
7 July 2023
Power of now (8B+) and End of Story (8c+/8B+) by Stephan Vogt
Stephan Vogt has done Power of now 8B+ and End of Story (8c+) in Magic Wood. The 29-year-old German has previously done two 9a's and also two 8C's. (c) Friederike Traub
Can you tell us more about these latest sends?
After two very intense months filled with lots of route setting and filmmaking, I decided to return to Magic Wood. A place very dear to my heart. The plan was to focus on a few climbs I always wanted to do. When climbing โStil for Talentโ (fb8C) and โNever Ending Story 1+2+3โ(9a) in 2021 I already saw this beautiful yet intimidating line going from the Jug of Never Ending Story slightly left and up to the top of the Bruno Block. In my opinion, this is the best and most logical ropeless way up, and it seems crazy that no one had climbed it yet. When I arrived here a few weeks ago I heard that Josh Cornah did the first ascent last year. I checked it out on the rope and sent it quickly after relearning the lower parts. This line has about 25+ moves so I think giving it 8c+ as a lead grade makes most sense, for it feels slightly easier than the right exit, which gets 9a. It also feels a lot easier than โStil for Talentโ so if you were to give it a boulder grade I think 8B+ sounds fair considering that the first two parts are low end 8B+.
Two Years ago I also had a good session on โPower of Nowโ in my opinion one of the best boulders in the forest. First Ascended by Giuliano Cameroni. So naturally this one was on my list as well. Pretty happy to see that my winter training with Gabriel Prange seems to have helped with becoming a more powerful climber. In my second session this trip I finally stuck the first hard move which I could not do last time. A few sessions later I found myself on top of this amazing boulder. Good trip so far. Can't wait so see what the next week will bring before returning to Germany.
Can you tell us more about these latest sends?
After two very intense months filled with lots of route setting and filmmaking, I decided to return to Magic Wood. A place very dear to my heart. The plan was to focus on a few climbs I always wanted to do. When climbing โStil for Talentโ (fb8C) and โNever Ending Story 1+2+3โ(9a) in 2021 I already saw this beautiful yet intimidating line going from the Jug of Never Ending Story slightly left and up to the top of the Bruno Block. In my opinion, this is the best and most logical ropeless way up, and it seems crazy that no one had climbed it yet. When I arrived here a few weeks ago I heard that Josh Cornah did the first ascent last year. I checked it out on the rope and sent it quickly after relearning the lower parts. This line has about 25+ moves so I think giving it 8c+ as a lead grade makes most sense, for it feels slightly easier than the right exit, which gets 9a. It also feels a lot easier than โStil for Talentโ so if you were to give it a boulder grade I think 8B+ sounds fair considering that the first two parts are low end 8B+.
Two Years ago I also had a good session on โPower of Nowโ in my opinion one of the best boulders in the forest. First Ascended by Giuliano Cameroni. So naturally this one was on my list as well. Pretty happy to see that my winter training with Gabriel Prange seems to have helped with becoming a more powerful climber. In my second session this trip I finally stuck the first hard move which I could not do last time. A few sessions later I found myself on top of this amazing boulder. Good trip so far. Can't wait so see what the next week will bring before returning to Germany.
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