6 January 2022
Two hot 8b OS and a freezing 8b+ by Eva Hammelmรผller
Eva Hammelmรผller has onsighted Zona 0 (8b) and Sexo sentido (8b) in Siurana. This was the 21-year-old's first two 8b onsights and including also four 8a+ and some 8a onsights, she is #2 in the female onsight ranking game. "It was way too hot to climb in the sun, and also in the shade it was very warm for my taste๐."
A couple of weeks earlier, she had done an equally impressive ascent in a contrast temperature, Get Hungry (8b+) in Martinswand. "Coldest ascent I have ever done; -2 degrees, no sun, and some wind. Thanks for the good vibes boyz!"
How was it possible to make a route is such freezing conditions?
At first, we thought that it was not possible at all to climb, because our fingers were numb within three moves. The friction was pretty good, but that doesnโt help when you canโt feel the holds๐ ๐ When I sent the route, I climbed it until the last move of the crux, came down, waited for ten minutes, and then my fingers were warm enough to climb it till the end๐คฉ.
Did you do any special trick to keep warm? What clothing did you wear?
We tried hot stones from a fire, but the resting positions were so poor that I couldnโt keep my hands in the chalk bag long enough, so I decided not to use them๐. 2 trousers, 4 long sleeves, a buff and a headband๐๐ Felt like I couldnโt move but it worked out๐๐
A couple of weeks earlier, she had done an equally impressive ascent in a contrast temperature, Get Hungry (8b+) in Martinswand. "Coldest ascent I have ever done; -2 degrees, no sun, and some wind. Thanks for the good vibes boyz!"
How was it possible to make a route is such freezing conditions?
At first, we thought that it was not possible at all to climb, because our fingers were numb within three moves. The friction was pretty good, but that doesnโt help when you canโt feel the holds๐ ๐ When I sent the route, I climbed it until the last move of the crux, came down, waited for ten minutes, and then my fingers were warm enough to climb it till the end๐คฉ.
Did you do any special trick to keep warm? What clothing did you wear?
We tried hot stones from a fire, but the resting positions were so poor that I couldnโt keep my hands in the chalk bag long enough, so I decided not to use them๐. 2 trousers, 4 long sleeves, a buff and a headband๐๐ Felt like I couldnโt move but it worked out๐๐
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