Dai Koyamada reports with an Instagram video that he has done the FA of Kaikien (8C) at Kasagi. The project started almost a year ago when he first spent two days creating a landing.

”After several days of trying and not being able to climb, I started to lose confidence, when I discovered a good sequence in the middle. This gave me great hope. And finally, yesterday, I completed it. I was in good form, which was unusual for me. The biggest change as I get older is that I have fewer good days. When I was younger, the day after a rest was usually the best. That became once a week, then once a month, and the best days came only a few times a year. But there are still a few good days. Yesterday made me realize that if I go on a good day, I can still climb difficult problems.”

The 48-year-old first made headlines in 1998 when he was #4 in a Lead World Cup. After quitting the comp circuit, he did his first 9a in 2002; the next year, he did his first 8C boulder. Over the last 20 years, he has done close to 40 8C’s, most of which have been FAs.

Stefano Ghisolfi, who previously has made the FA of eleven 9a to 9b+ in Arco, has done the FA of Escaladur (9a) in Arco. Alfredo Webber bolted it and it took Stefano some eight sessions to complete his 54th 9a or beyond. (c) Finn Stack

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying this route after I sent Excalibur (9b+). It is in the left corner of Excalibur following the arete, 15 meter long. It is overhanging and has small holds, and technical with kneebars as part of the moves, but no rest. It is continuous and pumpy at the end with a hard crux. In the beginning, we thought it was 8c+ but then we realized it is probably 9a.

The next day the 31-year-old Italian did the FA of Sit Lives (9a). ”Low start of Sid Lives (8c+), starting from the ground, adds few more moves and 2 hard clipping, one is probably the hardest clip ever.”

Could you give us more details about the new beginning and the intense clip?
The original route starts in a rock pile with 2 preclipped draws. The new one starts standing on the ground with just the very first clipped, adding 4 moves and 2 hard clips (the first two that were preclipped in the original route). For the low start you cannot start with the same preclipped cause if you fall in the start you swing and hit the wall behind, so it is necessary to clip them while climbing. The second clip is one of the hardest ever, probably around 7B+ boulder move. You can skip it but if you fall you go 100% on the ground.

William Bosi has sent Asagimadara (8C), Decided (8B+) and Hōtō (8B+) in Mizugaki. Just in the last year, the 25-year-old has sent 15 boulders 8B+ to 9A as well as 18 routes 9a to 9b+. (c) Teresa Coimbra

Can you tell us more about the trip to Japan?
I’ve been wanting to come check out the climbing in Japan for a long time and decided this year would be a good one to come. My original plan was to see a few different areas and get a real feel for all the climbing. However once I arrived at Mt Mizugaki and saw how good it was and how much rock there was, I quickly realised I wanted to stay there for the whole trip.

There are hundreds of boulders and thousands of lines! I had a few boulders in mind I really wanted to do and managed to tick through all but one, Floatin! I think Floatin was at the top of the list and I got really close but my skin just fell apart and never really healed enough to make it work unfortunately. I will have to return for it.

Asaigmadara was by far the best boulder I sent and one of the best lines I’ve ever done. The line is around 15-20 metres high in total and the hard climbing only stops almost half way up the boulder, so it’s a real mental challenge as well as physical. The hard climbing revolves around one cool heel hook, a bad pinch and lots of two finger pockets.

Two 8B+/V14 lines I managed Decided and Hoto are also amazing and I really enjoyed climbing. Both using cool right heel hooks as well. I would definitely recommend them. My three weeks trip to Mt Mizugaki was incredible and I really enjoyed my time here in Japan. Main take aways are the rock is crazy sharp!!! The grades are a bit all over the place and the thought of bear attack is scary.

David Bermudez Carbonell, who earlier in 2024 has sent four 9a's, has repeated Alex Garriga’s Cordia Maleficarum (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Tara Kerzhner

Can you tell us more about the route?
Cordia Maleficarum combines Corazón cofrade (8c) I did last year in a few tries and Malleus Maleficarum (9a+). The route has a lot of endurance with a harder move on the last parts on which I fell 6 tries in a row. Then I changed the beta for the move and I sent it. Three weekends ago I decided to try it and I was able to progress very fast.

What is your next plan?
I would like to continue trying hard routes in Cuenca and also I'm going to Margalef on the Christmas holidays

Buster Martin, who this spring sent two 9a+’, has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. Alex Megos did the FA in 2016 and two years later, Adam Ondra flashed the popular line. (c) William Barselo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route suited me well, but the biggest challenge was finding good conditions—it needs that sweet spot where it’s cold enough for the crimps but not so cold that you numb out. After falling a few times on the final move, I finally got a perfect weather window, and everything just came together.

