
12 November 2024
Andrea Chelleris, 15, onsights Mundo Feliz (8b+)
Andrea Chelleris, who previously the last five weeks has onsighted a dozen routes 8a and harder, has set a new personal best by onsighting Mundo Feliz (8b+) in Villanueva del Rosario. (c) Andrea Cartas Barrera
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
It was the last route of the day. I had previously done an 8a+ onsight, tried an 8b+ and sent an 8b+ almost onsight (one big rest was common with Mangarbo) and I was a bit tired. The first pitch itโs 8a or 7c+ and I felt good on it. I could rest well at the finish of the P1 before starting the battle. The first 10 meters were good but when I got to the last quick draws I started to feel pumped. After a long battle I made two moves to the finish but I was still a bit pumped and I needed to fight a bit also to clip the chain๐ .
The route he onsighted was punta tacon (8a) and the almost onsight was Queimada (8b+).
How hard was the common sequence on Queimada?
It was only a big hole almost no hands rest and three moves on complete jugs.
How hard was it up to the rest and then to the top?
I canโt really say because I tried only once. Maybe solid 8b half way up and then the last part not more then 7c+. The route is almost 40 meters.
Many would have called such an ascent as an onsight?
I call it โalmostโ onsight because I knew the best position to rest.
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
It was the last route of the day. I had previously done an 8a+ onsight, tried an 8b+ and sent an 8b+ almost onsight (one big rest was common with Mangarbo) and I was a bit tired. The first pitch itโs 8a or 7c+ and I felt good on it. I could rest well at the finish of the P1 before starting the battle. The first 10 meters were good but when I got to the last quick draws I started to feel pumped. After a long battle I made two moves to the finish but I was still a bit pumped and I needed to fight a bit also to clip the chain๐ .
The route he onsighted was punta tacon (8a) and the almost onsight was Queimada (8b+).
How hard was the common sequence on Queimada?
It was only a big hole almost no hands rest and three moves on complete jugs.
How hard was it up to the rest and then to the top?
I canโt really say because I tried only once. Maybe solid 8b half way up and then the last part not more then 7c+. The route is almost 40 meters.
Many would have called such an ascent as an onsight?
I call it โalmostโ onsight because I knew the best position to rest.
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