Sam Weir completes REM 8C+
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
You know people are always super quick to say after one downgrade that’s the grade of something. This thing is hard! REM is a crimp masterpiece. Hard 8C or low 8C+. I think Giuliano gave the correct grade. It needs crazy perfect sticky damp conditions and I got them. The Boulder was soaked when I arrived and I think when it dried just the residual humidity on the rock made it sticky! Physically, it's not the hardest move I’ve done on crimps, but the fact that the crux is the last move makes it hard!!! It turns an 8A move into an 8B move with all the factors involved. The temperature, humidity, wind, and skin all need to line up perfectly when arriving to the 5mm crimp. You get 2/3 goes once every once a week... Still two grades harder than Dreamtime for me which I did in a few sessions ... Time will tell. But for sure my hardest ascent to date! Heading to Bishop or Vegas in February to visit my family so let’s see how Sleepwalker or Lucid Dreaming compares 😎
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Francesco Berardino ticks three 8C+'s in two weeks
Francesco Berardino reports on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) High Video & Media Producti…
Shawn Raboutou doing the FA of Story of 3 Worlds 8C+
In 2005, David Graham made the FA of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. The name reflected the new inflated grades of that time and Dave made a statement that pretty much stopped the inflation and later many hard-core boulders were actually downgraded to fit the "new 8C standard". In the video…
Yannick Flohé does the FA of Return of the Dreamtime 8C+
Two weeks ago, Yannick Flohé made the FA of Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) in Cresciano. "Start like Dreamtime but go right after the Dyno and finish on Somnolence (8B)." This has been an open project for many years and links 8B/+ into 8B.
Francesco Berardino ticks three 8C+'s in two weeks
Francesco Berardino reports on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) High Video & Media Producti…
Shawn Raboutou doing the FA of Story of 3 Worlds 8C+
In 2005, David Graham made the FA of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. The name reflected the new inflated grades of that time and Dave made a statement that pretty much stopped the inflation and later many hard-core boulders were actually downgraded to fit the "new 8C standard". In the video…
Yannick Flohé does the FA of Return of the Dreamtime 8C+
Two weeks ago, Yannick Flohé made the FA of Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) in Cresciano. "Start like Dreamtime but go right after the Dyno and finish on Somnolence (8B)." This has been an open project for many years and links 8B/+ into 8B.
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…