This ascent was a reminder of how much patience and solid tactics matter when projecting. I’ve also been super inspired by friends and clients lately, which has brought a fresh energy to my climbing.

It’s been amazing to tick this iconic route, especially one that Adam Ondra famously flashed—it’s cool to share a connection with such a legendary climb. I’ve made more sacrifice in my life over the last year or so and it’s really paid off.

What kind of sacrifice are we talking about?
I’ve mostly been more focused on my climbing! I’ve done little other than train, project and climb this year. A lot of what it takes to climb hard sports routes is patience and putting the time in at the crag, waiting for conditions, finding partners, being away from home for long periods of time.

Jonathan Siegrist, with 83 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has repeated Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. ”Opening boulder and then crazy resistant style with nowhere to hide for like 30 moves straight! Very unique route and rock - awesome vision Gabri [Moroni].” (c) Fallon Rowe

What made you return to Europe and what are your winter plans?
Actually we never left 😆. Well that's not true I went to North America for 8 days in the middle of November for a team trip. Bascially after we left Ceuse we came to Italy - to Arco. I have always wanted to check this place out and I am so psyched I finally did! I've had a really hard time with the cold recently (I have very dry skin and I suffer to find good friction in the cold), but at a minimum it has been awesome to finally see a bunch of areas in Arco and I can't wait to come back next year. For now I badly need some mental and physical rest.. and some time at home / training time as I have been traveling since June.

This winter I am so psyched to get some mental and physical rest. I have a few injuries I am recovering from that I need to address and I want to feel refreshed mentally to get after some goals in '25. I'll start the heavy training sometime in January and then I will be back in Europe in March.

What are the differencies doing 9a’s at 39 compared to at 25?
Haha. Yeah it is for sure different. I actually feel stronger and better than when I was 25, and like I can still improve! The big difference is that I need more rest now, and I have to be attentive to any issues that come up in my body to prevent injury. I also have more responsibility now so climbing is not always top priority. The important lesson I have finally learned over the last 2 years is that I need to have more frequent periods of intentional training and intentional rest throughout my year. Training is hard on the body but so easy on the mind and so predictable. Outside projects are a bit easier on the body but can be very hard emotionally and painfully unpredictable with weather, etc. It's all a balance! I have big ambitions still in my climbing and if I want to continue to improve, I really have to pay attention and be open to learning and adaptation.

Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has sent Alphane (9A) in Chironico. This was the fifth repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s FA after Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, Simon Lorenzi and Jakob Schubert. This ascent marks the culmination of another impressive year of high-level achievements for the American. Just during the last six weeks, Bailey made the FA of Shaolin (9A) and repeated Ryuichi Murai's Floatin' (8C+).

The 28-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years. In 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WCs as well as sending Bibliographie (9b+). He stopped competing last year after narrowly not making it to Paris.

Seb Bouin made the FA of DNA (9c) in 2022 after spending close to 200 days on it. "It's the most challenging project I've ever done. It's the hardest route I've ever tried and climbed in my climbing career. This route marks a milestone in my climbing life."

Jun Shibanuma has, in the same session, sent Amaterasu (8C), Phenomena (8B+) and Dakine (8B+) in Hinokage. Previously in 2024, Jun has done five 8C's and interestingly, the 34-year-old Japanese did not start climbing until he joined the University.

Can you tell us more about that amazing day?
AMATERASU is located in Mt.Hiei which is one of the most beautiful Boulder in Japan, maybe in the world, too. It has 14 move from start to the lip in my beta. The middle section is so crimpy and last section is powerful and technical with pinch and heel hook. Besides the rock is granite so crimp is so sharp. It’s really hard to link it, I fell many times at last crux.

The condition was perfect in the day (little bit cold). I warmed up a lot than usual. My body moved well and I could hold the last crux stably. But my finger grew numb with cold, I was about to fall to catch the lip. That was hard struggle.

Fortunately I sent it first go, so I decided to move other projects soon. I already solved sequence of “DAKINE” and “Phenomena “. DAKINE is also needed technically hook and physical strength, it was also hard for me. On the other hand, phenomena is my favorite style, the crux hold is a pinch. I had enough confidence to send it.

It was a amazing day, I had a lot of luck and my friends inspired me a lot.

How many sessions were needed for Amaterasu?
It took 3 years and I stopped to count sessions because sometimes I tried only 2-3hours before work or too bad conditions.

What are your winter plans?
Not decided yet 💦 Amaterasu was my goal of this winter. But there are a lot of good boulders around the Hiei and Hinokage. I will try them. And end of winter, I want to check Floatin (8C+).