6 January 2022

Two hot 8b OS and a freezing 8b+ by Eva Hammelmรผller

Eva Hammelmรผller has onsighted Zona 0 (8b) and Sexo sentido (8b) in Siurana. This was the 21-year-old's first two 8b onsights and including also four 8a+ and some 8a onsights, she is #2 in the female onsight ranking game. "It was way too hot to climb in the sun, and also in the shade it was very warm for my taste๐Ÿ™ˆ."

A couple of weeks earlier, she had done an equally impressive ascent in a contrast temperature, Get Hungry (8b+) in Martinswand. "Coldest ascent I have ever done; -2 degrees, no sun, and some wind. Thanks for the good vibes boyz!"

How was it possible to make a route is such freezing conditions?
At first, we thought that it was not possible at all to climb, because our fingers were numb within three moves. The friction was pretty good, but that doesnโ€™t help when you canโ€™t feel the holds๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜‹ When I sent the route, I climbed it until the last move of the crux, came down, waited for ten minutes, and then my fingers were warm enough to climb it till the end๐Ÿคฉ.

Did you do any special trick to keep warm? What clothing did you wear?
We tried hot stones from a fire, but the resting positions were so poor that I couldnโ€˜t keep my hands in the chalk bag long enough, so I decided not to use them๐Ÿ˜‰. 2 trousers, 4 long sleeves, a buff and a headband๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ Felt like I couldnโ€™t move but it worked out๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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