gioia (8C+) that was much harder and almost my limit.

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