Francesco Berardino ticks three 8C+'s in two weeks

Francesco Berardino reports on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) High Video & Media Production

"I tried it a lot with Dave Graham when he did the FA last year but his kneebar solution was impossible for me. Giul [Cameroni] found a blind foot which makes it easier for me."

After completing Celestite, the 20-year-old went to Innsbruck for ten days and did multiple double session days on the spray wall with friends. Three days ago, he repeated Giuliano Cameroni's REM (8C+) and yesterday he sent Yannick Flohe's Return of the Dreamtime (8C+), both in Cresciano.

Of the three 8C+'s you just did, which one do you find the most challenging?
REM is the hardest one for me. You need to be super precise on very sharp crimps. I tried it a lot last year but after Innsbruck, I felt light and could do it in the first session. The other two are easier and for me possibly hard 8C's. I also did some replica training of Return... and that might reflect my feelings. All three boulders are super good.

How many 8C and harder have you done now?
I do not know. I do not keep track. My first was The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) but this is probably 8B+ due to new knee bar beta. Grades are not important for me and I still say The Story was my first 8C as I climbed it in the 8C style.

Are you climbing full time now?
I have been a full-time climber since I finished school like 1.5 years ago. Last autumn I spent a couple of months with Dave and Giul and we just climbed and this is what I want to do. I do not work and my parents help me out with gas etc. I get some free climbing gear but I do not have any sponsors. I just want to climb. My hero is Bruce Lee, "Be like water, flawless and shape less."

Have you lined up a new project for yourself?
I would like to repeat Shawn's [Raboutou] The Story of the Three Worlds [8C+].