Noah Wheeler, who previously in 2024 has done two 8C+’, has repeated Austin Hoyt’s The Big Bad Wolf (8C) in Gunks (NY). Huge props to Austin for putting up the first 8C in the Northeast! Deciphered the sit movement with the east coast boys this summer and sent in a few today. Chossy start - I crumbled a hold on the send go - but super enjoyable movement which builds in an incredible way and culminates in a gnarly right hand satch from an unstable position. Feels like shouldery/crimpy 13 [8B] into powerful 12 [8A+] which seems to make the grade accurate.”

After 10 incredible years, it’s time for us at Vertical-Life to turn the page and focus fully on developing our digital climbing platform. As part of this transition, we’re saying goodbye to the Zlagboard—a product that has shaped our journey and connected climbers around the world.

We still have some Zlagboards left in stock, and this is your chance to grab one at a special price of €99. It’s more than a training tool—it’s a piece of Vertical-Life history.

The Zlagboard has been a huge part of our story. We’ve sold over 10,000 boards, hosted countless of Zlagboard contests, and watched climbers push their limits, from beginners to world-class athletes. For many years, the record held firm at the 02:44.35 time set by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. Last year, Günther Unterrainer raised the bar with an impressive 03:05.98!

The Zlagboard app will remain fully functional, supporting climbers to train smarter and climb harder for years to come. While this chapter ends, the Zlagboard’s legacy continues—we’re in discussions with potential partners in the climbing training industry to carry the project forward under a new name.

Finally, we’d like to share that our books will now be distributed by Panico Alpinverlag. This ensures our climbing guides remain accessible to climbers everywhere, continuing to inspire adventures for years to come.

Ready to claim one of the last Zlagboards? Don’t wait—once they’re gone, they’re gone!

Train smart, climb hard!

Melina Costanza, who last month won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has completed Direct North (8B+) in Buttermilks.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I originally went to Bishop to try The Swarm (8B), but we went to the Grandma boulder to warm up and I ended up doing all the components of Direct North. I knew I could put down the link quickly, but for some reason I had kind of an epic time on the whole line. I had a heartbreaker fall off the last move before it dumped snow for a couple days, but I stuck it out and sent the line once it cleared up. Big adversity training problem for me. Never ended up going to The Swarm the whole trip!

Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco was bolted and named by Gabriele Moroni last year. Stefano Ghisolfi got an ok to try it and last sunday he made the FA together with Gio Placci, who comments;

“Some climbing routes in Arco and in other areas are kept closed, and we don’t want to encourage this. The goal is to show that making the First Ascent doesn’t need to be a competition. By avoiding closed projects, we promote cooperation within the climbers and show greater appreciation for the bolters, who put in a lot of hard work.

The route is really sick. Start with a 7C boulder then a good rest and then a 8c+ sequence of 20 moves !”

Gabri, can you tell us more about your bolting and your take about open projects?
I bolted Tre Mou Polacche on a random day after my tries on Erebor last year. I cleaned it and made it climbable, put some fixed draws and briefly tried but never had the time to go back for some proper tries. I imagined the possibility to climb the blank wall right of the classic 7c. Unfortunately I’ve never had the time to put my hand on it until one day this fall.

Then Stefano contacted me and asked if he could try it. To be honest I wish I could have tried it a little bit more and possibly get the FA but I know my time is limited and I live theee hours away so at the end I am glad someone got interested and had fun on the route…

Han Seuran has been on a trip to Arco together with her husband Hyunbin Min where she sent Puro Dreaming (8c+). Min projected Excalibur (9b+) and Erebor (9b), and is eager to return. In 2012 he won a World Cup and in 2018 he made a comeback after four years and got two bronzes. Last year, comeback again and in Seoul this year, he made semifinals. Seuran’s best year was in 2011 when she three times made the finals.

Can you tell us more about the trip?
The main purpose of this trip was definitely to check out Excalibur, and my wife also wanted to try some more hard routes as a project, like 9a or 9a+, cause last winter she sent two 8c+’ quickly in Santa Linya.

She was interested in Puro Dreaming plus (9a) but the Underground part was completely wet due to heavy rain until last week, and even some parts of Puro Dreaming were looking impossible to climb.

Anyhow, she tried with bad conditions and she liked that it using lot of chalk on the wet holds. The holds didn’t dry out completely, but when it felt a little drier than the first day, the moves felt much easier. She finally sent it after 5 days. The next goal is to have more experience on 9a and 9a+.

We both love climbing so much, it was such a fun trip and we are planning another trip next year. We didn‘t really have a rest day, because we belay each other every other day ;-) (Like one day climb and one day belay).

