Power of now (8B+) and End of Story (8c+/8B+) by Stephan Vogt
Can you tell us more about these latest sends?
After two very intense months filled with lots of route setting and filmmaking, I decided to return to Magic Wood. A place very dear to my heart. The plan was to focus on a few climbs I always wanted to do. When climbing „Stil for Talent“ (fb8C) and „Never Ending Story 1+2+3“(9a) in 2021 I already saw this beautiful yet intimidating line going from the Jug of Never Ending Story slightly left and up to the top of the Bruno Block. In my opinion, this is the best and most logical ropeless way up, and it seems crazy that no one had climbed it yet. When I arrived here a few weeks ago I heard that Josh Cornah did the first ascent last year. I checked it out on the rope and sent it quickly after relearning the lower parts. This line has about 25+ moves so I think giving it 8c+ as a lead grade makes most sense, for it feels slightly easier than the right exit, which gets 9a. It also feels a lot easier than „Stil for Talent“ so if you were to give it a boulder grade I think 8B+ sounds fair considering that the first two parts are low end 8B+.
Two Years ago I also had a good session on „Power of Now“ in my opinion one of the best boulders in the forest. First Ascended by Giuliano Cameroni. So naturally this one was on my list as well. Pretty happy to see that my winter training with Gabriel Prange seems to have helped with becoming a more powerful climber. In my second session this trip I finally stuck the first hard move which I could not do last time. A few sessions later I found myself on top of this amazing boulder. Good trip so far. Can't wait so see what the next week will bring before returning to Germany.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B
Andrew Nimmer, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed Massive Attack (8A+), Steppenwolf (8B), Voigas (8A+), Pura Vida (8A+) and Jack's broke…
Four 8B+ ticks by Yannick Flohé in Magic Wood
Yannick Flohé, who has been Top-7 in all eight WC's he has done in 2022, has been on a quick trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+ boulder problems. In the 8…
Four 8B+ by Killian Chabrier in a week
Killian Chabrier, who one month ago did his first 9a, has been on a 19 days trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+. ”The first 13 days I did a lots of clas…
Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B
Andrew Nimmer, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed Massive Attack (8A+), Steppenwolf (8B), Voigas (8A+), Pura Vida (8A+) and Jack's broke…
Four 8B+ ticks by Yannick Flohé in Magic Wood
Yannick Flohé, who has been Top-7 in all eight WC's he has done in 2022, has been on a quick trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+ boulder problems. In the 8…
Four 8B+ by Killian Chabrier in a week
Killian Chabrier, who one month ago did his first 9a, has been on a 19 days trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+. ”The first 13 days I did a lots of clas…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…