16 October 2021
Solitary daze 8C FA by Clรฉment Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has done the FA of Solitary daze 8C in Fionnay, which is a direct finnish to an 8A+. The French has previously done 18 boulders 8B+ and harder. (c) Marine Thevenet
"The problem only shares the first move with the 8A+, then it goes straight instead of traversing right to the arete. It took me about 8 days I think. I managed to do the first section in 3-4 days (but I wasn't able to do it more than 3 times per session) and I thought I could do the problem. But I was wrong. The real crux, in the end, was the last move. I tried a lot of different things but my first idea was eventually the right one for me. I used a left heel hook that was quite a low percentage but worked pretty well when it didn't slip. It's a good one I think. The holds and movements are amazing, I had a lot of fun trying it!"
"The problem only shares the first move with the 8A+, then it goes straight instead of traversing right to the arete. It took me about 8 days I think. I managed to do the first section in 3-4 days (but I wasn't able to do it more than 3 times per session) and I thought I could do the problem. But I was wrong. The real crux, in the end, was the last move. I tried a lot of different things but my first idea was eventually the right one for me. I used a left heel hook that was quite a low percentage but worked pretty well when it didn't slip. It's a good one I think. The holds and movements are amazing, I had a lot of fun trying it!"
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