14 June 2021

Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a by Raatz and Vogt

Linus Raatz and Stephan Vogt have repeated Peter Wรผrth's Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a in Magic Woods. It is a seven-bolt extension to the boulder Never Ending Story 8B+ and also 8C has been suggested although clipping into a rope. In the picture by Vogt, he is also belaying meanwhile Raatz is climbing.

Vogt: "The End... too cheesy to be true. On the last attempt of the day when it was already pitch black, I decided to give it one more burn. Standing on the slab with a headlamp was one of the more rewarding feelings I felt in my climbing career. The key was running through part 1 and 2 in 40 seconds to escape the pump. Thank you Linus for being on the other end of the rope! It was super inspiring to see him send the day before. For sure a team ascent. Eight days over six Years.

So after climbing the 8B+ there is an ok rest. From there you clip into the rope. then you have 5 bolts to the lip of the Bruno Bloc. It is a 7B boulder in my opinion. The boulder has really polished holds and insecure body positions, very easy to slip out of. After a powerful move to the lip, there is a cool mantle and a spicy slab to finish it off. Falling on the slab would be really dangerous so after talking with the locals Marvin Rueppel and I placed two more bolts on top of the Bruno bloc right before I send the route that evening. Now no one needs to die while topping out this beautiful route."


Raatz: "The perfect line! I got obsessed with this climb for some time and now this chapter is over, this story is told. It's been a crazy ride. From pt. 1 to 1+2 to 1+2+3. Super happy, I enjoyed every single session on this climb. For me, it was very important to speed up my pace on the 8B+ boulder problem. In total, I improved from 1:15 on my send of the 8B+ boulder to 0:55 to the top jug of the boulder part when I sent the whole route. On that jug I optimized my rest position and rested for just over 2 minutes. On the send attempt, I could feel that I was about to send it, as I arrived with just a little bit more left in my forearms somehow. Earlier that day I fell on the move to the top edge. Topping out that line and standing on top of the famous "Bruno Block" felt amazing, an emotional moment for me. I'm so happy that Stephan and I opened and closed this chapter together, we wouldn't have done it alone I guess."

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