
Martina Demmel addresses eating disorder
Little did the climbing community know that she had been silently battling an eating disorder for four years before she even began climbing. In a long Instagram post she explains her situation. ”~addiction is giving up ONE thing for everything - recovery is giving up one thing for EVERYTHING~”(c) Jan Novak (2021)
How have climbing and the community impacted positively and negatively for your situation?
I was already deep in the eating disorder when I first started climbing but it quickly was very connected to my climbing performance. I guess overally it definitely helped me because climbing at a high level made me reflect my own behaviours more frequently, gave me access to a sports-psychologist including a whole support-system and finally made it possible to escape this cycle by talking to a teammate with the same history. But I also have to highlight what a toxic enviroment it can be by noticing lots of other climbers struggling with sth similar what almost made it feel "normal" to me and as sth necessary to achieve success. Climbing obviously is dependent on the weight but not only!!!! Over the last half year, I ONLY experienced positive effects after stopping my bulimic actions, mostly that I have endless of energy, not only for climbing but also for life!
What are your plans for 2025?
Since my recovery is already on a very good way, I've recently decided (with my therapist, my coaches & doctors) to try to qualify for the WC's and hopefully, I'm allowed to do the whole lead season. Besides that definitely some rockclimbing every now and then💃☀️!
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Climber of 2022 - Draft
8a has published the “Climber of the Year” list for the past 20 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. Please feel fr…
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Climber of 2022 - Draft
8a has published the “Climber of the Year” list for the past 20 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. Please feel fr…
8a’s Route Climbers of 2022
1. Adam Ondra - CZE The world’s best climber since 2009, which he achieved when he was only 16 years old. In 2022, he onsighted 12 routes 8b+ to 9a and did the FA of Zvěřinec (9b+), which he commented, as well as two 9b’s. 2. Sebastien BOUIN - FRA Only counting redpoint, Seb would have been #1 with…
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Martina Demmel, #43 in the Villars World Cup yesterday, has last week sent One Piece (8c) in Frankenjura. "Totally enjoyed the crux sequence on this one which d…
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