And 11/11 is actually our anniversary. We first dating was 11/11/2006 and got married on 11/11/2017. It was nice to have our anniversary in the middle of the trip.

You actually started dating at age 14 and 17? Did you meet in the gym?
Yes! Man that’s really loooooong story to tell. We have same date of birth too, it’s really really special I think😆

Loic Zehani, who earlier in 2024 has sent 17 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Harder Better Faster Stronger (9b) in Orgon. (c) Lunar Fox

”Start in "La chicha"( 5 moves ) then to the right with 4 super hard movements ( more or less 8A+ FB ) , then you have another hard section ( more or less 7C FB ) . These two sections are on natural holds ( little pinchs ) on a very big overhang . Once you get there you are at the beginning of "fast and furious" a long , resistant and physical 9a . To summarize : start in "la chicha" and finish in "joli son de clarine net". Very happy to climb this because it's a massive effort on big overhang ( + 60 movements ! ) and I am really close to my limit on the first crux . The line and the movements are very beautiful and original and It's very good to climb in . One of the hardest think I have done.”

We’re excited to announce the release of the Vertical-Life Climbing Gym Gear Guide—a free magazine packed with inspiration and insights for the climbing world.

This year’s edition features:
• Photo Contest Winners showcasing the beauty and creativity of indoor climbing
• Survey Insights revealing how climbers and gym managers use digital tools
• A Gear Catalog highlighting the latest innovations for climbing gyms

You can explore the digital version for free here.
Prefer print? Stop by our office in Brixen, Italy, next time you’re near the Dolomites to pick up a copy!

Indoor Climbing: A Growing Part of the Climbing World

Indoor climbing is booming, and for many outdoor climbers, gyms have become an essential training ground. At Vertical-Life, we’ve been creating tools to support this growing community, helping gyms enhance the climbing experience for everyone.

To see what we’ve been developing, visit our newly updated Gym Management System website. From course booking and route management to challenges and memberships, our tools are designed to make gyms run smoothly and inspire climbers of all levels.

Colin Duffy, who was #4 in the Paris Olympics, has sent Echalo (8C) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). ”First of the grade for me! Did Echale (8B+) a few years back and decided to come back to give the low a shot. The first move felt improbable for most of the sesh, but after figuring out some microbeta for the starting feet it started feeling close. Eventually I was able to latch the first move and then struggle my way through Echale all the way to the top!”

The 20-year-old won the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in July and two years ago he won both disciplins in Innsbruck. In the Tokyo Olympics he was #7, however, had he not made a false start with 0.002 seconds against Alberto Gines López in Speed, he would mathematically have gotten the Olympic gold.

What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2025?
My winter goal is to knock off as many hard boulders as I can around Colorado. I’m also in school so that is my main priority over climbing at the moment. Once 2025 rolls around I’ll start directing my training towards comps and compete in the upcoming bouldering/lead World Cups!

Chris Weidner, who did his first, out of six, 8c’s at age 40, has sent Green Mile (8c+) at Jailhouse. ”There were so many opportunities for me to fall off this beast, it's hard to believe I finally didn't. 59 days over 3 seasons. What sticks with me most are the partners who made this happen - all 12 of them who belayed me at one time or another. Biggest thanks to Heather, Skyler and James, all of whom logged many many hours at the helm. Timing seemed serendipitous: I did my first 14b at 40, and now my first 14c at 50. I'm a slow roller, what can I say?”

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing mountains and granite cracks in 1988 in Washington, where I grew up, and quickly branched out to try everything I could: sport climbing, ice, aid, rope-soloing. To me at the time, being a climber meant being well-rounded in terms of skills. Over the years I've had different areas of focus: sometimes on trad and alpine rock, other times mostly sport climbing. My son was born nearly three years ago, and since then it's been easier to focus on training and sport climbing than on other disciplines, so I decided to set a goal that would be hard enough for me that success was far from assured.

What is your late bloomer recipe?
I've always seemed to lack strength and power, so I zeroed on those aspects of training. I spent more time board climbing - Tension Board and Moon Board, and also weight lifting. And this season I added more specific endurance training - basic stuff like 4 x 4 type circuits into my routine. Time on the route itself was perhaps the most valuable thing to me, learning the subtleties of 40 meters of very steep, complex terrain. Most of all, even before I could even do individual sections of the route, I had to believe there was a chance it was possible. As I learned the route more and more, confidence slowly arrived. I think confidence is ultimately the most important ingredient for a limit redpoint.

Is there a picture you can share?
Here's a selfie I took on top of the cliff one day last week when I couldn't find a partner. I ended up solo TRing the top third of the route since that's all I could realistically do solo. It's so steep that it's a pain in the ass to work alone.