Laura Rogora ticks Tre Mou Polacche (9a)

Laura Rogora, with ten 9a’s under her belt just the six last months, has repeated Gio Placci’s Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. The 23-year-old climbed her first 9a at age 14 and has since completed around 40 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder—an exceptional achievement among female climbers. The Italian athlete has also been a strong competitor, winning two World Cups and claiming gold medals in both Lead and Combined at last year’s European Championship. (c) Nicollo Pieri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route for the first time in January, but it was extremely cold, and I couldn't really try it properly. However, I understood that it was a cool line, so I wanted to come back.

Ten days ago, I tried it again and figured out the moves. I came back last Sunday, and after improving the sequences, I made a promising attempt, falling on the last hard move.

Yesterday, I had all the beta in mind, and on my first try, I made it to the chain. The route is divided into two hard sections, separated by a good rest. The second section is really cool and complex, with a lot of options.