Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)

24 November 2022

Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 meters masterpiece and to tick my second 9a. It was such a big fight all the way to the top😮‍💨 The route was done in 6 tries, 3 days"

Can you tell us more about your trip and the ascent?
I went to Siurana for 9 days and my plan was just to check the area and eventually find a project. On my first go on Estado Critico I couldn’t make it past the first crux (the dynamic move to the small crimp). On my second go, I passed the crux but still didn’t make it to the top but made some links (I struggled a lot on the upper part). I made it to the top on my third go and found my final beta so that meant it was just a matter of time until I would clip the chains (which I did surprisingly fast and unexpectedly on my 6th try). I am so happy with this one and I will try to push myself to the limits in the future.

What else have you been doing in the autumn and what is the winter plan?
This autumn I was mostly training in the gym after the Youth World Championships in Dallas and I’ve also done the FA of L'integral du decadance (8B) in Romania. Now I will train hard with my coach, Robert Cohn, for the upcoming competitional season.

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