Yuta Imaizumi, who was Top-12 in the last three Lead World Cups has made the fifth ascent of Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki. In regards the grade, he says it is at least 8C and actually harder than the 8C’s before.

Jessica Pilz, with five 8c+’ under her belt, has sent Papichulo (9a+) Oliana. At 27 years old, she has also established herself as a top competitor in Lead climbing since her World Cup debut in 2012. She won gold at the 2018 World Championships and earned a bronze medal at the Olympics this summer. The Austrian has also won the overall Lead WC for the past two consecutive years. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

”Nooo words for what happened yesterday! My first 9a+ 😭 Projecting is haaaard, what a rollercoaster of emotions in the past couple of days!! Thx Steff [Scherz] for the belay and even more for your patience!!”

Can you tell us more about the projecting and the rollercoaster emotions?
It was a bit surprising that I could send it already yesterday! It was my 6th day on the route, and my 3rd proper attempt from the ground. I had two attempts the day before but I got so pumped and tired in the second half that it didn’t feel possible very soon. I was struggling the first two days on the route because the upper part was too wet to try. On the 3rd day I mostly tried the first half of the route and my goal was to find good beta for the first two cruxes. On day 4 I could finally try all the moves to the top of the route. After day 4 I took a rest day and then I felt ready to give it tries from the ground.

Laura Rogora has, in just one session, repeated Adam Ondra’s Bombardino (9a+) in Arco. In the past two months, since winning two gold medals at the European Championship, the Italian climber has previously red pointed four 9a routes and onsighted an 8c. (c) Giulio Diener

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
I went to Bus de la stria with Stefano [Ghisolfi]. The route starts with an 8b/8b+ followed by a technical Boulder on small crimps and pockets. I did two tries to find the betas and already on the 3rd try I fell after the hardest moves because I put my foot on some soft rock. I climbed again after an hour. I was a bit more tired but I climbed more efficiently and clipped the chain.

Olivia Ogier, with two 8b+ under her belt, has done Aitzol (8c) in Margalef. ”So damn cool. I drop kneed and went left into the crux pocket, hard move into the crimp before the jump. Had a heartbreaker fall a couple days ago at the very top… it’s not over up there lol. But 10/10!!! I had a singular day of mediocre conditions in this month of monsoons and I used it well :)”

Can you tell us more about the trip to Spain?
This trip to Margalef has been a constant battle against conditions… An unprecedented amount of rain has provided us very little dry rock and lots of humidity. Aitzol hasn’t been dry for weeks. But today, the sun finally came out and route was dry enough to go to the anchors. Luckily, all I needed was the one day of good weather (before the rain comes back tomorrow) to put the pieces together and send this beautiful route! I have my eye on a couple harder routes before I leave Spain… Fingers crossed the sun comes back!

Christian Leitner, who did his first 9a at age 14, has done Napalm in the morning (9a) in Adlitzgräben. The 15-year-old Austrian has won the last three European Youth Championship/Cups he has participated in.

Can you tell us more about the two 9a’s you have repeated?
My first 9a was Martin Krpan. Before each attempt, I was very nervous and excited, so for me, the route was less of a physical challenge and more of a huge mental one. I tried the route many times and almost climbed it when I was just 14 years old, but I fell at the top. I finally completed it during a training camp with the Austrian Youth National Team.

My second 9a was Napalm in the Morning, and that was more of a spontaneous thing! At the time, the Youth World Championships were coming up, but I got sick three weeks beforehand and had a lung infection. This meant I couldn’t compete at the Youth World Championships, so I had time for outdoor climbing. I tried the route a few times and quickly figured out the individual moves. The full ascent didn’t take long, either—I only needed about 20 attempts in total. The route was also more my style.

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing since I was 3 years old. With 6 I started to climb in competitions but my focus always was outdoor climbing. At 10 I did my first 8a and 8b. Now I have more than 60 Routes that are 8a or higher. I have also been climbing international competitions for about teo years.

Eva Hammelmüller, who last month did her first 9a, has sent Zagreus (8c+) in Götterwandl. (c) Felix Mast

Could you share more details about the ascent?
Zagreus (8c/+) was bolted and climbed earlier this year by Paul Zauner. The line starts in Fortuna (8b) and adds a powerful as well as technical boulder problem before arriving in the last crux of Hades (9a). Our intention of visiting frosty Götterwandl one more time this season was to film some sequences in Hades, but we had enough time, so I gave Zagreus another try. I never expected to climb this route so quickly, as I struggled quite a bit with the moves in the boulder problem the last time I tried it. However, after checking out the holds again, I managed to pull myself together and sent it the next go!

Anak Verhoeven, who previously has sent only a handful trad climbs including an 8b, has done Greenspit (8b/+) in Valle del Orco. The Belgian climber boasts one of the best track records in both competitions and sport climbing. A minor finger injury prompted the choice of a trad and crack route.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The conditions that day weren’t great because of the humidity, but I told myself “If it is possible to do all the moves, sending is possible, too!”. Before the attempt, I consciously decided to keep constant body tension and to simply not care about destroying myself. 😄 I didn’t climb perfectly, but I fought my way through and sent. It was a nice personal reminder that things don’t need to be perfect for a send to take place. :)

Simone Mabboni has completed Flow State (8C) in Val Daone, which is a 15 moves link-up of Grizzly (8B) and Flow (8B).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After doing the two parts last year, I started trying the whole line but after 1/2 sessions I was forced to leave it aside for a while due to the bad weather. I decided to return this year with better conditions and after a couple of sessions I managed to top it out! It is definitely one of the best boulders I’ve ever tried.

Andrea Chelleris, who previously the last five weeks has onsighted a dozen routes 8a and harder, has set a new personal best by onsighting Mundo Feliz (8b+) in Villanueva del Rosario. (c) Andrea Cartas Barrera

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
It was the last route of the day. I had previously done an 8a+ onsight, tried an 8b+ and sent an 8b+ almost onsight (one big rest was common with Mangarbo) and I was a bit tired. The first pitch it’s 8a or 7c+ and I felt good on it. I could rest well at the finish of the P1 before starting the battle. The first 10 meters were good but when I got to the last quick draws I started to feel pumped. After a long battle I made two moves to the finish but I was still a bit pumped and I needed to fight a bit also to clip the chain😅.

The route he onsighted was punta tacon (8a) and the almost onsight was Queimada (8b+).

How hard was the common sequence on Queimada?
It was only a big hole almost no hands rest and three moves on complete jugs.

How hard was it up to the rest and then to the top?
I can’t really say because I tried only once. Maybe solid 8b half way up and then the last part not more then 7c+. The route is almost 40 meters.

Many would have called such an ascent as an onsight?
I call it “almost” onsight because I knew the best position to rest.