Grade reflections from Bouin changing history?

EDITORIAL

19 August 2022

Sebastien Bouin has the last month done four routes 9a+ or harder in Flatanger, including the 130m long Nordic Marathon and Adam Ondra's Change (9b+) from 2012. Three years ago he repeated Ondra's Move (9b) from 2013. (c) Marco Müller

Seb, who is honest and outspoken about grades, has published more reflections on Insta, giving credits to Adam who did not use knee pads doing the FAs.

"I did the First Ascent (of Nordic Marathon) during this recent trip (before sending Change). I proposed the grade 9b/+. This route is 100% my climbing style. Still, it was hard to give a grade for such a long route. So, to compare these three routes. I will take into consideration, the time, climbing style, and feelings on the process and send."

Interestingly, Seb thinks that Move is the hardest and suggests a personal upgrade to 9b+ at the same time he thinks Change was 9b/+ for him due to the use of knee pads. In other words, it might be that in the history books, La Dura dura (9b+), from 2013, will be considered the first 9b+ in the world as Adam did the FA of it six months before putting up Move.
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