27 September 2022
The Bizarre Ride 8A+ by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, #2 in the World Championship in 2021, has done The bizarre Ride (8A+) in Magic Wood. "New beta for weak and short people."
So, you found some new short person beta for Bizarre Ride?
I went back to Magic for just one day to send Bizarre Ride and Jack's Broken Heart, but I managed to only send the first one, which, unlike for most other climbers, it felt easier than Jack (for me). I found a beta that suits me better with a foot jam and a right heel that make the boulder more technical.
What's coming up next for you?
The next weekends I will compete in the Italian Championships, after that I hope to come back to Ticino to work on Heritage (8B+) and send Delusion of grandeur (8A+).
Is your long-term goal, Paris 2024?
Yes of course, in fact, this season I worked more on lead than in the last years.
So, you found some new short person beta for Bizarre Ride?
I went back to Magic for just one day to send Bizarre Ride and Jack's Broken Heart, but I managed to only send the first one, which, unlike for most other climbers, it felt easier than Jack (for me). I found a beta that suits me better with a foot jam and a right heel that make the boulder more technical.
What's coming up next for you?
The next weekends I will compete in the Italian Championships, after that I hope to come back to Ticino to work on Heritage (8B+) and send Delusion of grandeur (8A+).
Is your long-term goal, Paris 2024?
Yes of course, in fact, this season I worked more on lead than in the last years.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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27 August 2022
Four 8As by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, who recently was #9 in both Lead and Boulder in the Euro Championship, has done four 8As while on a three day trip to Silvretta.
"After the Eโฆ
8 June 2022
Tigris Sit 8B+ by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio reports on Insta that she has done Tigris sit (8B+) in Magic Wood. "I believe today was my second day trying it from the low, but I did the stand stโฆ
Michaela Kiersch has had a great day in Magic Wood, sending The bizarre Ride (8A+), Octopussy (8A) and The bomb is explosion (8A). (c) Susannah AndersโBizarre โฆ
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27 August 2022
Four 8As by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, who recently was #9 in both Lead and Boulder in the Euro Championship, has done four 8As while on a three day trip to Silvretta.
"After the Eโฆ
8 June 2022
Tigris Sit 8B+ by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio reports on Insta that she has done Tigris sit (8B+) in Magic Wood. "I believe today was my second day trying it from the low, but I did the stand stโฆ
Michaela Kiersch has had a great day in Magic Wood, sending The bizarre Ride (8A+), Octopussy (8A) and The bomb is explosion (8A). (c) Susannah AndersโBizarre โฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