Nordic Marathon 130m 9b/+ FA by Seb Bouin

25 July 2022

Sebastien Bouin has done the FA of the 130m Nordic Marathon 9b/+ in Flatanger. It starts with Nordic Plumber (8c) and continues into Thor's Hammer 2 (9a+) followed by a 50m easier pitch on the vertical wall above the of the amazing cave. He has previously said on Insta that there is an alternative 9c link-up starting via Move (9b/+). (c) Marco Müller

“When Adam told me about his project to cross over the cave, and go from the ground to the summit, I was immediately amazed by this idea. The main goal of my trip was to check out this monster link-up. The idea was big, really big. But it's definitely the kind of challenge which attracts me. The bigger it is, the more motivated I am.

As I explained in my Instagram post last week, there are three possible starting routes for this link-up, each offering a different grade. Starting with either:
Nordic Plumber 8c, Or Thor's Hammer 9a, Or Move 9b/+

Whatever the start, it is then followed by a cruxy 9a+ (Pitch 2 of Thor’s Hammer), with a repoint crux at the end (at 80m). My ultimate goal would be to do it by the hardest possible combination: Move. Previously I have already made four trips to Flatanger to do Move (9b/+). Imagine starting from this one and finishing by a cruxy 9a+. Wow!

However, I knew this would be too hard for a single trip. So first I decided to start from the easiest line (Nordic Plumber 8c) in order to get an idea of the challenge, and to be psychologically ready for the end when I start trying the harder version. After first working and sending the second (9a+) section by jumarring into it, I then started trying from the ground, trying to link into it from Nordic Plumber. It changed so much the end. Coming into the 9a+, with my arms already so pumped in the last crimpy crux after 80m of climbing was insane. I was falling there a few times. And then falling on the previous cruxes as well.

The sheer size of the route makes it hard mentally. You can have one go every two days. It's so much climbing, in one intense burst that you simply can't give two goes in a day. Then if you want to be as fresh as possible, you need a rest day in between. So it was quite hard psychologically to only give it one burn every two days. The pressure felt so high in this last crux. The rope drag was also insane. Even if I had already switched ropes once during the route - I had to untie my knot and free-solo the last 5/10 meters (really easy climbing)."

20  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

8 August 2022

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change (9b+) in Flatanger. (c) Marco Müller Adam Ondra established the 55m route in 2012 as the first 9b+ in…

Change P1 9a+ by Alex Rohr

15 August 2022

Change P1 9a+ by Alex Rohr

Alexander Rohr, who has previously done ten routes 9a and harder, has done Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, thinking it deserves a slash upgrade. (c) John Thornton…

EDITORIAL

4 August 2022

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

RELATED

Thor’s Hammer 2 (9a+) by Seb Bouin

15 July 2022

Thor’s Hammer 2 (9a+) by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Thor's Hammer 2 (9a+) in Flatanger. It starts by jumaring to the anchor of T…

Change P2 9a by Seb Bouin

3 August 2022

Change P2 9a by Seb Bouin

Sebastein Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change P2 9a in Flatanger. He explains that Adam Ondra's Change (9b+) can be divided into two pitches, 9a+ and…

Iron Curtain 9a+ (b) by Seb Bouin

11 July 2022

Iron Curtain 9a+ (b) by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s, from 2013, Iron Curtain (9b) in Flatanger. The 29-year-old has published the full story on Insta, say…