4 September 2024

Updated: Alex Megos does Move 9b/+

Alex Megos, who two weeks ago did Change (9b+) in just five sessions, reports on Instagram that he has completed Move (9b) in Flatanger. Megos suggests 9b/+ as also Seb Bouin did, doing the second ascent in 2019. On the same day, Alex also sent Illusionist (9a). (c) Henning Wang

"I climbed both routes with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to @adam.ondra for making the FA's of those routes without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿผ. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion."

What was the key for the send and how many sessions were needed?
This took 9 sessions. I had a very good day on the route on day 3, climbing all the hard part, starting almost from the ground. That was a little unexpected but suddenly I knew I could do it. But I also stopped refining my beta for a little bit. I'm the end I think the key to sending was to refine the beta a little more and to learn how to recover on the shake outs.
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