30 August 2015
Too hard boulders also for boys in Arco
You would think that the route setters should have learnt their lesson after about one third in two the youngest girl categories in Arco did not even score one zone.
Out of 93 boys in A, only six managed to do more than one Top and just 32 did manage one Top. The number of boys without any score, sharing the last position, was 34.
In the end, qualifications like this turn too much into random comps and, in fact, Kai Lighter, World Youth Lead Champion did not make it to the semi, being #26. In the Junior category, World Cup winner Chongwon Chon was #6 and one competitor who has done many 8A's did not even do one zone.
The problem is that IFSC does not give instructions on what kind of difficulty level they want. The easiest solution for the zero scoring is of course just to have more zones. Imagine being 14-year-old, training hard for several months and then travel from the other side of the planet and score zero, after sitting up to 9 hours in the isolation.
IFSC must come up with a solution for this and make sure that the Lead routes are easy enough, so that everyone will be able to climb some moves and clip at least one clip.
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


